I haven't had that happen exactly. I have attempted drying out the chambers and loading them the night before i go shooting-no wad or compressed grease. They are more prone to hang fires when left loaded overnight with pyrodex than with goex and also for the first cylinderfull of the day. My theory is that there is some oil remaining in the works- maybe under the nipple threads, that gets into the powder. When I leave an already shot one loaded overnight, as I have done on weekend and camping trips, slow ignition doesn't seem to be a problem.
Ordered my 1851 .36 Navy today and ...
- Thread starter Remington kid
- Start date
Remington kid
New member
Thanks Mec, Thats a bummer for me. When I'm tracking bear in the early summer(spring) I have left my Remingtons loaded for several weeks with the Goex and never had a problem with it. Sure hope someone around here starts carrying the Goex again. Maybe I'll have to save up a couple of hundred dollars and head up to the log cabin shop in Lodi ,Ohio and stock up on Goex.
"51's
MEC, when you said you had .450 champers and land to land + or- .001 or so I don't understand the logic. Isn't the chamber to "barrel grooves" dimension the comparison to make? I reamed most of my guns chambers to match the grooves in the barrels. I get good accuracy that way and more consistancy abeit a flyer now and then. An example....I shot at the mud above a stone on the other side of my pond and put the balls in the same hole that was about 3" across sos I figure the group about 2-3". The distance across the pond has to be at least 40-45 yards. I never stepped it off though. I tried once when I was drunk and only made it half way before I realized I can't walk on water and went in. ha ha Anywhooo, I may shoot at a sapling about 3" across and 35 yards away and plink it at least 4-6 times with a cylinder full. When I'm havin a good day. Ect. Ect. What I'm sayin is I think I get good accuracy with the chambers sized to match the grooves in the barrel. You seem to know what you're talking about with these guns so what's your take on my opinion about the chambers to grooves matching? I thought I read that you wrote a book? Got a copy for me? Anywhooo, I should learn to bench shoot instead of testing my guns one handed style sos I can keep a record. I may shoot leaves in the mud at the back of the pond at 35 paces with my Uberti 1860 Army and 25gr. FFg 777 pretty consistantly but it's hard to save leaves with holes in them. ha ha When I size chambers to match barrel grooves the gun seems to shoot everything from FFg Qoex to Pyrodex pistol to 777 powders all with good accuracy. I got the idea from shooting cast lead bullets and cartridges and learning that the bullet being right at groove diameter or .001-.002 over groove diameter works well. I stuck the cylinder from my Pietta "Shooters" model in my standard model Pietta Remington and was a little amazed that day at how accurate it was. More pressure to the sound of it but.... accurate. Seemed like I hit everything that day. The chambers of the "Shooters" cylinder are .455 and the barrel grooves of my standard Remington Pietta are .452. That's .003 chambers over the grooves. Anywhooo, a well centered chucking reamer, four flute,straight flute can do a really good job reaming chambers. I should mention that reaming the chambers only as far down as the ball will ever seat is a good idea I guess especially with the 1860 Colt Army and the rebated cylinder.You know, all the known to be accurate cap&ball revolvers like the Pedersoli's and the Rugers and the Uberti 1862 Pocket Police and Pocket Navy and the Pietta "Shooters Remington and the "Wayners" (ha ha ha ) have about equal chambers to barrel grooves dimensions. The Pedersoli Rodgers and Spencer has .450 chambers and .451 barrel grooves and the Pedersoli Remington has .453 chambers and .451 barrel grooves. The Ruger Old Army has chambers .002-.003 over barrel groove diameter and the Pietta "shooters" Remington has equal chambers and barrel grooves at .456. The Pietta "distressed finish" Remington, 1860 Army and 1851 44cal. have equal chambers and barrel grooves. I'd like somebody in Italy to tell me why so many of the other cap&ballers have undersized chambers. Anywhoo, I'm glad Remington Kids guns from Cabelas turn out to be good ones. I guess I'm not lucky. I've had to get down and dirt rollin and scrapin and scratchin every inch of the way the last 55 years for just about everything. ha ha ha ha
MEC, when you said you had .450 champers and land to land + or- .001 or so I don't understand the logic. Isn't the chamber to "barrel grooves" dimension the comparison to make? I reamed most of my guns chambers to match the grooves in the barrels. I get good accuracy that way and more consistancy abeit a flyer now and then. An example....I shot at the mud above a stone on the other side of my pond and put the balls in the same hole that was about 3" across sos I figure the group about 2-3". The distance across the pond has to be at least 40-45 yards. I never stepped it off though. I tried once when I was drunk and only made it half way before I realized I can't walk on water and went in. ha ha Anywhooo, I may shoot at a sapling about 3" across and 35 yards away and plink it at least 4-6 times with a cylinder full. When I'm havin a good day. Ect. Ect. What I'm sayin is I think I get good accuracy with the chambers sized to match the grooves in the barrel. You seem to know what you're talking about with these guns so what's your take on my opinion about the chambers to grooves matching? I thought I read that you wrote a book? Got a copy for me? Anywhooo, I should learn to bench shoot instead of testing my guns one handed style sos I can keep a record. I may shoot leaves in the mud at the back of the pond at 35 paces with my Uberti 1860 Army and 25gr. FFg 777 pretty consistantly but it's hard to save leaves with holes in them. ha ha When I size chambers to match barrel grooves the gun seems to shoot everything from FFg Qoex to Pyrodex pistol to 777 powders all with good accuracy. I got the idea from shooting cast lead bullets and cartridges and learning that the bullet being right at groove diameter or .001-.002 over groove diameter works well. I stuck the cylinder from my Pietta "Shooters" model in my standard model Pietta Remington and was a little amazed that day at how accurate it was. More pressure to the sound of it but.... accurate. Seemed like I hit everything that day. The chambers of the "Shooters" cylinder are .455 and the barrel grooves of my standard Remington Pietta are .452. That's .003 chambers over the grooves. Anywhooo, a well centered chucking reamer, four flute,straight flute can do a really good job reaming chambers. I should mention that reaming the chambers only as far down as the ball will ever seat is a good idea I guess especially with the 1860 Colt Army and the rebated cylinder.You know, all the known to be accurate cap&ball revolvers like the Pedersoli's and the Rugers and the Uberti 1862 Pocket Police and Pocket Navy and the Pietta "Shooters Remington and the "Wayners" (ha ha ha ) have about equal chambers to barrel grooves dimensions. The Pedersoli Rodgers and Spencer has .450 chambers and .451 barrel grooves and the Pedersoli Remington has .453 chambers and .451 barrel grooves. The Ruger Old Army has chambers .002-.003 over barrel groove diameter and the Pietta "shooters" Remington has equal chambers and barrel grooves at .456. The Pietta "distressed finish" Remington, 1860 Army and 1851 44cal. have equal chambers and barrel grooves. I'd like somebody in Italy to tell me why so many of the other cap&ballers have undersized chambers. Anywhoo, I'm glad Remington Kids guns from Cabelas turn out to be good ones. I guess I'm not lucky. I've had to get down and dirt rollin and scrapin and scratchin every inch of the way the last 55 years for just about everything. ha ha ha ha
Old Dragoon
New member
WayneR,
I think MEC was saying the same thing you just said.
I think it all depends on the final dia of the forcing cone...IF the Chamber Dia and the Groove Dia are Equal or for sure if the chamber dia is larger. I want my chambers to be at least equal to the groove Dia.orin the case of the "Shooter" cylinder, larger. Hence your .454 dia cylinder shooting so good in the .451-452 grooves Pietta. Your forcing cone sized the .454 ball to it's dia. When you look at the point the grooves flow into the forcing cone, that dia should be the same. That is what determines the final dia of the projectile and that is the point of expansion, that if it is the same dia., expansion should continue for a ways down the bore. That is what determines the expansion of the projectile to allow it to fill the grooves.
Now if the chamber Dia is amaller than the grooves, likely it is smaller than the forcing cone. then all you can depend on is projectile expansion(Obsturate? (sic) and that just doesn't cut it.
Luckily, when I measured all my cylinder bores they were .451-.452, and when I mesured the grooves they were also .451-.452, as close as I can measure with my Dial Calipers both inside at the forcing cone/groove juncture, and by measuring a bullet slugged in the bores(one each) the Gunfighter 4 3/4" bbl (now) is different in the fact that that lands are shallower (bigger bore) by a gnats whisker.
I think MEC was saying the same thing you just said.
I think it all depends on the final dia of the forcing cone...IF the Chamber Dia and the Groove Dia are Equal or for sure if the chamber dia is larger. I want my chambers to be at least equal to the groove Dia.orin the case of the "Shooter" cylinder, larger. Hence your .454 dia cylinder shooting so good in the .451-452 grooves Pietta. Your forcing cone sized the .454 ball to it's dia. When you look at the point the grooves flow into the forcing cone, that dia should be the same. That is what determines the final dia of the projectile and that is the point of expansion, that if it is the same dia., expansion should continue for a ways down the bore. That is what determines the expansion of the projectile to allow it to fill the grooves.
Now if the chamber Dia is amaller than the grooves, likely it is smaller than the forcing cone. then all you can depend on is projectile expansion(Obsturate? (sic) and that just doesn't cut it.
Luckily, when I measured all my cylinder bores they were .451-.452, and when I mesured the grooves they were also .451-.452, as close as I can measure with my Dial Calipers both inside at the forcing cone/groove juncture, and by measuring a bullet slugged in the bores(one each) the Gunfighter 4 3/4" bbl (now) is different in the fact that that lands are shallower (bigger bore) by a gnats whisker.
chambers
Mec, you have a book you wrote? I want one of them to read. ha ha How about it? Old Dragoon, were your chambers equal to the barrels grooves out of the box or did you ream them? I was wondering if Alesandro Pietta finally, after some prodding, finally started putting the guns out with equal grooves and chambers.Uberti doesn't as far as I've seen in the past. Uberti has always had a bigger gap between chambers and barrel grooves. My 1851 Colt Navy Uberti had chambers at .372 and barrel rooves at .385! That's .013! I reamed the chambers about halfway down to .385 so now I use a .390 ball. My Walker has grooves in the barrel at .464 sos I reamed the chambers part way down to .464 and use a .472 ball. I've clipped ground hogs out at the 100 yard mark and beyond with that big boy. Of course it takes luck too and good eyes. Now adays my eyes are weak sos I don't shoot the way I did years ago. I always shoot one handed though and have for years. It feels funny to shoot two handed and I can't do it well anymore really. ha ha ha
Mec, you have a book you wrote? I want one of them to read. ha ha How about it? Old Dragoon, were your chambers equal to the barrels grooves out of the box or did you ream them? I was wondering if Alesandro Pietta finally, after some prodding, finally started putting the guns out with equal grooves and chambers.Uberti doesn't as far as I've seen in the past. Uberti has always had a bigger gap between chambers and barrel grooves. My 1851 Colt Navy Uberti had chambers at .372 and barrel rooves at .385! That's .013! I reamed the chambers about halfway down to .385 so now I use a .390 ball. My Walker has grooves in the barrel at .464 sos I reamed the chambers part way down to .464 and use a .472 ball. I've clipped ground hogs out at the 100 yard mark and beyond with that big boy. Of course it takes luck too and good eyes. Now adays my eyes are weak sos I don't shoot the way I did years ago. I always shoot one handed though and have for years. It feels funny to shoot two handed and I can't do it well anymore really. ha ha ha
Old Dragoon
New member
All three of my '58 Piettas were new in the box and unfired, two had not even been turned one was dry fired quite a bit as the hammer was deformed, nipples were ok.
No reaming. All I did was check them out with the dial calipers. I have since recrowned the muzzles and polished the forcing cones. I did shoot lap each one two shots and lapped them lightly to get rid of any snags. One is a 2000, one a 2002 and the Gunfighter 4 3/4 is a 2005. This is the one that had the indentations in the bore at the frontsight and rammer latch locations that caused me to cut her down. This pistol is the one also that has the shallower rifling(bigger dia bore(lands). I consider this one the latter of the three as of now. I will finish the rammer/catch this evening and refinish tomorrow night.I hope to shoot this one Sat Morning and I'll let you know how she shoots after all the work.
No reaming. All I did was check them out with the dial calipers. I have since recrowned the muzzles and polished the forcing cones. I did shoot lap each one two shots and lapped them lightly to get rid of any snags. One is a 2000, one a 2002 and the Gunfighter 4 3/4 is a 2005. This is the one that had the indentations in the bore at the frontsight and rammer latch locations that caused me to cut her down. This pistol is the one also that has the shallower rifling(bigger dia bore(lands). I consider this one the latter of the three as of now. I will finish the rammer/catch this evening and refinish tomorrow night.I hope to shoot this one Sat Morning and I'll let you know how she shoots after all the work.
Book is Percussion Pistols and Revolvers at Barnes and Noble or Amazon.com. For pretty pictures and low price, get the e-book. The pictures are in color and you can zoom them up. In print, they are black and white and a bit utilitarian.
My Ubertis are all recent and all have the above mentioned measurements. The walker has kind of a long free-bored forcing cone. This is a 50 yard group shot while chronographing. I was resting the gun over my knees. The bullet is the original type picket bullet
I seldom shoot bench groups- except when trying to learn something about the relative accuracy of various bullets or such. When I do shoot them they tend to announce that the chamber-bore dimensions are in good relationship.
A group I shot right after this one with .451 Ball was even better:
It is no great accomplishment bench shoot a group like this at 50 feet but it does tend to indicate that the gun is accurate.
I believe this would have been a real good bench group. but I shot it standing up. As I recall it was the first cylinderfull out of this uberti dragoon. I suspect the two fliers would have retracted into the group from a steady rest.
On the whole, I can do a little better with an 8 3/8" 29 but it's close enough for what I want to do with these smoke wagons
My Ubertis are all recent and all have the above mentioned measurements. The walker has kind of a long free-bored forcing cone. This is a 50 yard group shot while chronographing. I was resting the gun over my knees. The bullet is the original type picket bullet
I seldom shoot bench groups- except when trying to learn something about the relative accuracy of various bullets or such. When I do shoot them they tend to announce that the chamber-bore dimensions are in good relationship.
A group I shot right after this one with .451 Ball was even better:
It is no great accomplishment bench shoot a group like this at 50 feet but it does tend to indicate that the gun is accurate.
I believe this would have been a real good bench group. but I shot it standing up. As I recall it was the first cylinderfull out of this uberti dragoon. I suspect the two fliers would have retracted into the group from a steady rest.
On the whole, I can do a little better with an 8 3/8" 29 but it's close enough for what I want to do with these smoke wagons
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chambers
Well,I guess it's good you guys don't have to ream any chambers. My guns were wanting in the accuracy dept. where consistancy is concerned. The fouling problems shooting subsequent shots thru a blackpowder fouled bore was addressed by the use of lube pills under the ball or wool wads saturated in more lube mixed with beeswax to make the lube more of a solid than a paste. The inconsistancy was what bothered me. I could shoot some good targets but the good ones were not indicative to what the guns were really doing. I figured the looseness of the balls swagged by an undersized chamber left space in each groove for gas to squirt thru and cause the guns to shoot kind of the way one shoots when it has a worn crown. Obsturation didn't seem to be happening consistanly. I reamed chambers to match the grooves in the barrels and the inconsistancy seemed to be eliminated abeit not totally. I wouldn't make up stories and say I never get flyers you know. Anywhooo, I've noticed a big improvement in the consistancy of the guns accuracy after the reaming of the chambers to match the grooves of the barrel. I figure the balls are obsturated more consistanly with the resistance the ball gives the powder blast when the ball hits the rifling and fully engages it. I measured the three new Pietta Remington cylinders I have and one went .444-445 in the chambers the other went .445-447 and the other .445-.446. The barrels are real close to .452. The Dixie catalog list the specs. for Pietta Rems at .446 chambers and .451 barrel grooves. Dixie catalog lists the 1860 Colt Army Uberti at .449 chambers and .452 barrel grooves. The guns don't always come the way the specs. are listed with the Piettas being the most consistant with the sizing of the chambers and barrels. I have two 1860 Armies by Uberti and they are fine guns but the barrels are .453 and .455 with them and the chambers were anywhere from .447 to .450 in each cylinder with the chambers all a little different than the others.Reaming the chambers to be at least what the largest chamber is at,say, .450 couldn't hurt consistancy. I first used a tool from Brownells with pilots to make the forcing cones and the muzzles crowns smooth and concentric with the axis of the barrels bore but the inconsistancy with accuracy was still there even with cleaning the fouling in the barrels every shot. When I finally reamed the chambers to match the barrels grooves the inconsistancy finally abated a good bit. When I hit upon the idea to use a shim on the top end of the arbor where it is seated in the barrels arbor hole in the barrel (Colts)the accuracy seemed to be "right there". The barrels could not move at all with the force of the powder blast and the lead ball. I like the way Pietta bottoms the arbor in the arbor holes of the barrels with Colt clones and seem to have a tighter fit of the arbor in that hole diameter wise. Wish Uberti did that. Anywhooo, that is one little story in Wayners world with shooting cap&ballers. ha ha ha
Well,I guess it's good you guys don't have to ream any chambers. My guns were wanting in the accuracy dept. where consistancy is concerned. The fouling problems shooting subsequent shots thru a blackpowder fouled bore was addressed by the use of lube pills under the ball or wool wads saturated in more lube mixed with beeswax to make the lube more of a solid than a paste. The inconsistancy was what bothered me. I could shoot some good targets but the good ones were not indicative to what the guns were really doing. I figured the looseness of the balls swagged by an undersized chamber left space in each groove for gas to squirt thru and cause the guns to shoot kind of the way one shoots when it has a worn crown. Obsturation didn't seem to be happening consistanly. I reamed chambers to match the grooves in the barrels and the inconsistancy seemed to be eliminated abeit not totally. I wouldn't make up stories and say I never get flyers you know. Anywhooo, I've noticed a big improvement in the consistancy of the guns accuracy after the reaming of the chambers to match the grooves of the barrel. I figure the balls are obsturated more consistanly with the resistance the ball gives the powder blast when the ball hits the rifling and fully engages it. I measured the three new Pietta Remington cylinders I have and one went .444-445 in the chambers the other went .445-447 and the other .445-.446. The barrels are real close to .452. The Dixie catalog list the specs. for Pietta Rems at .446 chambers and .451 barrel grooves. Dixie catalog lists the 1860 Colt Army Uberti at .449 chambers and .452 barrel grooves. The guns don't always come the way the specs. are listed with the Piettas being the most consistant with the sizing of the chambers and barrels. I have two 1860 Armies by Uberti and they are fine guns but the barrels are .453 and .455 with them and the chambers were anywhere from .447 to .450 in each cylinder with the chambers all a little different than the others.Reaming the chambers to be at least what the largest chamber is at,say, .450 couldn't hurt consistancy. I first used a tool from Brownells with pilots to make the forcing cones and the muzzles crowns smooth and concentric with the axis of the barrels bore but the inconsistancy with accuracy was still there even with cleaning the fouling in the barrels every shot. When I finally reamed the chambers to match the barrels grooves the inconsistancy finally abated a good bit. When I hit upon the idea to use a shim on the top end of the arbor where it is seated in the barrels arbor hole in the barrel (Colts)the accuracy seemed to be "right there". The barrels could not move at all with the force of the powder blast and the lead ball. I like the way Pietta bottoms the arbor in the arbor holes of the barrels with Colt clones and seem to have a tighter fit of the arbor in that hole diameter wise. Wish Uberti did that. Anywhooo, that is one little story in Wayners world with shooting cap&ballers. ha ha ha
Bates has an armi san marco dragoon with three different chamber mouth measurements. He reamed them out to consistent diameters and the gun started to shoot very good groups.
He also has an old brass frame from either Pietta or Uberti ( Uberti no longer uses brass. This one has the same thing- at least three distinctly different chamber mouths. It would seem easier to get them all the same size than to screw them up in this manner. It made me think maybe they finish the chambers all at once with a six-reamer head on a friction clutch.
He also has an old brass frame from either Pietta or Uberti ( Uberti no longer uses brass. This one has the same thing- at least three distinctly different chamber mouths. It would seem easier to get them all the same size than to screw them up in this manner. It made me think maybe they finish the chambers all at once with a six-reamer head on a friction clutch.
chambers
I don't know what a six reamer friction clutch is anywhooo. ha ha I do know that from what I see with Pietta guns is that the cylinders are close tolerance from chambers to chamber and the cylinders are seemingly all real close compared to one another. I like that. Getting a spare cylinder isn't so much of a "send it back several times until finding one that works" thing with the Pietta's. I'm a Uberti man myself but the improvements Pietta has been making with the new machines I guess they got is turning me into a Pietta man.
Anywhooo, Pietta chambers are closer to the size of the barrels grooves than Uberti sems to come in the box. Some Piettas like the "shooters Remington and the "antiqued finish" Colts and Remingtons have chambers equal to the barrels grooves. Why Pietta does that with some guns and not others is beyond me. Of course a lot of things are beyond me. When is Beretta going to do more improving with the Uberti cap&ballers???? Heeelllooooow Beretta! Can you hear me? 
I don't know what a six reamer friction clutch is anywhooo. ha ha I do know that from what I see with Pietta guns is that the cylinders are close tolerance from chambers to chamber and the cylinders are seemingly all real close compared to one another. I like that. Getting a spare cylinder isn't so much of a "send it back several times until finding one that works" thing with the Pietta's. I'm a Uberti man myself but the improvements Pietta has been making with the new machines I guess they got is turning me into a Pietta man.
Anywhooo, Pietta chambers are closer to the size of the barrels grooves than Uberti sems to come in the box. Some Piettas like the "shooters Remington and the "antiqued finish" Colts and Remingtons have chambers equal to the barrels grooves. Why Pietta does that with some guns and not others is beyond me. Of course a lot of things are beyond me. When is Beretta going to do more improving with the Uberti cap&ballers???? Heeelllooooow Beretta! Can you hear me? I don't know about that last. It may be they have heard you in reverse. I saw a new Uberti Navy the other day. They have run out of the cherry tinted log they have been using for grips the last couple of years and now have another flavor. The wood looked good but there was an unsightly gap where wood meets frame.
Remington kid
New member
Here is what I get from my Pietta Navy .36 1851. Barrel is .360, chambers are .366 and very consistent. The balls I have been useing are .380 and they leave a perfect ring on lead from all 12 chambers (2 Cylinders) when compressed with the loading lever.
The .380 barrel sluged ball you see is elongated as it should be and I have no problems with the accuracy of this Revolver.I must admit that I was a little taken back when I saw just how close all the chambers are.
The .375 balls would probably been fine in this Revolver also but the .380 works great so why fix it if it aint broke
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The .380 barrel sluged ball you see is elongated as it should be and I have no problems with the accuracy of this Revolver.I must admit that I was a little taken back when I saw just how close all the chambers are.
The .375 balls would probably been fine in this Revolver also but the .380 works great so why fix it if it aint broke
Remington kid
New member
Mec, The problem is that I listened to everyone else and they all said I would want to shoot the .380 ball and that the .375 would be to small . I ordered the .380 Lee double cavity mold and that's what I've been useing. Already casted several hundred They shoot good and no problem to load so I guess I'll stick with them.
They shoot good and no problem to load so I guess I'll stick with them.the 375s are a bit loose in the uberti 36s- at least some of them. Bates Pocket Navy and 58 remington seem to like them just fine. My 61 Navy will let some of the hornady balls fall part way into the chamber. Shoving them down smartly on a full column of powder forms them to the chamber walls very nicely though. Even so, I try to use 380s with that gun.
Kind of the same thing with the .44s. Piettas usually do very well with .451" while some of the Ubertis like them too while others tend to have ball creep with anything less than .454"
Kind of the same thing with the .44s. Piettas usually do very well with .451" while some of the Ubertis like them too while others tend to have ball creep with anything less than .454"
Old Dragoon
New member
OOPS! I mis-informed earlier.
My BP cylinders do not equal the grooves. However, that said all three cylinders , as close as I can measure with my dial calipers, are. .445-.446, chamber to chamber, cylinder to cylinder. My Pietta's like the .451 balls. The obstuation (sic) must be just what the guns like.
My conversion cylinder chambers are .451-452. so the 44 colt cartridge cases will load, that is also the Dia of the drive bands on the 44 Rem Bullets. That is what matches the grooves.
Sorry for the mis info.
My BP cylinders do not equal the grooves. However, that said all three cylinders , as close as I can measure with my dial calipers, are. .445-.446, chamber to chamber, cylinder to cylinder. My Pietta's like the .451 balls. The obstuation (sic) must be just what the guns like.
My conversion cylinder chambers are .451-452. so the 44 colt cartridge cases will load, that is also the Dia of the drive bands on the 44 Rem Bullets. That is what matches the grooves.
Sorry for the mis info.
..............Old Dragoon,
So's not to wake a month old thread "Shooting My ' 58's", the '58 "parts gun" came in today. If you remember from the pics on the auction site, the rammer catch was gone, too.
Question for you is, when you cut the catch out of your barrel on the one with high spots in the bore, did you note how it was installed? Reason I ask is that the hole in my barrel, a BU Pietta ( Damn, I can't find the date chart in my bookmarks), the hole is just about .045 deep. I thought at first it was broken off, got a glass and a scraper, cleaned up the bottom, and it's just a flat bottomed hole just that deep. Couldn't have been the cause of the lumps in your barrel. I guess the sight is the same, a flat end mill .045 or so deep. Hole is, I think, .260 diameter.
I don't even think it is soft or hard soldered in, think it might be epoxied, as a small screwdriver scraped the residue out of the hole.
The gun doesn't look too bad, now, a little drawfiling got most of the tooth marks out, dumbass got a couple bites on it, frame to 3 1/2 inches from it.. Couple vise toothmarks on the frame under the barrel, not too noticable, might leave them alone, still blue.
Don't know if I am gonna take the bite marks all the way out of live with them. Measures .700 minus a couple across the flats, back and front, have to take off all the lettering to get down to .6875, for 11/16. Probably use a rope wrench to get it back on. Don't want to ding the flats, again.
BTW, if you want an accurate chamber measurement, why don't you seat a couple balls with the rammer, drive them out through the nipple holes with an 1/8 inch rod, and measure them? Closer than trying to get the inside caliper perfect. Find out the size AND if they are round.
Blue this one, maybe give it to my shootin' son in law, have someone to shoot BP with.
As an aside, I don't know how many of you shoot modern, was at my garage today, mentioned I got a new BP revolver, guy said Hey, my b'in law needs money, got a .44 Mag, Smith 29-2, 6 inch nickle plate, 350, offered 300. Always liked Smith 29's. Rather have an 8 3/8, but would put up with it.
Whatta you think?
Cheers,
George
So's not to wake a month old thread "Shooting My ' 58's", the '58 "parts gun" came in today. If you remember from the pics on the auction site, the rammer catch was gone, too.
Question for you is, when you cut the catch out of your barrel on the one with high spots in the bore, did you note how it was installed? Reason I ask is that the hole in my barrel, a BU Pietta ( Damn, I can't find the date chart in my bookmarks), the hole is just about .045 deep. I thought at first it was broken off, got a glass and a scraper, cleaned up the bottom, and it's just a flat bottomed hole just that deep. Couldn't have been the cause of the lumps in your barrel. I guess the sight is the same, a flat end mill .045 or so deep. Hole is, I think, .260 diameter.
I don't even think it is soft or hard soldered in, think it might be epoxied, as a small screwdriver scraped the residue out of the hole.
The gun doesn't look too bad, now, a little drawfiling got most of the tooth marks out, dumbass got a couple bites on it, frame to 3 1/2 inches from it.. Couple vise toothmarks on the frame under the barrel, not too noticable, might leave them alone, still blue.
Don't know if I am gonna take the bite marks all the way out of live with them. Measures .700 minus a couple across the flats, back and front, have to take off all the lettering to get down to .6875, for 11/16. Probably use a rope wrench to get it back on. Don't want to ding the flats, again.
BTW, if you want an accurate chamber measurement, why don't you seat a couple balls with the rammer, drive them out through the nipple holes with an 1/8 inch rod, and measure them? Closer than trying to get the inside caliper perfect. Find out the size AND if they are round.
Blue this one, maybe give it to my shootin' son in law, have someone to shoot BP with.
As an aside, I don't know how many of you shoot modern, was at my garage today, mentioned I got a new BP revolver, guy said Hey, my b'in law needs money, got a .44 Mag, Smith 29-2, 6 inch nickle plate, 350, offered 300. Always liked Smith 29's. Rather have an 8 3/8, but would put up with it.
Whatta you think?
Cheers,
George
measure balls
Hey GMATOV, if you drive the balls that are seated in the chambers out the nipple holes wouldn't that size the balls a little small? Just kiddin. It would be a little more accurate measuring a ball sized by the chamber.Anywhooo, maybe it has become apparant that if the chambers are not much smaller than .003 under grooves then accuracy is probably gonna be alright. I think the 36's like it with chambers .003 under barrel grooves maybe better than chambers equal. Have to test that. Guess I'll have to do some more shootin. Darn. George, That ain't a bad deal on a Smith. Smiths are good.
Hey GMATOV, if you drive the balls that are seated in the chambers out the nipple holes wouldn't that size the balls a little small?
Just kiddin. It would be a little more accurate measuring a ball sized by the chamber.Anywhooo, maybe it has become apparant that if the chambers are not much smaller than .003 under grooves then accuracy is probably gonna be alright. I think the 36's like it with chambers .003 under barrel grooves maybe better than chambers equal. Have to test that. Guess I'll have to do some more shootin. Darn. George, That ain't a bad deal on a Smith. Smiths are good.