New to reloading .44 magnum

S

Sequins

New member
Hello folks, I'm looking to getting into reloading .44 magnum. I'm a young man without a ton of financial means and I'm hoping $1,000 or less can get me started. I do not intend to produce mass scale ammunition but I'd like to shoot about a thousand rounds a month or so, maybe 10,000 rounds a year as a rough estimate.

I have no reloading experience or equipment whatsoever. I have shot many guns and always enjoyed it, but I have never reloaded and always yearned to do so. I have read the recommended equipment post and it has given me a good starting point on the necessary categories and types of equipment necessary but I would like to get today's opinions from today's shooters on what they would do the same or do differently if they had their time again.

I know in many hobbies there are common pitfalls or a brand that in the time and place is uniquely underpriced for the quality. I'm looking to get in for the long term, but on the cheap. I'm willing to pay for whatever quality is worth paying for and will adjust my budget if necessary but I'm hoping $1,000 will buy mostly premium equipment for a .44 magnum reloading rig. If it matters I intend to branch into 9mm and .357 magnum as well but I'm very happy with the manufactured price and reliability of 9mm and mainly want to lower my cost of .44 magnum.

If anyone could give me any specific advice beyond the stickied equipment post, particularly geared towards what works best for the .44 magnum I'd appreciate it. I'm thinking Dillon stuff looks great so if that's all I need let me know please just let me know, and if not please also let me know. Because this will be my first run at buying powder, primers, or bullets I wouldn't hate recommendations for the .44 magnum varieties of those as well. I obviously will start on the low end of the power spectrum for safety at first but if I get the swing of this I expect I'll have years of fun.

(PS: If anyone in the Seattle area has any interest in teaching a novice shooter how to reload I'd be grateful, and I'd be glad to apprentice in the art of reloading. I figure it's worth mentioning so send me a PM if you want to share this aspect of the sport with me)
 
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First off, I'd say read The ABCs of Reloading. Not only will it give you info on the how and why about reloading, but you'll learn what equipment suits your reloading needs. My first thought for a beginner with that amount of ammo required is to go with a Lee Turret press and disable the auto index feature. Using this press this way is like using a single stage with quickly changeable steps/dies, but at your speed. I started loading .44 magnum in '86 and still shoot/reload mebbe 2,000 annually. My old style Lee turret still cranks them out hand indexing and batch loading (my preference). I think it's best to learn to reload on a single stage press, learning reloading rather than learning how to operate a progressive reloading machine. I'm not a fan of kits and I researched tools individually to get what fit my needs, and not a salesman's idea of equipment needed. I'd recommend a good beam scale, teamed up with an adjustable powder measure (you'll get a lot of recommendations for tools that are "product loyal" opinions, so research each and find what works for you) and each of the major mfgs. sells decent powder measures and scales.

In nearly 30 years of reloading I have trimmed mebbe 10 cases and measured mebbe 20. OAL is determined by the location of the crimp groove/cannalure so calipers are a good thing to have but not essential. I shoot 4, .44 Mag. revolvers, 1 Contender and 1 Puma and it's easy to keep brass sorted by headstamp, but I have also used mixed brass in some loads. I haven't bothered cleaning primer pockets as I haven't seen any advantage (I got sub 2" groups at 50' regularly with plain old wiped brass. I didn't have a tumbler for 12 years after I started and just wiped the brass with a solvent dampened rag as I inspected it before processing.).

I'd say start with a tried and true load and components (a 240 jacketed or lead bullet, and starting loads of Unique, Universal, Blue Dot, 2400. Wait 'till later for H110/W296). 90% of my reloads are now cast lead bullets. Your reloading manual(s) is your friend!

Reloading is an exceptionally satisfying hobby (second only to casting bullets). Stick with book loads, don't guess, and you can reload safely making accurate ammo for years. With experience you'll branch out into other aspects of the hobby (I have reloaded everything from frog fart loads up to arm twisting Mega-boomers, 123 gr. balls over a dusting of Bullseye to 300 gr. T-Tex killers over near max. loads of WC820). When I started my .44 Magnum "career" I had a case of Magnumitus, and had some really hot loads, which I quickly grew out of! No more bloody knuckles or sore wrists...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
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I started with a single stage and moved to a progressive. I also went without a tumbler for a long time-the solvent and rag route Mikid mentioned.

That said, given the amount you'll be shooting I see no reason for you NOT to get a progressive right off the bat as long as you read the directions and work slowly and deliberately at first.

Getting a mentor to show you how to get started is an EXCELLENT idea. I wish I would have had one.

The big question as far as equipment goes is will you be loading bottleneck rifle rounds too? If so, a large number a month? Pistol only the Dillon Square Deal would do it for you.

https://www.dillonprecision.com/customize-reloader.html

I started with RCBS and have never owned a Dillon but I've heard lots of good stuff about them.

P.S. I'd forego the cleaning cases with a rag too. This is better:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/103614/rcbs-vibratory-case-tumbler-110-volt?cm_vc=ProductFinding
 
My recommendations are going to be along the same lines as the previous poster's but, differ in other aspects.

I'd buy a Lee Classic turret press kit. There are no better made turret system on the market. I won't go as far as saying you should disable the indexing. Only understand the steps that are taking place. A case needs sized and deprimed first. It happens at the same time if you use a conventional resizing/ depriming die. Then it needs flared, primed, charged, bullet seated, and likely crimped in you are shooting the 44 mag in a revolver. I never do on jacketed bullets as I flare minimal but, it could be a necessity if loading lead as you must flare wide enough to not shave the bullet when seating.

On the turret system, station number one deprimes, sizes, and reprimes the case when you bottom out on the down stroke. The press will index to the flare /powder charging station the next stroke. The next stroke will seat the bullet. And, the final stroke will crimp if desired. 4 complete handle operations equals one loaded round. It really is simple and quick.

The price for the Lee classic turret kit is 2.5 times cheaper than a Dillon 550B progressive loader and, your round count will equal or exceed the Dillion progressive press in your early stages if you get the turret system. There is simply too much going on while progressive loading for a newbie. You'll short stroke, for get to index, something that will lead to frustration, in the least. So, I'd go with the turret press and get the steps down. After words, you can go progressive and be fine. Trust me, I've reloaded for 30 years and just recently got back into a progressive. It is busy, nerve racking stuff until you get it down. I couldn't imagine learning on one.

Get a tumbler. The only cartridges I've had fail to prime deep enough due to primer pocket crud was 44 mag.'s. Get a case trimmer of sorts. I use the Lee zip trim and the lock stud and cartridge gauge from Lee as well. Whatever you brand you choose, the 44 mag will require it if you load them on the hotter side. I'm sure not all will agree with the tumbler and case trimming as most pistol guys balk at it. But, powder discrepancies are mute when the cartridge has more volume to screw with pressure. 2 or 3 rounds of hot 2400 or 110/296 will grown that case. So your OAL will change unless you trim them occasionally. Which could cause problems theoretically. Plus, I mix and match 44 mag plinking brass for a Marlin 1894 and a Ruger Revolver, so I have a need for brass that is of the relative same length.

It sounds a lot more daunting than it is. Read a good reloading manual on the proper steps, than develop your own system on how to accomplish it. In my opinion, for that volume of loading, the turret is the best bet to start on. God Bless
 
I agree with the lee turret works great, simple and inexpensive, I can load 50 rounds in around 15 minutes or so. I like lee dies also
 
There is a lot of good advise and info being offered up.
I’m not going to get into which manufacturer has the best press or what type of press you should get.
That truly is something you will have to figure out on your own.
The advise I wish to share is get 2 current loading manuals from different sources and find one or two about 10 years old.
These older manual will help answer question later down the road as you get more involved in re-loading.
Then read these book, read them again and then sit down and read them again.
Re-loading is a simple mechanical process but there are little things that are easy to over look or not recognize when you are new to the process, but when you have the basics ingrained on your brain these little things are much easier to spot and avoid and or correct.
One last thing - YOUTUBE is your friend.:)
 
The OP is starting w/ one of the most straightforward/flexible cartridges... +1 ;)

That said, $1,000 is waaaaay overkill. Figure half that at most. :D

I'd recommend single-stage press at this point (you'll keep if for a lifetime no matter what). It is also the easiest to set up, safest for the learning process, and faaaar less expensive

I recommend either RCBS and/or Lyman presses and (carbide)dies (mix & match -- it doesn't matter). -- Don't forget the matching 44Mag shell holder. :D Any make will do

I'd stay with standard dies/standard crimping. Stay away from Lee's "factory crimp" at this point.

GO TO ANY LOCAL GUNSHOWS for used equipment/biggest savings. Presses are bombproof, but make sure the dies are shiny inside & out.

Get a good balance beam scale. Any of these three will do:
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/658771/redding-2-master-magnetic-powder-scale-505-grain-capacity
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/232621/rcbs-m500-magnetic-powder-scale
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/781073/lyman-pro-500-magnetic-powder-scale-505-grain-capacity
Stay AWAY from the Lee "Safety Scale" !:mad:!

DO get a set of Lee dippers:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/943305/lee-improved-powder-measure-kit
These are marvelous for middle-of-the road loads that will be your mainstay. You can get a drop-tube powder measure at your leisure.
Funnel's just fine.... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/974498/lee-powder-funnel-22-to-45-caliber

Last but not least: A couple of cheap soup bowls from the SAFEWAY. You put the shells in these and move sized/expanded/primed shells from one to the other as you go in the process.

LAST last but not least.... reloading trays to hold the shells after you charge w/ powder:
http://www.buffaloarms.com/Ammunition_Loading_Blocks_it-735460.aspx?CAT=3806
Get the wooden ones... lifetime again. :D

LAST LAST Last....
Powders:
Any of these you can find:
Good Middle of the Road/GREAT starter/lifetime loads:
- UNIQUE
- ACCURATE #7
- TightGROUP

Good Magnum
- W296/H110 (the same powder/different labels. DO NOT GO BELOW MIN CHARGE)
- Lil`Gun

Good for a bit of EVERYTHING:
- Vihtavuori N-110
- 2400
- PowerPistol
- Accurate #9

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Almost forgot: HandPriming Tool (forget priming on the press.)
For decades I used Lee's old model. (Perfectomundo)
Then they changed the design (yuck)

I recommend the RSBS Universal.
 
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Next up for me is more 44 Magnum on my Lee turret. I use coated lead bullets(240) so my die set is Hornady Cowboy seater/crimp, accompanied by a Redding dual-ring carbide sizer and a Lyman M-die. I have a Redding crimp die but can't use it unless loading jacketed, letting the powder measure expand, opening a spot for separate seat and crimp. I have my original Lee die set, which would be fine with jacketed or plated.

I currently load 20.0 gr of PowerPro 300-MP. Down a notch from my former 21.7 gr but still definitely a magnum load. This allows me to shoot more than a couple cylinders without feeling beat up and starting to flinch.

I also have a 4 pounder of Enforcer and sample pounds of H110 and AA4100. I probably won't buy anymore 300-MP, a few pounds to go with loads in 357, 41, and 44 Magnums, because it seems to corrode the brass, when fired. Quite a mess.
 
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I have two Dillon Square Deal B's, two Dillon 550s (bought the first in 1982 IIRC), two RCBS Rockchuckers, and some where out in the garage, a Lyman Turret press.

If I could only have one, it would be a Dillon 550.

It is much more flexible than a Square Deal B. Caliber change is quicker/easier (with extra 550 tool heads). You can use any standard die set (Square Deal B requires proprietary dies). You can also load rifle cartridges. For me, the leverage of the 550 reduces the the effort required to operate the press on larger cases (like the .44 Mag).

The 550 can be used as a single stage or any combination of loading operations:

You can size separately, prime separately (on or off press), expand separately, charge powder separately (using scoops, scale, measure or combination), or any combination including a manually advanced progressive.

It can be used to perform two or three operations at once (size, prime, expand), then charge offline and finally seat, crimp).

And of course it can be used as intended, a manually indexed progressive.

The main objection seems to be that "it is too easy" to double charge a case or seat a bullet in an empty case. Yes that is a possibility but you can do the same using any press.

Double charges can be avoided by choosing a powder that will overflow the case if you fail to advance the shell plate. A powder cop die can be used in station 3 but you have to seat and crimp in one operation in station 4 (some don't like this but there are ways to make it work).

My 550s are setup so that I can look into the case as it advances from the the powder charge station to the bullet seating station. No matter what, reloading requires your undivided attention at all times. No distractions no matter what. Obviously, this applies regardless of the press you are using.

Here's a pretty cool product to light up the shell plate area of the 550.
http://www.badmanbullets.com/OnlineStore/proddetail.php?prod=LED-Lights-Dillon-550

I just use a "snake light".

I would also buy a mechanical scale (not an electronic one), and a Lee Powder Measure Kit (to be used in conjunction with the scale)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/943305/lee-improved-powder-measure-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding

A plastic cartridge loading block is also needed.

I don't think you need a case trimmer of any kind (I don't trim handgun cases).

Also, tumblers are nice but not needed.



Read, and reread a good loading manual then start off using the 550 as a single stage until you get used to the loading cycle and operation of the press.


Geez, I went on a lot longer than intended.



Paul
 
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I've been looking at the Redding T-7 and Forster Co Ax for doing 45LC, 9mm and maybe 454 Casull. I sort of stumbled across the Dillon BL 550 and was interested but there is very little information out there about it.

I can find a gazillion YouTube videos showing the 550b and 650 and even the 1050. Unless I am missing the boat, I can't that many showing the BL 550 and explaining how it differs from the RL 550.

Apparently it is not that popular a press and its lack of YT coverage is instructive.
 
@Dale-A: Thanks for the support man, I'm just getting starting but I appreciate your involvement in the thread and your kind words.

@:Mehovey: This is exactly the specific info I'm looking for. I've read some of the basic threads and I was looking for exactly these intermediate tips. Lyman just went on my radar. Looks like if I want to start simple Lee or Lyman are good to consider based on yours and other posters' contributions.

@Paul105: The Dillon 550 seems to come in several varieties. Your post makes it sound like a product I am interested in, and at an approximately $500 price point it's right up my alley in terms of price. Is there a particular variety you prefer? I'm replying right before bed this evening and intend to do some research tomorrow, but it looks like the differences are pretty slight mechanical reconfigurations (for safety? that's my first guess). I saw at least a B and an RL version.

@WVMountaineer: I think I might just pursue your starting route. It's funny you mention a tumbler because I had heard from many that they weren't that necessary and were more of a luxury. Some have said a solvent swatch wipe-down would be all I needed. It sounds like you feel pretty confidently and I honestly want to start with something manageable to build confidence and skill. I'm a quick learner but I'd certainly rather not sabotage myself by picking a needlessly complex or difficult way of getting started, especially with the risk from mistakes. Based on the prices of all this equipment at a cursory glance I wouldn't be too concerned starting with something I plan to grow out of if it will ultimately build better skills and insight which I can later apply to even higher grade equipment.

I'm planning to price compare and order everything this next month (the funds from this paycheck were exactly on schedule and I'm all set to start this adventure!)

Thanks again for all the advice so far and I will continue to monitor this thread as I move through my buying process. I don't have a lot to add myself as I am a totaly rookie but I really appreciate all the advice and thoughts from everyone, it's really encouraging to see such a strong response to this thread and I am glad to know that reloading is just as energetic a portion of the shooting sports as any other. I really appreciate all the thoughtful advice.
 
A bit late to the game, but I'll comment simply because when I started reloading in a similar situation: had a tight budget and wanted to load .44Mag.

I too quizzed members on TFL.

My first step was buying a manual to cross-reference what I had understood from threads on here with guidance in the manual.

Then I bought everything I needed to reload. Not necessarily reload quickly, but reload effectively and safely.

I bought almost exclusively Lee. With EU prices it is by far the most cost effective and I don't see competitors being so much better, or turning out ammo so much better (for my needs) to justify the price hike.

I got the following (in addition to the manual).

The essentials:
-Lee Classic Cast Turret Press
-Lee Safety Scale
-Lee Powder Funnel
-Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-die set (no need for lube and a real boon)
-Decent caliper (had this already, but get a decent one: digital or analogue)

Other bits that could be useful:
-Lee Deburring tool (not so necessary if you don't trim)
-Lee Primer pocket cleaner (not so useful, I've found, if you get a cleaner/tumbler)
-A tumbler/sonic cleaner. (I have a Sonic cleaner)
-A powder measure (I initially bout the pro-disk because it could be turret mounted but regretted it, later opting for the Perfect Powder Measure. With the stick powders I use, neither is "perfect" but the PPM is much better)
-A powder trickler (not essential, but makes getting the right charge quickly much easier)

I started reloading as a cost saving exercise and basically ensuring I actually had ammo for my gun as, where I live, there are probably .44Mags counted in the dozens, so ammo was very thin on the ground.

I now also reload because I love the versatility reloading affords me and I really enjoy the process. I sure you will too.
 
Been loading for about 40yrs<. The manuals are #1. Pickup a few and read them over and over to get your schooling in order. Hogdon's, Sierra and Speer in that order would be a good start.
A primer pocket uniformer is advisable to make sure primers seat in all cases to the same depth and tension.
I started with a rockchucker and that's all I have with no regrets. Although with the pistols you may be better off with the progressive press to save time.
I can't imagine not having a good caliper to measure with.
You will need a quiet place where you won't be disturbed to prevent mistakes. No phone... Good bright lights a solid bench, shelves for the record books and cabinets one for your powder and one for your tools.

$1000 should get you in the naborhood where you want to be.
 
Sequins,

I don't think there is any difference between the RL550B and the 550B other than "RL550B" is Dillon's current nomenclature. A sure way to find out is to call Dillon -- their customer service and lifetime no BS guantee is second to none (RCBS is at least equal).

Here's Dillon's operation video, straight from their website. The machine in the video looks like mine with some added extra (extra money) options.

The 550(B) has been the subject of product improvement over time, so the current version (looks like RL550B) is the one to get.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0__OViMcaA&feature=youtu.be


Brian Enos's website sells Dillon stuff and has some good FAQ type info.

http://brianenos.com/store/home.html

Also, the caliper mentioned above is pretty much a necessity IMO. Doesn't need to be an expensive one.

Paul
 
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There is a difference in the BL and RL550 presses, you would be wise to pick the RL550 press.

The BL is a stripped down version, no priming or powder system, but you can update it later. Other then those two things it is the SAME press. Forgot when you buy a BL it doesn't include a caliber conversion.
 
For 1000 rds .44 mag a month I'd go with the Dillon SD. For lighter loads in large cases Titegroup works for me, H110 or 2400 for hi octane loads. I bought my SD before they were SDBs and load 3 different cartridges. Lotsa them in the last 35+years. The lifetime warranty is a true story. Later you can pick up another press you can't live without. Everyone should have at least 2 anyway.
 
For 1000 rds .44 mag a month...
Click to expand...
That's a 50-rnd box a day, five days a week, 52 weeks a year....

Uh uuuh... That's not exactly what I'd recommend as a "start-up" baseline, either for shooting or reloading -- unless one has a ton of money and a lotta time (neither of which would appear to the case for the OP). :rolleyes: ;)
 
Just my 2 cents,.
I'm also a 25 years + reloader. I still have my 1986 vintage RCBS Rockchucker and use it constantly. I tried progressives too, but always seemed to be back at the Rockchucker. Your reloading estimates are above what I do given the time I have to shoot. Any way you choose to go, you have a ton of good info here in your post to use as references. You are also about to embark on an excellent hobby that will keep your interest for years to come and perhaps triple your shooting enjoyment. I cannot count the number of fellow shooters I have guided down the reloading road, but I do know that all of them are still reloading.
Manuals, manuals, manuals is the best advice for a rookie.
Good shooting and be safe.
E.
 
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