i finally saved and borrowed a little to get another gun. i have a 4 inch blued service six now, i want a smaller gun for carry in 357. are most new guns ok?, i see a lot of people returning them. should i get a used one if i can find any?, most my local shops have only new guns. i want something in stainless or in something that is more rust resistant than blue. it has to be easy to conceal and holsters and acc. need to be available. i have $600 to spend on the gun alone, so let me know what everyone would recommend. thanks for any help
ok the time has come, what model?
- Thread starter old fart
- Start date
I probably wouldn't reply if this thread were more developed, but it's early so I'll throw a log on the fire.
Small .357 revolvers with .357 ammo are pure human torture to shoot so I really don't care for them. Even still, if that is what you WILL buy next, I think it's not a far stretch to imagine that you won't shoot it a lot.
Given that it may be far more carry than shooting, I would like the Ruger LCR in this role. Not expensive, light for carry and solid enough that it will provide a solid service life.
Small .357 revolvers with .357 ammo are pure human torture to shoot so I really don't care for them. Even still, if that is what you WILL buy next, I think it's not a far stretch to imagine that you won't shoot it a lot.
Given that it may be far more carry than shooting, I would like the Ruger LCR in this role. Not expensive, light for carry and solid enough that it will provide a solid service life.
Obambulate
New member
Smith & Wesson Model 60 or 640. Stainless steel J-frame .357 5-shot. The 60 has an exposed hammer, the 640 has a concealed hammer.
Without a doubt this can be true. YMMV.
LCR is inside your budget...
http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/69296
And of course if you're willing to spend a little more money or go used there are *lots* of S&W J-frames out there.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...rResults=&useFilter=&identifier=1424631312760
lee n. field
New member
Most new guns are OK
Where do you see a lot of people returning them?
Used is always an option (but mind the warranty). Read or refresh your memory on Jim March's revolver inspection procedure document. Highly recommended.
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Given that, first choice, Ruger SP101. Second choice, Taurus 605. Equivalent S&W, I think, will run you more than you want to spend for a new gun.
Mind what Mr. "Sevens" said. I've shot maybe 2 cylnders of .357 though my Taurus 605, in all the time I've owned it. This is only a couple ounces lighter than the SP101. Shooting .357 is enough to make me check the gun to make sure it hasn't broken.
Shoot .38 special, as hot as you want, through your .357 snubby.
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PatientWolf
New member
+1 on the SP-101 with the 3" barrel.
Another plus for the SP101.
Recoil is more subjective than you might suppose. My SP101 is punishing to my ears, even with protection, but I've never found the recoil to be particularly bad.
Try before buy, if you can.
I wouldn't carry .357 for SD due simply to the noise factor. I have a ringing in my left ear from a single session of .357 practice with a S&W 66 back in 1992.
Recoil is more subjective than you might suppose. My SP101 is punishing to my ears, even with protection, but I've never found the recoil to be particularly bad.
Try before buy, if you can.
I wouldn't carry .357 for SD due simply to the noise factor. I have a ringing in my left ear from a single session of .357 practice with a S&W 66 back in 1992.
gbclarkson
New member
Is your heart set on stainless? I wonder why rust resistance is an issue. Every gun is rust resistant as long as you keep it dry. I agree with Sevens: go with the Ruger LCR.
The only Ruger LCR w/a 3" barrel has snaggy "target" sights. The rest are all 1.85" barrels using grooved rear sights like the SP101. With a <2" barrel. a .357 round is going to have an appreciable increase in muzzle blast/noise over a .38 Spl +P 129+/- grain bullet, and not an appreciable effect on a target that is 7 yards away or less (in a SD/HD sit).
http://www.ruger.com/products/lcr/models.html
I noticed that all of Ruger's LCR Hogue grip models have a 2-finger groove grip. That leaves the pinky waving around with nothing to grasp, and thus no advantage over the factory short grips on an SP101.
I have average hands with long "piano-player" fingers, and I needed to have a larger (length and width wise) grip in order to press the trigger with just the pad of my index finger (aka, the 1911 finger press), rather than wrapping it around the trigger with my trigger-finger JOINT on the trigger, which usually causes the shot to go low and to the left from POA.
That is why I went with this:
I still vote for the 3" SP101. When I got the gun, the DA trigger pull was VERY hard/stiff and cocking the gun single action was worse than any Smith (or Ruger SA BH/SBH) I have ever handled. No manner or frequency of dry-firing altered that. I have since replaced the mainspring and the trigger spring with Wolff parts (9# trigger spring and 12# mainspring) The gun reliably ignited the primer and fires the cartridge, notwithstanding some folks who advise against doing such modifications. Sweet!
If one buys the .357 version, one can still fire .38 SPL cartridges of one's choice.
It still prints (concealed) somewhat smaller than the more flat-sided 1911 Government Model .45 stainless clone that I carry and is much lighter. And, to much consternation from some, I use a Clipdraw on both firearms rather than an IWB holster. I'm 62 and don't run anymore. These inexpensive units work well for my purposes.
[I guess 8 rounds of 230 gr. lead is a bit heavier than 5 rounds of 129 gr. lead. Both rounds are (I'm old school) Federal HydraShoks.]
Jim
http://www.ruger.com/products/lcr/models.html
I noticed that all of Ruger's LCR Hogue grip models have a 2-finger groove grip. That leaves the pinky waving around with nothing to grasp, and thus no advantage over the factory short grips on an SP101.
I have average hands with long "piano-player" fingers, and I needed to have a larger (length and width wise) grip in order to press the trigger with just the pad of my index finger (aka, the 1911 finger press), rather than wrapping it around the trigger with my trigger-finger JOINT on the trigger, which usually causes the shot to go low and to the left from POA.
That is why I went with this:
I still vote for the 3" SP101. When I got the gun, the DA trigger pull was VERY hard/stiff and cocking the gun single action was worse than any Smith (or Ruger SA BH/SBH) I have ever handled. No manner or frequency of dry-firing altered that. I have since replaced the mainspring and the trigger spring with Wolff parts (9# trigger spring and 12# mainspring) The gun reliably ignited the primer and fires the cartridge, notwithstanding some folks who advise against doing such modifications. Sweet!
If one buys the .357 version, one can still fire .38 SPL cartridges of one's choice.
It still prints (concealed) somewhat smaller than the more flat-sided 1911 Government Model .45 stainless clone that I carry and is much lighter. And, to much consternation from some, I use a Clipdraw on both firearms rather than an IWB holster. I'm 62 and don't run anymore. These inexpensive units work well for my purposes.
[I guess 8 rounds of 230 gr. lead is a bit heavier than 5 rounds of 129 gr. lead. Both rounds are (I'm old school) Federal HydraShoks.]
Jim
Waspinator
New member
And.......
Another vote for a Ruger SP101.
They are good sized guns for a 357 magnum. They have the weight to actually shoot a magnum round if you are so inclined but small enough to conceal well. I shoot at least 100 rounds every range trip with my SP101. That is the thing about these guns, they are a good gun to actually shoot, not just carry and shoot occasionally.
Another vote for a Ruger SP101.
They are good sized guns for a 357 magnum. They have the weight to actually shoot a magnum round if you are so inclined but small enough to conceal well. I shoot at least 100 rounds every range trip with my SP101. That is the thing about these guns, they are a good gun to actually shoot, not just carry and shoot occasionally.
It will be over $600 I think
I have the S&W 640-3. I enjoy the gun and carry it often. For the sake of full disclosure I will admit that I have never fired .357 Magnum from this or any other J frame gun. But, because it is solid stainless steel it is comfortable to shoot at the range with .38 Special. I carry +P SJHP ammo in it with confidence.
I have the S&W 640-3. I enjoy the gun and carry it often. For the sake of full disclosure I will admit that I have never fired .357 Magnum from this or any other J frame gun. But, because it is solid stainless steel it is comfortable to shoot at the range with .38 Special. I carry +P SJHP ammo in it with confidence.
ammo.crafter
New member
revolver?
Is a .357 must?
As the others have said, it is not pleasant to shoot on a regular basis...enough to become proficient.
The old FBI .38spcl load is fairly potent and kicks less than the .357. And there is always .38spcl +P as well.
Try these along with the .357 before you make your purchase.
Is a .357 must?
As the others have said, it is not pleasant to shoot on a regular basis...enough to become proficient.
The old FBI .38spcl load is fairly potent and kicks less than the .357. And there is always .38spcl +P as well.
Try these along with the .357 before you make your purchase.
fiveninestexas
New member
I agree with a previous poster that a small .357 is a handful to shoot. I have a 640 S&W that I take out occasionally, and I like it for what it is... BUT it's not something I'd care to put a box of rounds through like I might with a larger-framed .357.
thought i would update, i went to lgs today and the prices were not good in my area. the lcr 357 were out and the price was $540.00 otd if they had them, the sp 101 was in stock $575 otd. but it was tight on 2 chambers and loose on the other three, i would hope all should be consistant. also while not bad the barrel was slightly canted. the manager did give what i think is a deal on a gun i really liked the feel of. i started looking at autos, i got a brand new beretta nano for $279 otd, i love how this gun feels. when i got home i called beretta to register it and the lady was very nice, i asked her about the guide rod which is polymer, i have heard steel is better but seems everyone is using polymer or almost everyone. she said as a new customer she would send me an extra guide rod free to have on hand but she doubted i would ever need it. haven't shot it yet but really like the feel and it will hide great in a desantis sof tuk. thanks everyone for your help, i was thinking revolver and ruger more than the others at that, but things change i guess. hope i did good as i think i did.