nikon prostaff scopes

scope

JD, The guys have given some excellent rason's for the issues you are having.
Soemtimes if the scope is canted a tad that will affect shot group. If the rings are not tightened the same on both sides that can also cause a slight force pull to the over tightened side. I think you are wise to consider remounting the scope after the season. Maybe some friction tape or lapping will help. It has been my experience that the problems are usually in the mounting but sometimes there can be a scope issue as well.
 
I agree with what they have said on the scope moving. Last night while cleaning my 270 i pulled the 243 back out of the safe and took a good look at the scope. i grabbed ahold of it and tried to move it and at one point i thought it may have just a little bit. when i set the scope on the rings im 95% sure that i put the front ring all the way as far forward as it would go and after looking at it last night it looks as tho it may have slid forward about a 1/4 of an inch. This may be my problem. If this is the problem and all my bolts are tight what can i do to keep it from moving?
 
scope

Friction tape or lapping would be my suggestion. Quality rings are definitely worth the money as well. Just be careful when tightening the rings if you use a friction tape.
 
i understand the quality rings. the bad part about the ruger is that weaver stlyle rings will not work on it becuase of the way the top of the barrell is made. So there for you have to buy the rings from ruger or someone that sells the ruger rings, which is what i did and they were 30 bucks a piece. Friction tape and laping compound is that something i need to get from a gun shop or can i get it else where?
 
ruger high.jpg here is a picture of the ring that i use. this is a generic picture off of the web but as you can see the round notches at the bottom of the ring and that has to sit inside the top of the barrell
 
scope

You might want to have your gun shop mount the scope and ask them to lap the rings. Increases surface area of scope and ring contact. No reason to buy all of it if you will not be mounting a lot of different scopes. With scope moving you will defintely need to shoot it again before hunting with it.
 
I have a local shop that can do it (i hope) and im getting ready to purchase another nikon for my 270 so i just might as well have them do both at the same time
 
I've dealt with the Ruger rings on my old M77MkII. My rings slipped scopes all the time, so I had to use witness marks constantly to make sure it wasn't moving. I ended up using a thin strip of extremely fine grit sandpaper (I think it was 1000grit) in the ring surface to get the rings to stick to the scope, which worked pretty well.
I've also heard of folks using temporary/weak loctite as well as strips of rough finished masking tape inside of rings to hold the scopes. It's basically a WECSOG version of the Burris Signature Zee ring insert system, but it works.
 
I never thought of locktite. I have some hear at work that is called a "bearing retainer" and its just supposed to keep them from spinning. essentially doing the same thing with the scope
 
if the high grit paper and loctight dont work you may have had something shake loose. as much as I love nikon, every company can turn out a bad one every once in a while. I had a cheap little barska 4x scope on a 22 and I yoosta-could hit empty 22 casings at 50 yards with it but now I can barely squeeze ak47 groups out of that 22.
 
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