Opinions on Polish Radom P-64
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RockyMtnTactical
New member
I bought a couple of these. I am not impressed when measuring them up against the Makarov or CZ-82. Recoil is uncomfortable, and I never considered myself very sensitive to recoil...
The trigger is unusable in DA.
I already have a broken safety. Just ordered the new part... had to be shipped from Poland.
The trigger is unusable in DA.
I already have a broken safety. Just ordered the new part... had to be shipped from Poland.
Same as the difference between an apple and a plum. The only thing similar between those two is that they are both sweet fruits. The only thing similar between a Mak and a P-64 is that they both use the 9x18 cartridge (and the fact that they are both autoloading pistols that use blowback actions).
What reliability issues?
Interesting comments re reliability. RMT: What was the failure of the safety?
I've had 4 of the P-64's, sold two of them to friends (that love them), and kept two. I shoot 95gr TMJ Blount for practice, and 95gr Hornady JHP and 70gr Pow'R Ball for carry. After many 100's of rounds, I've never had a fail-to-feed, or fail-to-fire, nor a hard mechanical (component) failure. At least in my hand, the P-64's recoil is less uncomfortable than that of my Glock 30 and a number of compact 9mm and .40's, and it's easily concealed, is just as accurate, and is an effective self-defense firearm with ammo like the Pow'R Ball. The S/A trigger pull is smooth and glitchless with virtually no perceptible "staging" or hammer drop threshold, so helps to reduce "flinching" in the hands of shooters who might be prone to flinching. The "surprise" hammer drop is a plus for control and accuracy in my opinion.
BTW, in addition to my application of moly to the trigger components to improve the D/A pull, I also apply moly to the detent c'sink (pocket) on the safety lever shaft. That detent c'sink can be accessed by removing the slide from the frame, and rotating the safety to the "safe" position. The detent is located on the right side of the slide, and the safety doesn't have to be removed from the slide (as it must in the Walther PP's) to be lubed. In the "safe" position, fill the detent c'sink/pocket on the safety shaft/axle with moly paste, operate the safety a few times, re-fill the detent pocket, return the safety to "fire" position, re-assemble the slide onto the frame. This has really smoothed the operation of the safety on my P-64's. I've also done this on my PP's and P-38's, but it's a lot more work involved on them, as the safety has to be removed from the slide. Moly paste is great stuff for sliding, high friction surfaces.
PS:The number of broken safety levers that I've seen on Walther PP's, leads me to believe that people try to remove the safety by trying to pry the underside of the safety lever away from the slide with the safety in one of the "detent" positions (and maybe without clearing the firing pin from the safety shaft/axle). Almost guarantees a broken safety lever....
Interesting comments re reliability. RMT: What was the failure of the safety?
I've had 4 of the P-64's, sold two of them to friends (that love them), and kept two. I shoot 95gr TMJ Blount for practice, and 95gr Hornady JHP and 70gr Pow'R Ball for carry. After many 100's of rounds, I've never had a fail-to-feed, or fail-to-fire, nor a hard mechanical (component) failure. At least in my hand, the P-64's recoil is less uncomfortable than that of my Glock 30 and a number of compact 9mm and .40's, and it's easily concealed, is just as accurate, and is an effective self-defense firearm with ammo like the Pow'R Ball. The S/A trigger pull is smooth and glitchless with virtually no perceptible "staging" or hammer drop threshold, so helps to reduce "flinching" in the hands of shooters who might be prone to flinching. The "surprise" hammer drop is a plus for control and accuracy in my opinion.
BTW, in addition to my application of moly to the trigger components to improve the D/A pull, I also apply moly to the detent c'sink (pocket) on the safety lever shaft. That detent c'sink can be accessed by removing the slide from the frame, and rotating the safety to the "safe" position. The detent is located on the right side of the slide, and the safety doesn't have to be removed from the slide (as it must in the Walther PP's) to be lubed. In the "safe" position, fill the detent c'sink/pocket on the safety shaft/axle with moly paste, operate the safety a few times, re-fill the detent pocket, return the safety to "fire" position, re-assemble the slide onto the frame. This has really smoothed the operation of the safety on my P-64's. I've also done this on my PP's and P-38's, but it's a lot more work involved on them, as the safety has to be removed from the slide. Moly paste is great stuff for sliding, high friction surfaces.
PS:The number of broken safety levers that I've seen on Walther PP's, leads me to believe that people try to remove the safety by trying to pry the underside of the safety lever away from the slide with the safety in one of the "detent" positions (and maybe without clearing the firing pin from the safety shaft/axle). Almost guarantees a broken safety lever....
There's been a good dozen P64's pass through this house and the only reliability issues that a few have had have all been mag related.
All that we've bought had used mags and some were well used. There's a small tang on top of the mag right above the follower that tends to get weak and bend out. Letting the next rd in the mag stick up to high, not letting the gun cycle properly. Some are worn to the point they were very sharp. Guess how I found that out.
At any rate, I looked at some of the newer mags that fed flawless, bent the tangs on the ones that were giving us trouble to match the newer ones and they worked fine.
I've not tried the molly but there's a stock P64 in the safe I'll tinker with. The other three in there have had Wolf springs kits installed.
Two of my brothers and son all have them and none have had any issues firing S&B FMJ or Hornady JHP's.
IMO, they are hard to beat for the money.
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houstonvet
Inactive
Love mine too
The P64 is one of my favorite guns, and my favorite carry in summer. I bought it thinking I was getting a Makarov, but of course it's not, just uses the cartridge. I then bought a CZ82 which is more comfortable to shoot and another great deal, but not nearly as concealable. I then sprang for a FEG PA63 but even though its quite a bit lighter it just isn't as nice a gun. A holster maker at a gunshow (D.M. Bullard) put it in a holster for a Sig P232 and it fits very nicely. Like PhantomCaptain I find the recoil quite manageable, and mine is stock, although when I first used it my hand was bit a little. And it is VERY accurate, rivaling my H&K P7. One caution, it is possible for it to discharge if dropped just right and the safety is off, unlike the PA63 which has a different firing pin design. So keep the safety on. Like Yamatr3 I find my Keltec PF9 much more painful to shoot, and not nearly as accurate.
The P64 is one of my favorite guns, and my favorite carry in summer. I bought it thinking I was getting a Makarov, but of course it's not, just uses the cartridge. I then bought a CZ82 which is more comfortable to shoot and another great deal, but not nearly as concealable. I then sprang for a FEG PA63 but even though its quite a bit lighter it just isn't as nice a gun. A holster maker at a gunshow (D.M. Bullard) put it in a holster for a Sig P232 and it fits very nicely. Like PhantomCaptain I find the recoil quite manageable, and mine is stock, although when I first used it my hand was bit a little. And it is VERY accurate, rivaling my H&K P7. One caution, it is possible for it to discharge if dropped just right and the safety is off, unlike the PA63 which has a different firing pin design. So keep the safety on. Like Yamatr3 I find my Keltec PF9 much more painful to shoot, and not nearly as accurate.
The only P64 I keep loaded is in a P232 holster. BTW, since I got my first 9x18 pistols (Maks, P64s and a CZ82), I have had no interest in firing the Sig. I don't like to fire more than 100 rounds thru my P64s during a range visit because of the recoil, but I still really like them.
"Forgive my ignorance on this subject, but whats the diff between an old [E]ast [G]erman Mak and the P64 ? "
The East German Makarov PM is a modlified copy/variant of the Walther PP (and 9mm Utra cartridge), whereas the Radom P-64 is a modified copy of the Walther PPK, with P-64 also chambered in 9mm Marakov.
All of these pistols are double-action blow-backs, have fixed barrels, barrel enclosed mainsprings, and triggerguard fieldstrip takedown.
If you like the PPK and want it in a slightly larger cartridge, check out the Polish Radom P-64.
Not unlike the diff between oranges and tangerines...yet delicious and satisfying.
The East German Makarov PM is a modlified copy/variant of the Walther PP (and 9mm Utra cartridge), whereas the Radom P-64 is a modified copy of the Walther PPK, with P-64 also chambered in 9mm Marakov.
All of these pistols are double-action blow-backs, have fixed barrels, barrel enclosed mainsprings, and triggerguard fieldstrip takedown.
If you like the PPK and want it in a slightly larger cartridge, check out the Polish Radom P-64.
Not unlike the diff between oranges and tangerines...yet delicious and satisfying.
P-64 DA Failure
I have a 1975 mfg P-64. It is a great shooter, very accurate, and suffers from the same trigger pull and recoil irritants expressed by others on this forum. However, mine has an additional problem. After racking a round in chamber and then decocking the piece, it will not fire in double action. You have to manually cock it and fire. I've had it looked at by my favorite gunsmith, and he could not find a reason for this malfunction. Is there anyone out there who has experienced the same problem?
I have a 1975 mfg P-64. It is a great shooter, very accurate, and suffers from the same trigger pull and recoil irritants expressed by others on this forum. However, mine has an additional problem. After racking a round in chamber and then decocking the piece, it will not fire in double action. You have to manually cock it and fire. I've had it looked at by my favorite gunsmith, and he could not find a reason for this malfunction. Is there anyone out there who has experienced the same problem?
I like mine so much I bought another! Best $250 I ever spent. I'm lucky I guess the 64 never bothered my hand shooting and the strange thing is its the most accurate gun I ever shot. The DA is ungodly and I swapped out the spring but then I was getting unintentional double taps. I think the ultra heavy DA is a good safety thing for a CC gun and besides I just found it faster and easier to just thumb back the hammer and drop it when I'm shooting at the range. Besides you can shoot mak ammo all day long on the cheap. Built like a tank never had a jam or FTF or anything
EIGHTYDUECE
New member
The East German Makarov is a true Makarov pistol. True Makarov pistols are only Russian, Bulgarian, Chinese and East German. The Polish P-64, Hungarian P-63 and CZ-82 are not Makarovs. They are completely different autopistols chambered in the 9x18 Makarov cartridge. Because they shoot the same round, people use the Makarov term loosely.
The East German Makarov is the finest of the true Makarovs.
The East German Makarov is the finest of the true Makarovs.
Good information on the P 64 but where do these two year old posts come from?
Since I am here..... my P64's, even with the spring kit, are unacceptable for me and I personally would not carry one while better weapons are available. But I am old and cannot take the recoil I once could. One of mine is virtually new and has Maraschall grips while the second is a bit more used and has a very difficult decocker bordering on dangerous to manipulate. My PA 63 and CZ 82's are a totally different story, neat shooters even my SMC (PPK sized PA 63) are all accurate and reliable. I guess if I had to pick just one of the Combloc pistols it would be my EG Mak.
Since I am here..... my P64's, even with the spring kit, are unacceptable for me and I personally would not carry one while better weapons are available. But I am old and cannot take the recoil I once could. One of mine is virtually new and has Maraschall grips while the second is a bit more used and has a very difficult decocker bordering on dangerous to manipulate. My PA 63 and CZ 82's are a totally different story, neat shooters even my SMC (PPK sized PA 63) are all accurate and reliable. I guess if I had to pick just one of the Combloc pistols it would be my EG Mak.
I have a couple of Bulgie Maks and love them. I have the CZ-82 and it is a sweet shooter, even have a FEG63 and did the spring switch and enjoy it. Shot a friends P64 AFTER the spring change, made it through two mags and said I'm done. Hated everything about it and the recoil especially was harsh and I enjoy shooting big bore revolvers.
Cheapshooter
New member
I don't consider any of my milsurps carry guns. With the possible exception of my CZ82 which did reside in my truck's console for a while. But never as a CCW.
But for fun range blasters, my P-64 is right along with my E. German Mak, the 82, and a handful of TT33 variants.
Ignition Override
New member
Other than enjoying practicing with it, I really like the three P-64s carried by three friends down in n.w. MS.
My used ss Sig 232 cost only $450 last month, with little wear (and owner's box, lock etc) and is as much fun to shoot as my Sauer 38H and Mauser Hsc.
The P-64 is an impressive, excellent "carry gun".
My used ss Sig 232 cost only $450 last month, with little wear (and owner's box, lock etc) and is as much fun to shoot as my Sauer 38H and Mauser Hsc.
The P-64 is an impressive, excellent "carry gun".
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