Typing Paper
I have a .375" dowel tapered and rounded to fit my Uberti's chambers and marked for depth. I use coated typing paper, cut to rolling paper size. I don't glue any ends. I place the dowel in the center of the paper and pull both the ends up to the depth mark.
Using white glue, I glue the edges together length-wise up the dowel, doing a military style crease at the bottom of the paper, forming an enclosed tube... the open neck of which is .380" due to the taper (same as the round ball and conicals I use).
With this setup, I don't have to worry about misfires as there is only 1 layer of paper (and no glue) for the cap to blow thru. I load powder, some grits, a wax wad and slowly work a waxed .380 ball or conical into the tube to finish it off. The round ball obviously goes in easier than the conical, as the air escapes the tube more easily around a ball versus the waxed grooves of the conical.
The typing paper is a bit stronger than rolling papers and can take a bit more force to load than the thinner rolling paper. It burns as quickly as paper nitrated with stump remover, so that becomes an unnecessary chore.
This makes for a nice, tightly packed round (similar to a brass cartridge) and easily loaded without the worry of tearing or spilling.