Old gummed up 1911A1

Simple Penetrating Fluid

On one of the machinist hobby sites they listed the
rates of penetration and foot pound releases:


Their most effective was transmission fluid and ammonia.
I can attest to its effectiveness.

I use this combo over my go-to-since 1967 Kroil:

A mixture of 7 parts of automatic transmission fluid
and 3 parts of ammonia. Note: since transmission
fluid is hydroscopic you must re-oil when parts are separated.

As for rust removal, again I have tested and used frequently, a bath
of white vinegar for total immersion. In a few hours or over
night you will see the rust gone. Then I neutralize with baking soda
and water. Do not leave in longer than necessary else the slime
re-coats.

Minimizes amount of clean metal that must be polished away.
 
Topos, that is completely wrong. The mix is 50/50 acetone and tranny fluid. I think you meant hygroscopic as well, but tranny fluid doesn't draw moisture. Vineager WILL remove bluing. I'd bet the ammonia will discolor it or harm it as well, not sure about it.
 
FWIW,early in a gunsmith friend's enterprize,he soaked a S+W 29 nickel plated cylinder in Hoppe's #9.Took off the nickel.

Schueman barrels is one of the Cadillac 1911 barrel makers.If you go to their site,and explore "cleaning" you will find Mr Schueman's opinions on using chlorinated hydrocarbons such as TCE,present in brake cleaners,etc.

It has to do wioth 416 stainless,sulphur in the steel,and problems.

Not all "good ideas" are good ideas.

Boiling water was a fine idea.Some things are water soluble and not oil soluble.

Most of the suggestions (Kroil,solvent,kerosene,ATF,etc)are all commonly used and fine.
 
I can't believe nobody posted this before...

PICTURES!?

The kerosene/boiling 2-step process has worked for me in the past as well; on things stuck much worse than a 1911 slide.
 
Kerosene

Kerosene will penetrate most anything. Machine shop teacher told us years ago to clean machined metal after you have use a cutting tool (honing out cylinders on engine block) with kerosene. Kerosene "floats" the metal particles out of the pores of the metal and lets you wipe the metal clean. Gasoline pushes the particles back into the pores of the metal.
 
Kerosene will free anything up given enough time. It took three months but it freed up this 92 Winchester I dug up metal detecting.

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Kerosene works great over time depending on how bad it is.

Ultrasonic cleaners if you have acess to one big enough are also good.

For pistol sized parts we have an old pressure cooker that is filled with kerosene and has an air valve on top. Put the part inside and then pressurize to 12psi. Seems to help drive the solvent into the nooks and crannies. Here in az if you leave it in the sun a few days you get the heat helping as well
 
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