Pietta Cabella's 1851 Navy

You don't use a set screw in the arbor to set arbor depth. It's used as a bearing surface for the wedge.

You can. I've seen it posted as a fix for a short arbor before. Never heard of anybody using one for a bearing surface for the wedge, don't really see why you would need one for that.:confused:
 
Hey Hawg,
Well, Im sure it could be done like that but I dont think it would hold up .Steel plug / washer is better. The use of the set screw for a bearing comes in handy because when the cylinder is short and you want the tolerances that Im after, the wedge holeends up swallowing much of the wedge. To tighten the space up, the set screw can be tightened and the wedge can basicly stay in one place regardless of the wear during the life of the gun. This is the technique that I use and I maintain a .002 or less gap.
 
So basically you're using a set screw to force the barrel into a position to give you a tighter gap? I'd prefer a gap closer to .006 but most of mine come with a .003 gap.
 
You can look at it that way. The gap is defined by the arbor bottoming out in the barrel assy. I prefer that being a solid and perm. fix. When getting the tol. that I want, you have to "over compensate " , ending up with a longer than needed arbor (just by a little). Then by taking off material from the front of the arbor, you arive at the desired gap. This allows the wedge key hole to elongate some ( .001-.002 at the most). Thats enough to allow the wedge to go in much further than the "like new" position. So, I close the front bearing space down with a big set screw. Its the arbor /barrel rationship that makes up the intended gap. If you pound a wedge in my set up, you can't close the gap. In a stock gun you will lock it up. Some of the Peiettas I've worked on actually have a long arbor and don't need the spacer. I give everyone the ability to keep the wedge in the position they want.
I have many customers that have fired 60, 70, 80 shots (They all will) with no binding whatsoever. This is because of the .002-.0025 gap that I set. If "stuff" can't get out , it can't get between the arbor and cyl. and cause it to bind. The bigger the gap, the more the crap!
Another reason for the close tol. is it allows for more precise tuning. The moving forward of the cyl. changes the timing /geometry and precision . As in any fine tuned device a tolerance has to be maintained and the closer they are, the longer the device will last.

Most of the open tops I've seen dont really have a defined gap, you can close them down and lock up the cyl. If it's too loose, it will damage the wedge and the key hole ( with each shot). That's why I prefer a tight fitting wedge as well. You shouldn't have to break down the gun and clean it while at the range. Breaking it down should be done when you're finished.
 
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My phone wont let me move down to edit so gotta do a new post.

Anyway, the last part of my post was about being able to lock down the cyls. of most new open tops by driving the wedge in too far and that a loose wedge will cause damage.
 
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