New to the Firearm Hobby, Got a Few Questions
- Thread starter PAJoe1022
- Start date
I would urge caution, we never have gun safety down pat and I as well as every other owner has had their oh *)*& moments. Never let the guard down there.
One area that really bothers me is the nonsense about cleaning rods and cleaning.
While I have a fiberglass swivel rod, aluminum is fine. People will swear up and down you can wear a bore out with embedded stuff in the aluminum (and muy glass rod)
No, what you have to have is a smooth rod made of unobtanioum with just a touch of Kryptonite in it.
Its better to keep the rod clean, its not going to end the world if not
Of course you need a rod guide otherwise life as we know it will end.
If you want to see rough, look in the bore of a button rifled or cut rifled barrel, ARGH!!!
Damned if they don't shoot just fine.
Has anyone tried to wear steel out with aluminum?
You don't even wear the barrel out shooting it, you eat out the throat with gas cutting.
Keep your rod clean (whatever one you have) and no, you won't wear a barrel out cleian it.
Look up the thread on Carbon Killer 2000 and Bore Tech Eliminatgor endorsed by Unclenick and myself.
The reason I got a boro scope was I wanted to see if I was cleaning right.
Sure looking at those messy button and cut rifled barrels is interesting, but cleaning right is what counts.
Hammer forged by the way are smooth, they generally don't shoot as well as the quality of sizing is not there (some do work extras to get it)
One area that really bothers me is the nonsense about cleaning rods and cleaning.
While I have a fiberglass swivel rod, aluminum is fine. People will swear up and down you can wear a bore out with embedded stuff in the aluminum (and muy glass rod)
No, what you have to have is a smooth rod made of unobtanioum with just a touch of Kryptonite in it.
Its better to keep the rod clean, its not going to end the world if not
Of course you need a rod guide otherwise life as we know it will end.
If you want to see rough, look in the bore of a button rifled or cut rifled barrel, ARGH!!!
Damned if they don't shoot just fine.
Has anyone tried to wear steel out with aluminum?
You don't even wear the barrel out shooting it, you eat out the throat with gas cutting.
Keep your rod clean (whatever one you have) and no, you won't wear a barrel out cleian it.
Look up the thread on Carbon Killer 2000 and Bore Tech Eliminatgor endorsed by Unclenick and myself.
The reason I got a boro scope was I wanted to see if I was cleaning right.
Sure looking at those messy button and cut rifled barrels is interesting, but cleaning right is what counts.
Hammer forged by the way are smooth, they generally don't shoot as well as the quality of sizing is not there (some do work extras to get it)
Thanks for the reply. When I said I have safety down pat, I didn't mean to imply it's a learn and forget type thing. I'm aware of the mindfulness required when handling firearms.
I will look up that thread, thanks again.
You are welcome. As hard as I work at it, I have lost situational awareness more than one time. Embaressed, no one got hurt.
I will dig up the link if I can find it.
Found it: I don't know there is a wrong way to go about it but what I found works is. I do it at the range if I can with warm barrel. Goes quicker.
http://www.slip2000.com/blog/precision-shooting-magazine/
1. Carbon: Nylon brush, eye dropper bottle with eye dropper and the Carbon Killler 2000. Drip some on, through the barrel (not I don't buy that it coming out the end wrecks a muzzle)
Drizzle on some more, a few time back and forth, dry patch
Repeat until the patch comes out clean, one more dry patch to remove residue.
2. Bore Tech Eliminator: I found its not a bad carbon cleaner though not as good as Carb Killer 2000. It is good on copper. I use the same nylon brush and technique.
If its a rough barrel (nothign to do with how they shoot) it may pick up a bit of copper and then stop. Thats ok, only if it build do I clean it or an old military gun the first time.
I have had no Copper build up with my button rifle barrels, one is pretty rough.
This is the link to the thread with Unclenicks remarks in it.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596575
I will dig up the link if I can find it.
Found it: I don't know there is a wrong way to go about it but what I found works is. I do it at the range if I can with warm barrel. Goes quicker.
http://www.slip2000.com/blog/precision-shooting-magazine/
1. Carbon: Nylon brush, eye dropper bottle with eye dropper and the Carbon Killler 2000. Drip some on, through the barrel (not I don't buy that it coming out the end wrecks a muzzle)
Drizzle on some more, a few time back and forth, dry patch
Repeat until the patch comes out clean, one more dry patch to remove residue.
2. Bore Tech Eliminator: I found its not a bad carbon cleaner though not as good as Carb Killer 2000. It is good on copper. I use the same nylon brush and technique.
If its a rough barrel (nothign to do with how they shoot) it may pick up a bit of copper and then stop. Thats ok, only if it build do I clean it or an old military gun the first time.
I have had no Copper build up with my button rifle barrels, one is pretty rough.
This is the link to the thread with Unclenicks remarks in it.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596575
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Welcome.
People have been taking care of their guns using a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1 oil for generations.
Look at the owner's manuals for your guns. I have yet to see any manufacturer recommend anything other than a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1, although they will replace Hoppe's #9 with something like "a quality bore solvent" and replace "3-in-1" with "a high quality firearms oil".
Can you use other products? Yes. Will they make a difference? Probably not.
What I can give you is this testimonial. From the time I learned to shoot, I was taught to clean my guns with a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1. And that's what I did. When I was in my 30's, I was stricken by a neurological condition that almost killed me. Since just living through that took priority, my guns remained in the safe for nearly 21 years. When my thoughts returned to my guns, I was afraid of what I would find when I opened the safe. What I found was nothing. No rust. No noticeable deterioration of any kind.
If a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1 kept my guns pristine through two decades of neglect, why use anything else?
People have been taking care of their guns using a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1 oil for generations.
Look at the owner's manuals for your guns. I have yet to see any manufacturer recommend anything other than a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1, although they will replace Hoppe's #9 with something like "a quality bore solvent" and replace "3-in-1" with "a high quality firearms oil".
Can you use other products? Yes. Will they make a difference? Probably not.
What I can give you is this testimonial. From the time I learned to shoot, I was taught to clean my guns with a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1. And that's what I did. When I was in my 30's, I was stricken by a neurological condition that almost killed me. Since just living through that took priority, my guns remained in the safe for nearly 21 years. When my thoughts returned to my guns, I was afraid of what I would find when I opened the safe. What I found was nothing. No rust. No noticeable deterioration of any kind.
If a Rod, Brush, Patches, Hoppe's #9 and 3-in-1 kept my guns pristine through two decades of neglect, why use anything else?
All good advice so far. I am also a fan of Slip 2000 products - good stuff. If you really want to go down a rabbits hole with the 10/22, go over to Rimfirecentral.com. They have an entire section devoted to all manner of 10/22 subjects. You've got some neat rifles, go shoot them!
All of us were total newbs once.
I like to use chemistry instead of elbow grease when I clean my firearms. Swab the bore,let the solvent soak-an hour or more-then wipe down.
DO NOT soak any nickel guns. Hoppe's WILL remove the nickel.
A good practice is to push only one way with the cleaning rod where possible.
I like to use chemistry instead of elbow grease when I clean my firearms. Swab the bore,let the solvent soak-an hour or more-then wipe down.
DO NOT soak any nickel guns. Hoppe's WILL remove the nickel.
A good practice is to push only one way with the cleaning rod where possible.
Model12Win
Moderator
Hoppe's has no effect on nickel.
What it DOES have an effect on, is the copper substrate that the nickel is plated atop. If there are any cracks or holes in the nickel, the copper will be dissolved by the Hoppes and BINGO... off flakes the nickel!
No bueno, Scoob! No bueno!!