You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
New to reloading
- Thread starter Targa
- Start date
When you hang out at the range, inquire until you find someone local who is experienced at reloading and see if they are willing to let you learn on their equipment before you get a lot of money into it.
Read this sticky post at the top of this forum, if you haven't already. The book recommendations are fine. The ABC's of Reloading is now in its 9th edition. Advanced handloading gets you into a whole other area of detail, but most of the specialized advanced techniques are mainly useful in rifle and long-range single-shot handgun reloading, as they make improvements that, for statistical reasons, can be very hard to detect shooting pistols and revolvers handguns.
When it comes to selecting powder, there is a simple approach to use at the beginning and until you get your feet wet. Look through powder company data, like Hodgdon's, that gives measured maximum load pressures. You will notice the maximum pressures listed for different powders are not the same. That may be confusing, but what the powder maker is doing is backing down from the SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure rating by the amount of pressure variation he observed in testing. The lower that maximum pressure, the more variation the maker saw. You generally want to minimize variation where you can, so you make initial choices from among the powders with the highest pressures listed, then read to see if others have liked those powders in your chambering. The last step is important because manufacturer's testing doesn't tell you everything, like how dirty the powder burned or how well it does with powder position changes in the case.
The reason powders with a lot of variation are still listed is for people who already have those powders on hand and who want to avoid the expense of an additional powder and are therefore willing to make do. Since you haven't bought powder yet, pick two or three that have the highest maximum pressures listed and who's load range, from start to finish corresponds to a velocity range you want. Read about them and note which one comes closest to serving your purposes. Commonly, the final choice is simply the one that works well in the largest number of different cartridges you load for. If you can narrow your powder choice like that and test it with a single pound first and find that satisfactory, that makes it easier to swallow buying a larger quantity at one time to get a better price per pound later.
Good luck, and enjoy the new hobby!
Read this sticky post at the top of this forum, if you haven't already. The book recommendations are fine. The ABC's of Reloading is now in its 9th edition. Advanced handloading gets you into a whole other area of detail, but most of the specialized advanced techniques are mainly useful in rifle and long-range single-shot handgun reloading, as they make improvements that, for statistical reasons, can be very hard to detect shooting pistols and revolvers handguns.
When it comes to selecting powder, there is a simple approach to use at the beginning and until you get your feet wet. Look through powder company data, like Hodgdon's, that gives measured maximum load pressures. You will notice the maximum pressures listed for different powders are not the same. That may be confusing, but what the powder maker is doing is backing down from the SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure rating by the amount of pressure variation he observed in testing. The lower that maximum pressure, the more variation the maker saw. You generally want to minimize variation where you can, so you make initial choices from among the powders with the highest pressures listed, then read to see if others have liked those powders in your chambering. The last step is important because manufacturer's testing doesn't tell you everything, like how dirty the powder burned or how well it does with powder position changes in the case.
The reason powders with a lot of variation are still listed is for people who already have those powders on hand and who want to avoid the expense of an additional powder and are therefore willing to make do. Since you haven't bought powder yet, pick two or three that have the highest maximum pressures listed and who's load range, from start to finish corresponds to a velocity range you want. Read about them and note which one comes closest to serving your purposes. Commonly, the final choice is simply the one that works well in the largest number of different cartridges you load for. If you can narrow your powder choice like that and test it with a single pound first and find that satisfactory, that makes it easier to swallow buying a larger quantity at one time to get a better price per pound later.
Good luck, and enjoy the new hobby!
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Another consideration in selecting a powder is what's available. These days pretty much everything is available on-line, but for shipping powders and primers there's a hazmat surcharge that can be significant if you're buying in small quantities. It's not uncommon for groups of reloaders to combine orders, because the hazmat fee usually applies one time to the entire order, so they can amortize it by spreading it out over several buyers.
If you're just starting out and won't be loading lots and lots of cartridges in a short time, it's probably going to be more economical to buy locally if there's a source that's local to you. But many smaller gun shops, if they sell reloading components at all, won't stock every powder from every brand, so you may wind up having to work with what's available.
In my case, when I finally worked up the nerve to try loading my own for .45 ACP the shop at the range where I shoot carried Winchester 231 powder and Winchester primers. It turned out that Winchester 231 was (and is) a fairly popular choice for .45 ACP, so I went with that and I still use it. It's also good for 9mm, so Winchester 231 is the only powder I've ever used since I began reloading.
Until last week, when I found that the .44 Colt cowboy loads I was playing with didn't work well with Winchester 231. So I'm now about to test my first attempts at using Trail Boss powder -- which I had to buy on-line, pay a hazmat fee, and then drive 25 miles to a FedEx depot to pick up because the shipment required an adult signature, I live alone, and I couldn't be at home when the driver goes through my street.
If you're just starting out and won't be loading lots and lots of cartridges in a short time, it's probably going to be more economical to buy locally if there's a source that's local to you. But many smaller gun shops, if they sell reloading components at all, won't stock every powder from every brand, so you may wind up having to work with what's available.
In my case, when I finally worked up the nerve to try loading my own for .45 ACP the shop at the range where I shoot carried Winchester 231 powder and Winchester primers. It turned out that Winchester 231 was (and is) a fairly popular choice for .45 ACP, so I went with that and I still use it. It's also good for 9mm, so Winchester 231 is the only powder I've ever used since I began reloading.
Until last week, when I found that the .44 Colt cowboy loads I was playing with didn't work well with Winchester 231. So I'm now about to test my first attempts at using Trail Boss powder -- which I had to buy on-line, pay a hazmat fee, and then drive 25 miles to a FedEx depot to pick up because the shipment required an adult signature, I live alone, and I couldn't be at home when the driver goes through my street.
Keep your LNL! After you get a good knowledge base on reloading you will want to go a little faster, make more. And there's always a use for a single stage press on your bench for specific operations (I have one just for priming with a ram prime, sizing bullets and for when I have a small run and I don't want to change over my primary press).
Also, find a load (bullet, powder) in your reloading manual before you buy any components. Many fewer headaches that way. For deciding on powder, most of my reloading manuals have a Powder Profile section and gives a good idea of what each powder is best suited for. I have loaded thousands of rounds of 45 ACP with Unique and Bullseye (my "just in case" ammo in 45 ACP uses a "classic" load of Bullseye under a 230 FMJ)...
Also, find a load (bullet, powder) in your reloading manual before you buy any components. Many fewer headaches that way. For deciding on powder, most of my reloading manuals have a Powder Profile section and gives a good idea of what each powder is best suited for. I have loaded thousands of rounds of 45 ACP with Unique and Bullseye (my "just in case" ammo in 45 ACP uses a "classic" load of Bullseye under a 230 FMJ)...
Last edited: