Not sure where im loosing accuracy
- Thread starter idigg
- Start date
Used weapon so I would do the following:
1) clean the barrel to a fair thee well. Copper remover, then remoil with a bore snake, and then take a CBS and do it again (copper remover with brush followed by Remoil and a bore snake). Should be good to go.
2) Since you swapped to a Boyd's, you have to bed it properly. Watch a video on Youtube. Should be able to slide a matchbook properly through it. Floating and bedding is the big deal.
3) Buy a scope kit from Wheeler Engineering on MidwayUSA.
4) Get a respectable scope base. Nightforce is like $100 on MidwayUSA. I use them or Badger Ordnance exclusively.
5) Rings - get high quality rings. I only use serial numbered match Badger ordnance. Best $150 you will ever spend IMHO.
6) Glass - totally up to your budget and your eye. I have glass by a bunch of manufacturers: Leupold (LR/T), Pentax (Lightseeker 30), Springfield Government, Zeiss, Nikon, Bushnell.
7) Cheek weld pad. OK - I admit I am cheap there. I spent maybe $75 on my cheek pads.
8) Chron your rifle on a specific load and only use that load. Once you have the best load for your weapon (I prefer Lake City Long Range, or Black Hills Red Box) contact Kenton and get tuned trajectory compensators.
http://kentonindustries.com/category/custom-turrets
Here are my two 700 Police and my 700 XHR with the Boyds thumbhole stock:
1) clean the barrel to a fair thee well. Copper remover, then remoil with a bore snake, and then take a CBS and do it again (copper remover with brush followed by Remoil and a bore snake). Should be good to go.
2) Since you swapped to a Boyd's, you have to bed it properly. Watch a video on Youtube. Should be able to slide a matchbook properly through it. Floating and bedding is the big deal.
3) Buy a scope kit from Wheeler Engineering on MidwayUSA.
4) Get a respectable scope base. Nightforce is like $100 on MidwayUSA. I use them or Badger Ordnance exclusively.
5) Rings - get high quality rings. I only use serial numbered match Badger ordnance. Best $150 you will ever spend IMHO.
6) Glass - totally up to your budget and your eye. I have glass by a bunch of manufacturers: Leupold (LR/T), Pentax (Lightseeker 30), Springfield Government, Zeiss, Nikon, Bushnell.
7) Cheek weld pad. OK - I admit I am cheap there. I spent maybe $75 on my cheek pads.
8) Chron your rifle on a specific load and only use that load. Once you have the best load for your weapon (I prefer Lake City Long Range, or Black Hills Red Box) contact Kenton and get tuned trajectory compensators.
http://kentonindustries.com/category/custom-turrets
Here are my two 700 Police and my 700 XHR with the Boyds thumbhole stock:
"everywhere else ive read, and asked, people have said that splitting old reloads is common, and wouldnt affect accuracy."
I beg to differ. I've had what turned out to be bad brass do that on the first firing. Brass was brand new Remington.
The load was a known accuracy load and necks split on firing. I had to break down about 185 rounds, some of which split when pulling the bullets. Salvaged the primers and powder and annealed the necks on that brass and they work just fine. It's called season cracked, usually from work hardened brass on as in my case probably a final annealing was missed.
All I can add is the ones that didn't crack grouped fairly nicely as expected but when one went astray, sure as God little green peanuts the neck would be cracked.
Paul B.
I beg to differ. I've had what turned out to be bad brass do that on the first firing. Brass was brand new Remington.
The load was a known accuracy load and necks split on firing. I had to break down about 185 rounds, some of which split when pulling the bullets. Salvaged the primers and powder and annealed the necks on that brass and they work just fine. It's called season cracked, usually from work hardened brass on as in my case probably a final annealing was missed.All I can add is the ones that didn't crack grouped fairly nicely as expected but when one went astray, sure as God little green peanuts the neck would be cracked.
Paul B.
Pathfinder45
New member
Thanks for reporting back! It's encouraging to know that we gave helpful advice and that things worked out so well.
I traded for a Tupper ware 700 3006, and after some pillar and plastic steel bedding, good bases and rings and decent glass, handloading and a knowledge of the old style 700 trigger, I have a rifle that will shoot with anyone's body stock factory barreled 700.
Don't let people tell you it's impossible to make tupperware stocks great, because when you're poor like me, it's not always feasible to spend bucks where there's no real need.
My rifle is a factory 24", 1:10" twist with a recessed muzzle crown, the original trigger was terrible and thanks to the Remington Crisp is now a wonderful trigger that breaks like glass at 2.5 lbs.
It also has 6 different handload that it shoots well enough to kill at 400 yds if necessary, and it's light for what it is.
Since the op's start of this thread I thought maybe it was wrong screw torque and copper fouling, glad that's all cool now, so go enjoy that rifle man and start handloading if you can.....
Don't let people tell you it's impossible to make tupperware stocks great, because when you're poor like me, it's not always feasible to spend bucks where there's no real need.
My rifle is a factory 24", 1:10" twist with a recessed muzzle crown, the original trigger was terrible and thanks to the Remington Crisp is now a wonderful trigger that breaks like glass at 2.5 lbs.
It also has 6 different handload that it shoots well enough to kill at 400 yds if necessary, and it's light for what it is.
Since the op's start of this thread I thought maybe it was wrong screw torque and copper fouling, glad that's all cool now, so go enjoy that rifle man and start handloading if you can.....
FrankenMauser
New member
Thank you for updating, good deal.
I have a bit different recommendation for cleaning rifles these days.
Bore Tech eliminator. Its a very good copper cleaner, maybe the best, bio degradable, no smell (an issue ion my house) and it has a darned good carbon cleaner.
That's my go to for a suspect barrel, used gun.
After that there is another product that is fully Carbon oriented, Carbon Killer 2000.
I have two barrel that would not clean up with my regular (plus the smell) this did it just fine.
I do leave the Carbon Killer in 20 minutes, swab it in, then patches followed by repeat if needed and use of a nylon or brass brush.
Bore tech only if its going South but have not had that issue (my shooting is another story of course)
I have a bit different recommendation for cleaning rifles these days.
Bore Tech eliminator. Its a very good copper cleaner, maybe the best, bio degradable, no smell (an issue ion my house) and it has a darned good carbon cleaner.
That's my go to for a suspect barrel, used gun.
After that there is another product that is fully Carbon oriented, Carbon Killer 2000.
I have two barrel that would not clean up with my regular (plus the smell) this did it just fine.
I do leave the Carbon Killer in 20 minutes, swab it in, then patches followed by repeat if needed and use of a nylon or brass brush.
Bore tech only if its going South but have not had that issue (my shooting is another story of course)
" the shadow you get around the outside of the scope... aka if you hold your eye too far back.. does that affect your shot, and how much? i feel like an idiot, because after all these years, i never really took that into consideration. 2 things... how much accuracy do you loose if you have that "ring" off centered? and how much accuracy do you loose if you have your eye too far back, and thus, have a thick ring?"
You shouldn't be seeing a "shadow around the outside of the scope". If you are, reset the scope to proper position.
You shouldn't be seeing a "shadow around the outside of the scope". If you are, reset the scope to proper position.
A really basic principle of process improvement is to make only one change at a time.
Know why you made the change.Have a hypothesis of what the improvement will be.
Then test it.You will have a pretty good idea what that one change will do.
With two changes,one may show gain,while the other shows loss.
You learn nothing.The rifle "Shoots about the same" You jump to a conclusion,and buy a barrel you don't need!One change!! Test!!.Log the results,so you can review 2 years from now.
Cleaning,just don't mix copper removers.Different formulas don't react together well,and your barrel steel may suffer.Bore Tech Eliminator is good.
The copper solvents eat bronze brushes.I like the Montana black nylon ones.
On your scope eye relief,if you shorten it too much,your scope will bust your eyebrow.Really bad idea.
But you want full field.No black ring.
Old brass splitting..While old ammo can be just fine,old reloads...who knows?
They could have been cleaned with Brasso or had other exposure to ammonia.The powder may be deteriorating.The brass may have been loaded 9 times.
I would quit shooting it.Stray gas is bad.
Keep us posted.
Know why you made the change.Have a hypothesis of what the improvement will be.
Then test it.You will have a pretty good idea what that one change will do.
With two changes,one may show gain,while the other shows loss.
You learn nothing.The rifle "Shoots about the same" You jump to a conclusion,and buy a barrel you don't need!One change!! Test!!.Log the results,so you can review 2 years from now.
Cleaning,just don't mix copper removers.Different formulas don't react together well,and your barrel steel may suffer.Bore Tech Eliminator is good.
The copper solvents eat bronze brushes.I like the Montana black nylon ones.
On your scope eye relief,if you shorten it too much,your scope will bust your eyebrow.Really bad idea.
But you want full field.No black ring.
Old brass splitting..While old ammo can be just fine,old reloads...who knows?
They could have been cleaned with Brasso or had other exposure to ammonia.The powder may be deteriorating.The brass may have been loaded 9 times.
I would quit shooting it.Stray gas is bad.
Keep us posted.