Percussion cap misfires

#10 Remingtons

Those of us around here that shoot a lot, weekly cowboy matches with c & b guns as main match pistols, use #10 Remingtons to the man. We also replace all nipples except Ruger with TRESO nipples before ever firing the guns. This combination will solve most of the cap problems you may encounter. Sometimes, but not always, Ruger nipples will give error free service. If they don't then go to TRESOs and never look back. About 450 shots fired thru my Pietta 1860 Armys since the first of the year without a "misfire" or cap debris problem.
 
Quote Noz
Those of us around here that shoot a lot, weekly cowboy matches with c & b guns as main match pistols, use #10 Remingtons to the man. We also replace all nipples except Ruger with TRESO nipples before ever firing the guns. This combination will solve most of the cap problems you may encounter. Sometimes, but not always, Ruger nipples will give error free service. If they don't then go to TRESOs and never look back. About 450 shots fired thru my Pietta 1860 Armys since the first of the year without a "misfire" or cap debris problem.
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+1

FM
 
My final report I filed yesterday on another forum on this topic.

Today I shot 60 rounds of C&B through my ROA. 30 of the rounds were fired using Remington #10 percussion caps. The other 30 rounds were fired using Remington #11 percussion caps. All 60 caps denotated on first impact without problem. The #10 caps slide on easily and could be seen to bottom out at the nipple hex nut. The #11 caps also went on easily and had a slightly better cinching feel to them but stopped short of hitting the hex nut. This of course makes sense since my #11's are shorter than my #10's. Out of the thirty #10's fired I noted there were several instances where these caps had a tendency stay on the nipple after firing rather than completely fall out and as the cylinder rotated they'd sometimes get a little wedged. If I had more consciously held the revolver up and pointing a little to the right as I cocked the hammer they may have fallen out better. I'll try that technique next time. The #11's seemed to fall out on their own without problem and didn't cause any jamming problems. Probably because they are shorter.

Anyhow, in the end it seems that both batches of Remington #10's and #11's work fine. If Gander Mountain has both #10's and #11's in stock I'd give a slight edge to the #11's and go with them. If all they had was #10's I'd buy them with confidence that they'd go "pop" on first impact. With the problems I had with the Winchester #11 Magnum caps I would probably try to avoid them if given the choice.

So it seems that the Ruger Old Army is correct when they say: "The suggested cap size for the Old Army revolver is No. 10 or No. 11 (U.S.) or equivalent."

Page 12: Ruger Old Army Instruction Manual
 
Now thats the way to test caps and come up with a real life conclusion on how they will work....to see if what is said is the truth ...or myth ......put the calibers away and take the caps to the range ....tried and true . Caps not falling of in peices can be a big plus when shooting the Colt type revolvers ..
Ask any Colt shooter that has had a cap fragment ruin his day .
 
Ruger Old army and Remington Percussion caps

Wanted to pass along my experience. I have been using Remington number 10 percussion caps on my Ruger old army since I purchased it. Recently I could not find Reming to I purchased CCI number 10 caps. They don't fit! I kind of forced 6 caps on the nipples and against my better judgement started pulling the trigger. I went through all 6 cylinders and none fired. I then continued through the cylinder again and they all fired. It took the first rap with the hammer to seat the caps. After reading posts here I will definately find some Remingtin number 10s - I never had a problem or a misfire with the Remington caps.
 
I use a push stick to seat all caps.
Fingers doesn't but he has an unique wrist twist that he does when he seats his caps with his capper.
I have watched him many times and cannot duplicate it, thus the push stick.
 
ClemBert-- Drop by Buffalo Bills on Mills/17-92 in Orlando
and speak with Jim. They have your CCI caps plus a bunch
of other stuff. It is pretty much a BP store.

Although, I transfer other guns via their FFL.

They have a web site.

.02 David :)
 
Well, that's just great... I've read all of the above and then some. I am having the same problem. Small town in Wyoming, only have CCI caps. Have replaced the nipples with slix-shot. [$36.00 & $7.70 shipping] Still needs the second hammer fall. (most of the time) when you think that this is the first hammer fall and it will not fire....BOOM..."muzzle control" no harm.
 
All I can tell you is make sure they're fully seated. If they won't fully seat with a push stick find out why.
 
Had a situation when all I had was #10 CCIs. What I did to each cap was place it a pine board and make a slit on one side with an Exacto knife. This allowed the cap to spread a little when pressed on the nipple with a dowel.
 
Yep, the hammer has to go through a lot of "stuff" before it gets to the cap. At that point, it's supposed to have the ability to hit the cap with enough force to initiate ignition!! I've settled on a 4 lb. hammer draw as the min. for competition revolvers, Walkers/Dragoons can get away with mid 3lb. hammer draws because of the extra inertia in the larger hammer!!

So, if you get rid of all the "stuff" (my job) you can get 100% ignition with easily manageable hammer draws!! So, there ya go . . . .

Mike
 
rumjump said:
Well, that's just great... I've read all of the above and then some. I am having the same problem. Small town in Wyoming, only have CCI caps. Have replaced the nipples with slix-shot. [$36.00 & $7.70 shipping] Still needs the second hammer fall. (most of the time) when you think that this is the first hammer fall and it will not fire....BOOM..."muzzle control" no harm.
Click to expand...
Check the cap fit. Your cones are too large apparently, for the cci’s. Chuck one of the nipples in the drill press and gently apply a file to the tapered cone. Check often until the cap slides home with an audible sigh... (not really a sigh but y get the idea.) if the caps fit and the mainspring is original strength, there’s really nothing else for the gun to do but fire!
 
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