Disclaimer: I used to be a real hardcore four wheeler.
The challenge of four wheeling is to stratigecally place your tires so that the undercairrage is not subject to harm. Bigger lift=bigger tires=undercarriage higher up. A reall flexy suspension lift allows you to keep your center of balance somewhat lower when the trail gets real wild, (unsprung weight (axles and 36" tires) isn't flopping around in the air, it's still on the ground) and it also allows you to get more traction to the ground. Lockers are great, but ONLY if you dedicate yourself to learn how to use them. An "automatic" locker (read "all the time") like the Detroit or the Lock-Right never stops working, except when you're going around a curve.
Technical note: Lockers will not, under ANY circumstance, allow an undriven side of the diff to go SLOWER than the driven side.
What this means: In an "open diffed" car/truck the inside (undriven) tire goes slower than the outside (driven) tire, so yuor car goes around curves easily. In a locked diff car/truck around a curve, the inside side of the diff becomes the driven side, and the outside MUST SPEED UP in order to go around the longer radius of the curve...the locker will not allow it to go slower.
Getting back, the locker unlocks and allows the outside side to speed up around a turn, but then locks again once there's no differential force between the two...often with a jerk. All this means that if you drive your rig on the street in any ice or snow, look out, as when the locker re-locks, your rear end may come around to meet you. This is why you have to learn to drive a different way totally. In the woods, where traction is scarce, and you lift one or two tires in the air, you stil want to oput traction down, but on the street, they can kill you or others if you're not careful.
If you have the money, look into ARB Air Lockers. They run off of a compressed air actuation system, and turn on and off with the push of two buttons (one for front, one for back). They're the ONLY way to drive... Yes, I have two!
I love them! BTW, once I got lockers front and rear, I never used my winch for myself again, unless the trail was insane...they're THAT good at what they do.
For a boonies vehicle, I'd get a Warn 8274 winch on the front, one or two snatch blocks, several non-stretchy (static) tow straps, a tree saver strap, a set of work gloves, some clevis hooks, a good quality shovel (the MAX AX is awesome), a High Lift jack (this can be used as a poor man's winch), a 4" suspension lift on whatever you're driving (you don't need the 8" that I have!) and maybe 33" or 35" tires since you probably won't upgrade the engine or tranny, a rear ARB air locker, and look into one for the front if you can afford it, a deep water solution (diff and tranny breathers, intake and exhaust snorkels, electronic waterproofing) -side note, diesels run as well underwater as they do in dry land- , a roll cage, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, some EXPERIENCE. Go out and get stuck...figure it out.
Never wheel alone. I'm serious.