Pietta 1858 NMA question

Using a straight edge, the cylinder notches are not off set.

My cylinder notch is .135"
New cylinder notch is .155"

So is this just an older Pietta ?

Did someone take a newer Pietta and modified it ?

Just an observation, but my cylinder mouth is not chamfered and the two new cylinders are.

When I first got this Pietta, I fired one handed at 20yds using a Pyro P 30gr pellet and .454" balls.
All 6 shots touched each other.

Thanks everyone for your input.

Looks like I will have to get me a new Pietta 1858 to go along with my spare cylinders:D

Only a few months into cap and ball and have an unknown Pietta 1858 New Army, an Uberti Colt Walker, a Ruger Old Army and soon to be newer Pietta 1858:)

Clarence
 
rem 1858

If it shoots that well, I don't think you need to worry about what it is, or how old it is. Apparently, the previous owner knew what he was doing.

It's time to move on to bigger and better questions, now. Such as where to find a new frame for those poor homeless cylinders. :D
 
When I looked into having gas rings installed on my Uberti Remingtons the smith said they drill out a short recess in the front of the cylinder where the pin enters and insert the ring that sticks out beyond the cylinder face. Then he said they machine away some of the frame under the barrel to allow the gas ring to fit. Not a whole lot of work like setting the barrel back and machining the cylinder shorter. The gun under discussion may well be one of those extensively modified guns for N/SSA competition built for accuracy.
 
I ordered a new cylinder for my Pietta stainless 1858 and it also had the wider notches, really kind of a shame. If anyone out there has an extra older cylinder for a Pietta, stainless or blue, and needs a newer cylinder I hereby propose a swap.
 
Thanks for the info :)

So to get this straight...
What I have is a 1991 Pietta that someone reworked the cylinder to produce a gas ring and machined the barrel to set it back and then reblued it all for competition purposes ?

Neat :D

I will not mess with it, just shoot it.

Clarence
 
Took the 1858 apart this afternoon cause the cylinder latch was messed up.

Found the little machined button on the hammer is worn out and the cylinder latch slips past it and will not hold in place.

I have the parts kit from Cabelas.

Will need to machine all the parts to get her timed correctly.

I have reworked some DA's in the past, but will be my first SA.
My next project :)

Oh, mykeal;
You mentioned that it is a parts gun cause none of the numbers match.
Well, after stripping it down completely today I found something interesting.

At the bottom of the grip on the outside has ser# 127494
The rear of the cylinder has 494
The grips have 494

With the grips off a stamping #PF0262 on the frame next to the hammer spring.
On the bottom of the barrel 262
Inside the brass trigger guard 262

Clarence
 
Very unusual for the cam on the hammer to "wear" out. It may have been oversmithed. If indeed that is the problem I'd suggest just dropping in the new hammer from the parts kit and trying it before I started replacing other parts. Just a suggestion.
 
Hmm. This is 494?
457.jpg
 
Denster;

If you saw what I saw when I took it apart, you would understand.

All of the parts look to be original with a lot of wear.
I think this gun has seen a lot of action in its 20 years.

Installed the new hammer with the old cylinder latch and it works.

Thing is the hammer hooks for half cock and full cock on the new hammer have to be machined a lot.

It will go to half cock at 3/4 travel of the hammer.
It will not go to full cock at all.

So I decided that I will just install all of the new parts and take my time to get everything just right.

Nice project for me in my spare time.

I will be shooting the ROA for awhile now :D

I may post some photos of the old internal parts.

Clarence
 
Just an observation. The hammer cam does not appear appreciably worn however the bolt (cylinder lock) is shot.
 
denster

I know that it appears that way...
But, with the new hammer it works.

The cam is worn just thin enough that it starts to lift the cylinder lock and slips off.

A better picture would show the difference in the thickness of the cam.

I could probably get it to work again with some love and care, but it would eventually do the same thing again.

Time to set it up to go another 20 years I am afraid, but not.

Clarence
 
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