+P recoil, .38 SPL

I also agree with above, it you're really tired enough that your form and technique are fading, it might be better to just end on a good note and save the rest of your ammo for the next trip.

Now the other side of that, if pushing through when you're tired you really have to concentrate to keep technique and form up to par. That can be as good thing because you are making progress by increasing endurance. That's like the idea behind doing free throws right after to run a bunch of windsprints at basketball practice. Because in a game, you will not be fresh and unwinded....you will be hot, tired, legs shaky, breathing hard....so it was making us concentrate through the tiredness (word?) so that we shot our freethrows well and made them count.

Or you can also bring up the point that will you really be needing to shoot when you're tired and flustered? Could be yes, could be no.
 
THANKS for the sound advice, particularly on the fatigue factor. I'm still a neophyte, so I welcome best practices and tips you can share - anything that will make me a safer and more proficient shooter.

I was hoping to make it to the range today, but it became one of those renovation Sundays. I have a day off tomorrow, so schedule permitting I'll have a chance to try out the +Ps and a few hydrashoks. Stay tuned!
 
38 Special vs 357 Mag vs 357 Rem Max...

Having a revolver chambered in 357 is a good idea even if you don't plan to shoot 357 Magnum because they should hold up under lots of plus P shooting. I think people can learn to master more recoil as their gun handling improves. I load mostly 158 grain for my 357 Ruger Security Six (4 inch) revolver or for my 357 Smith & Wesson 686P revolver. I enjoy shooting 357. I purchased a Smith & Wesson Model 67 (38 Special) thinking I could have fun shooting 38's, however, I feel more recoil firing this gun than I do with my 357's. After I changed the grips over to target style most of the recoil issues went by the boards. I still plan to master this little gun with the original factory grips because configured that way it weights less. Mostly it was imprinting on my hand. I also have a Thompson Contender with a 357 Remington Maximum barrel.
 
BritGirl, I got a chance this afternoon to go test out the Taurus :cool: It wasn't a very long session at all as today was rainy, overcast and got dark pretty early. But I did run through some 150 gr lead nosed rounds as well as finished up and cleaned out the gunk with the 110 +P Hydrashoks. The recoil I felt between the two was hardly noticeable. The only reason I'd know I was shooting two different rounds was that the 150s had a solid thick punch to them; the 110s had less of that punch although a slightly "sharper" feel, but with noticeble muzzle flash.

All in all, the difference between the rounds won't be felt. I was also wearing both inner and outer ear protection so although I could still hear, the pop was nothing :)
 
THANKS SHORTS - I can't wait to get out myself. This week for sure, but today was another no-go!

btw -- I always wear the inner spongie ear protectors as well as the external protectors. I'm interested to try my new externals. I'm hoping they cut down on the noise over the ones the range loans me - higer NRR anyway.
 
Most of the above is right on per my experience.

The recoil itself is often not really the problem, but rather the noise and flash. Reaction to recoil is a very personal/individual thing.

In competition shooting we are permitted to load a 158 gr bullet to 835 fps. I am not such a competitor that a few microseconds of recovery time matter so I usually load mine to about 900 fps+ with the 158 gr. bullet (well into the +P catagory) to make sure I qualify on the worst of reloading days. Some powders give a real different feeling at those loads, others are pussycats. Shop around.

Some notes:

Heavier guns (influenced by barrel length) will "soak up" some perceived recoil.

Light bullet rounds tend to make more noise and flash.

Proper grip reduces perceived recoil.

Taking the last first, make sure you are holding the grip so high up that the hammer almost touches your trigger hand as it travels. If you hold lower, this provides an unfavorable lever effect that multiplies the jump of the gun. A low grip also means you are working harder to control gun movement.

If you are using a snubby self defense gun all the flash, noise and recoil will be amplified. This is why it is difficult to compare when talking about a light weight gun. Just for informational purposes try heavier revolvers.

Heavier bullet rounds may seem tamer in a given revolver. Give them a try.
 
BritGirl,

Something else to add to your decision making process...

See if your local range/gun shop sells "target" loads using a wadcutter bullet. The bullet itself is simply a cylinder shape (flat a both ends, no "point"). Most common is the 148gr wadcutter target load. These are loaded very mild and will permit you to shoot comfortably to practice stance, grip, sight alignment, breathing control and reloading. If the range doesn't have these, look for a similar cartridge pushing a bullet at 700~750fps or a 130gr FMJ bullet up to 900fps or so.

The purpose of the above practice loads is to enable you to practice the fundamentals without subjecting you to harsh recoil or noise. Once your shooting "groups" in the same area consistently and you've corrected any technique issues (jerking trigger, flinch, gripping too tight) you move to defensive ammo. This also allows development of what is sometimes called "muscle memory" -- or ingrained patterns -- so that when you are shooting under stress the body "remembers" what to do without you thinking about it (like your golf swing, tennis forehand, etc.)

Once you have practiced with target/match ammo, move up to a "defense" cartridge -- 125gr LSWC or JHP without a +P rating. In your small gun, I'd stay with defensive rounds in the 125gr to 140gr weights. Now you'll have to deal with more recoil & noise, but you know what fundamentals to concentrate on and you ignore the noise, flash and some of the recoil. Take your time, speed isn't necessary yet. Your groups will move their point of impact. Don't worry as long as your groups are no bigger than the 10-ring.

After practice with the above, try your favorite defense loads. You're testing for a few things here;
  • Reliability - do they always go *bang* when you pull the trigger?
  • Accuracy - do they shoot close to point of aim? Do they group as good as your practice shots?
  • Recoil/blast - is the recoil too much for a fast second shot? Is the muzzle blast acceptable to you?
  • Extraction - Can you extract the fired cases easily? You shouldn't need to "pound" them out of the cylinder.
If any of the answers are "NO" to the above, seek a different defense load. You're actually better off using a load you can hit your target with than one that causes you to miss.

Once you've put about 200 rounds each of practice & regular defense (non +P) loads through your gun, you'll want to fire at least 50~100 rounds of your favorite defense load to get comfortable with it. Practice with something similar (i.e. if your defense load is 125gr +P JHP, use a 125gr non +P practice round).

You should be aware that a 2" snubbie is likely the most accurate with a particular bullet weight/velocity combination. The match wadcutter ammo might shoot high or low even at 15 yards. For most 2" guns, try 125gr JHP ammo for accuracy if the manual doesn't recommend a particular weight. But if your favorite is the 129gr Hydrashok, practice so you know where it groups then adjust your sights or your aim accordingly.
 
Unless your gun is an ultralite,

the felt recoil should not be much different. I fire +Ps from a taurus 85 ultralite and a Smith & Wesson 686P and, to be honest, I feel very little difference--even with the Taurus.

I think if you pull the trigger a few times, you won't be able to tell the difference either.

Just my two cents.
 
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