Newbie to revolvers---------shooting .38s/.357

Bacchus- As you yourself noted the .357 Magnum chamber most certainly is larger than the .38 Special chamber. They have the same diameter, but the .357 chamber is longer. This means that the bullet travels further after leaving the case before engaging the rifling. This gives it more opportunit to tip as it enters the rifling and this generally speaking is bad for accuracy. Serious target shooters will load bullets out and often have shallow chambers to get the bullet into the rifling ASAP. I suspect the longer chamber also allows more expanding gas to escape because I can assure you, without hesitation, that every .38 Special load I have tested showed reduced velocity when fired from a .357.

If you shoot .38 Special ammo, and want maximum performance, I recommend a .38 Special revolver.
 
I recommend a .38 revolver because you will only be shooting .38 loads.

The .357 Magnum loads need to be shot alot if you are going to have any proficiency.

Most people that buy .357 revolvers only shoot .38 loads at the range and then use .357 loads for carry. This practice is foolish because these guys will not have much proficiency with their magnum carry.

Better to just use a standard .38 revolver like the S&W M10 or the Colt Official Police if you are only going to shoot .38's at the range.
 
.38/.357

I highly recommend the S&W model 686 to you. In my opinion it is the "industry standard". No problem with using .38 spec. ammo, I practice with it a lot.
It is a fine/fun revolver!!!
 
Welcome to T.F.L. NE20quail

I want to start out buy telling you that there is almost no difference in the length between a .38spl cylinder and a .357MAG cylinder. The .357MAG cylinder is only .0060 of an inch longer then the .38spl cylinder, not even noticeable buy the human eye. The only difference between a .38 and a .357 revolver is that the .357 case is tapered and the .38spl case is not. When I find my Cartridge Digest I will give you the exact dimensions. They maybe different in size at the base, but they are almost exactly same at the rim.
You will not lose any accuracy if you buy a .357MAG over a .38spl, and you will get a better all around revolver if you buy a .357MAG.
These are the guns that I suggest.
If you are on a budget:
S&W-M19
Ruger Security Six
If you want compact:
Ruger SP-101
S&W-Models,60, 640, and 649
If you want a cannon:
S&W- 686+
Ruger- GP100
And if you have extra cash: :cool:
S&W-PC 627
Colt Python
 
Ken, I'm afraid you have to get your eye recalibrated, it seems to be out of adjustment. :)

The .357 Mag case is .135" longer than a .38 Spcl. I tumble both types of cases together and it is very easy to tell them apart when separating them. Neither caliber case is tapered, they are both .379" in diameter from top of rim to mouth. (Although there will be variations on cases after firing and resizing, i.e., that measurement is nominal only.)
 
Mal H, whos eyes need to be recalibrated

Now where did I say anything about the length of the cases. If you re-read my post you will see that I said that the revolver cylinders where the same length, not the cases.
Tomorrow I will look up the information on the dimensions of both the .38spl and .357Mag cases. :)
 
Ah ha, cylinder! You're right, I missed that. What threw me off was when you said, "The only difference between a .38 and a .357 revolver is that the .357 case is tapered and the .38spl case is not." That statement in conjunction with the measurement statement made me think you were talking of cases not cylinders. I think you will find that the internal length of the cylinder before the chamfer for most .38 Spcl cylinders will closely match the case length of its intended round, likewise for the .357. Therefore there will be more than a 6 thou difference in length. Otherwise you would be able to cram a .357 Mag round in a .38 Spcl revolver and chances are good that it would fire given the differences in crimps and the tolerances from the rear cylinder face to breech face.
 
Basically, I thought I was going to shoot 38 specials out of my .357 when I first got it years ago. It was a big heavy ruger blackhawk with a 6" barrel.
I found the 38 special was so lacking in fun to shoot, I never purchased another box of 38 special ammo again.
Years later, I got a light 4" dan wesson compact frame .357, and understand why some people would want to shoot reduced power loads.
The only reason I would use 38 spl, loads is if I got a revolver that was so light, that shooting full power 125 grn .357 magnum, or reduced power 158 grain .357 magnums hurt my hand, or that recoil made the gun impossible to shoot accurately.
If you're gonna carry an airweight j-frame smith that weighs slightly more than 10-11 ounces, get the 38 sepecial, so you won't be tempted to shoot full-power loads through it.
If you get a heavy 4 inch model that's 35 ounces or better, get the .357 mag, and don't even bother with 38 special loads, thay're not any fun.
If you get a medium weight 2"-3" revolver between 20-30 ounces, you can shoot .357 magnum 158 grain reduced power loads for protection, and probably want to shoot 38 spl loads through it occasionally for hour long sessions at the range.
There's no reason to shoot 38 spl through a heavy 4" 357 mag revolver.
(It's cheaper, but no fun)
Keep shootin'
Just my .02
 
Mr. Chavez is incorrect when he says there is no performance loss when firing .38 Specials from a Magnum chamber. I have tested this many times with my own guns and trust me, the .38 Special performs better in velocity and accuracy from a .38 revolver than from a Magnum chamber. For plinking, who cares? But if you want best performance from a .38, buy a gun in that caliber.

Yes, the Special and Magnum cases are the same in all regards except length. As for the cylinders on the guns, this will vary from one manufacturer to another but most .38 Special revolvers (the small guns like the M36 S&W are the exceptions) actually have a long enough cylinder to accept a .357 Magnum cartridge if the shoulders inside the chambers are reamed out. The shoulders are intended to prevent loading Magnums into a .38 gun, but many guns have been modified this way and some brave souls use Magnums in their .38s. A bad idea on a good quality gun and a terrible idea with a cheap one.
 
:rolleyes:
let's get back to the real world for a second and leave all these intrinsic accuracy *facts* to the side for a moment, K? There is not now, nor has there ever been, nor it there likely to EVER be anyone,,and I mean anyone,,that will be able to tell the difference between a .38 Special fired from a KSP-831X,,the 3 1/16 in fixed sight small frame Ruger in .38 Special or the KSP-331X,,the 3 1/16 in fixed sight small frame Ruger in .357 Magnum. PROVIDED both are in proper spec!!!
IT AIN"T GONNA HAPPEN!
I'll even go so far as to say that given the choices listed, there won't be a practical difference between them fired from a rested position.
Maybe, just maybe, if you clamp them into a machine rest the .38 Only will show an edge.

Yes,,,in a medium or large frame,,6 inch barrel,,.38 Specail vs a .357 Mag,,,there's going to be bunches of people that can tell the difference. Yes, I've shot a full race Clark heavy barrel Smith model 10 ( a .38 Special only and tuned for 148gr HBWC),,,,at a price of about 2 and a half grand,, I might add,,and I've shot my own Model 19's (.38/.357) in both 4" and 6" barrels at the same range and on the same day. Yes, the race gun outshot my box stock 19's. We're talking about 1 inch vs 1/2 inch offhand at 25 feet here though!

NE20quail,
Given the choices you narrowed it down to I'd have to say the Ruger,,being a heavier and slightly larger gun than the Model 60 would be a better choice for a beginner. Speaking oly for myself, I'm rather immune to recoil and muzzle blast. It usually doesn't bother me in the least. HOWEVER, if I'd have started out with a small, light frame, semi snub nose like a Model 60 I highly doubt if I'd have bought another D/A revolver. Look real close at both, and dry fire the heck out of them in the store if they let you. Personally, I find the small frame Smiths uncomfortable and the trigger pull all outta proprortion.

Oh yeah, and FWIW, I've been stuffing a fired .357 case into the chambers for years as part of the cleaning process. Prior to that I used a bronze brush chucked into a drill. ( Also use a .44mag when shooting specials and a .22 Stinger when shooting .22lr). It doesn't cost anything to try it.
 
opps, forgot to ask this too. If *bullet jump* is such a major factor,,then why are flush seated 148 gr hollow based wadcutters so darned accurate in a ,38 Special? The *jump* that HBWC makes is 2 to 3 times greater than a .38 RNL makes in a .357Mag chamber.
 
We have a Taurus 605 3" in our Corporate Office. I had it disassembled and refinnished with a heavy Matte Black coating for optinal corrosion protection. It was put back together by a very proficient Gunsmith and it is tight. The thing bucks like a mule with .357 Fodder. The grips would "wobble" around due to the recoil. I fixed this by taking them apart and applying a black, toughened superglue much like you would a liquid gasket preparation on the inside edges and it stopped. I much prefer the Uncle Mike's that are standard on my Model 60 2" .357 Mag. They are a little harder than the Taurus and Hogue Rubber handles but they stay together.
 
Mr. SaxonPig you are incorrect. I have to agree with RAE's statemant in regards to accuracy or velocity if you where to use the same guns that RAE talked about.
Mr. SaxonPig what I suggest you do is go to a gun store tomorrow and check the same Rugers that RAE pointed out. Compare the two guns side by side, you will see that you cannot see any difference between the two guns. Pay very close attention to the length of the cylinders, you will see no difference in length between the two cylinders. Then look at a Smith and Wesson's Models 637 and 60 or Models 337Ti and 360Sc, you will see that the cylinders are also the same size on these models. Then look at Colt or Taurus you will see the same similaritys. With this in mind the neck of both the .38sp and .357Mag are .379", the bullet size on the .38sp and .357Mag are both .3565". Keeping all this in mind I do not see how you can say that there is a difference in accuracy and velocity? ;)
 
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Back to the original subject.:D

I would suggest that you start out using Mr. Marsh's recommendations for checking out your new revolver. Start by looking at OLDER S&W wheelies. See if you can find a model 10 and if possible, a model 19. Chances are that you will be able to buy both of them. This will give you a great introduction to the world of revolvers.
 
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