Newbe Here, 30-30 Powder?

The Lever Revolution powder is a ball type and it flows nicely. Here is the load data that drew me to the Lever powder and of course Hogden load data:

http://www.rifleshootermag.com/ammo/ammunition_7_high_performance_loads_for_the_30-30_030811/

If you read carefully you will see the posted loads in the article were from a 20 inch barrel 336 Marlin. From the article posted above:



I see no point in pushing the Sierra 170gr load I made at 34.5gr any higher. I may push the Hornady 160gr FTX a little more. The * given for the 160 FTX, if you read the article, indicate a max. load and the ** indicates the most accurate and useful load. I tend to agree for these from my loadings thus far. Again, the table above is from a 20 inch barrel 336 per the article.

3C
 
3 Crows, that is an interesting article. I'm good with my load above,but, dang, I may have to give that Leverevolution a whirl. You know, self education and all.
 
I have a bag full of 150gr gas check lead bullets for the 30-30. So how does load data vary with gas checked lead versus non gas check, if any? Use the same powder loads as no gas check or what? I understand they are somewhat reduced loads compared to jacketed. BTW everyone appreciates the handy 20 inch carbine barrel, and that is all I ever see available, but then loading manuals use a longer barrel most of the time to achieve better MV. But that is annoying as pretty much you need a scarce or vintage gun to get the longer barrel.
 
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Gas check usage is up to you. All based on velocity, powder burn rate and how it effects erosion of the bullet in the bore. If ya feel ya need it, use it.
 
If you compare Hodgdon LVR and BL-C(2), looking at the pressure data and velocity per grains powder, they look to be nearly the same powder. Probably good substitutes for each other when you can only find one of them.
 
The Lyman Reloading Handbook has some info on that powder for 30-30. I am sorry, I do not put loads on the internet. Too easy for a finger slip to give someone a bad load. Do get the manual.
 
"A 1200 to 1600 fps 170 grain cast load from a 30-30, what can you do with that?"

Oh don't worry "that" will put down a deer or any other critter you might shoot. The trick is, with any rifle, Hit The Target! That requires that you be familiar with the gun and ammo and know how to shoot! My point is Learn to Shoot!
 
jamaica said:
The Lyman Reloading Handbook has some info on that powder for 30-30. I am sorry, I do not put loads on the internet. Too easy for a finger slip to give someone a bad load. Do get the manual.
Click to expand...

I have the Lyman manual, thank you but I do not see any 2000 fps plus cast lead loads? I asked for an example load or the data source. You say it is the Lyman manual, perhaps mine is too old to have that. Here is some, Handloader Magazine, kinda old, so might work up and my fingers did not slip at all though maybe a little doing the Mac screenshot:

https://www.riflemagazine.com/magazine/PDF/hl63partial.pdf



I shoot quite well and can hit where I aim most times, of course most people can hit where they are aiming though where they are aiming might not be where they think they are aiming ;). I would not be generally one of them. I will stay with my opinion, the OP can decide for himself, if he is willing to give up 600 or more feet per second on his 30-30. I am sure for 50 yards or so a 170 grain at a muzzle velocity of 1600 fps will be useful, at 200 yards plus, not so much. You can say what you like but you are giving up a significant amount of velocity and energy with a 170 grain cast lead over a full power 160/170 grain jacketed load at 2200 to 2400 fps.

And that was the point I was making with the 45-70, nothing is lost there, what velocity is given up, if any, for cast lead is easy to gain back by throwing a heavier bullet. Maybe if there was a 200-230 grain cast lead that would cycle, is there for the 30-30, if so!

So I went looking. It does appear some folks are driving GC hard cast lead up to 2200 fps! Interesting. So that leaves only the Micro Groove rifling issue for Marlin shooters. Very interesting.

3C
 
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.30-30 was the first centerfire I reloaded and IMR3031 was good but my Marlin liked Re11. That one isn’t available anymore. So I ended up rechambering to AI. My rifle prefers the Speer 130FP and 748 but others work well too. The whole project has stalled and I’ve lost interest. The grandkids live far away so my trigger time is shrinking. The end of life approaches too fast and I feel like I spent too much time working and not enough shooting.
 
cast 30-3-

Again, I am impressed with the information on this forum. I had to laugh when I found the 4064 powder listed as the accuracy load for several cast bullets. I am going to load up a half dozen and see how I like them. Since there is hardly any place on my property that I can see 100 yards, I have no need for HOT LOADS. The deer in my area are not noted for large size and the only other beast is a bear that sometimes wanders thru and damages a fruit tree or two. I am actually going to hunt with my 6.5 Jap, since it is scoped and my old eyes take too long to focus on iron sights, but the Winchester is fun to shoot. Thanks again for all of the info. ____Grant.
 
use to reload 30-31. Didn't care for its sharp recoil.
On a tip I tried AA#2230 found it worked well for all bullets I reload_ jacketed_ Cast and paper/patched cast. Haven't found a equivalent or one better. Since 2230 is a ball powder not a stick powder so it measures well.
 
Well I finally got around to shooting a few of my cast bullet loads. I used 34 gr of 4064 and 170 gr cast bullets from a Lee mold ( they came out at 163 gr) and all seemed normal other than a grey film on the hood of my truck. I was using the truck as a rest and the cast loads gave a gray powder/film each shot. I shot some factory jacketed rounds and they didnt leave the film. I am wondering if it is from the cast bullets with gas checks being driven too fast or does 4064 tend to be a dirty powder? I got the data from the third post on this thread so it was not some home brew idea. I shot a couple without gas checks and it didnt seem to make any difference. Any ideas??? Grant.
 
I made a slight mistake in my prior comment. I do not use 2230 under paper patched cast. I do use a duplex loading for the P/p purpose. Surplus WC-860 and IMR 4227. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Thanks,M&P. I hadnt thought of that. The load seemed to shoot well with a little less recoil and noise than the factory rounds, so I will load up some more and see if they are reasonably accurate. This old Model 94 has a flip up tang sight which I dont like so I am going to put a Lyman on the receiver. I think things are going to work out well with learning to reload. Thanks All. ____Grant.
 
Months later I am back. I want to note that I made a mistake when I said I used 34 grs of 4064. It was 24 grs of IMR 4064. I have another thread about a Savage 99 that missfired. I solved that problem but my reloads are all over the paper but factory ammo seems to shoot pretty well. My bullet casting didnt turn out too well so I bought Oregon Trails 165 gr hard cast bullets in .310. I also picked up a pound of 3031 at a gun show and I think I will load up a dozen with that powder and see if it is anymore accurate. My old #44 Lyman manual shows starting at 22 grs of 3031 with 173 gr gaschecks so I will use that as a starting point for the 165 gr hard cast bullet. Another experiment but a light load experiment. Grant
 
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