Well - on the casehardening issue, it may be 'fake' as you say, but (and that is to indicate a real point of differentiation) I have used breakfree (as one gentleman describes), rem-oil, Cabelas BP Solvent, and just about every other solvent, oil and cleaner that I ran into on the gun and haven't affected the case hardening at all.
It would surprise me if the casehardening were an applique, as easy as it is to do, even under production conditions. It would seem to me to be more difficult to apply a finish than to actually caseharden the frame to my way of thinking.
Not saying that someone can't wear off casehardening - I have worn the casehardening off of parts that I have actually done bone hardening on myself - not all that easy, but it can be done. I did a period Hall flintlock replica and wore the casing off of the lock assembly over a period of about a year using only soap, hot water, a dash of simple green and a stainless steel brush... and a little elbow grease.
It would surprise me if the casehardening were an applique, as easy as it is to do, even under production conditions. It would seem to me to be more difficult to apply a finish than to actually caseharden the frame to my way of thinking.
Not saying that someone can't wear off casehardening - I have worn the casehardening off of parts that I have actually done bone hardening on myself - not all that easy, but it can be done. I did a period Hall flintlock replica and wore the casing off of the lock assembly over a period of about a year using only soap, hot water, a dash of simple green and a stainless steel brush... and a little elbow grease.