New to pistol reloading

N

Nemsis

New member
Hello all,

I've been loading rifle for 2yrs now and finally going to start loading for my .44mag Ruger Super Blackhawk.

I just order some new starline brass and hard cast bullets for plinking rounds

I will be loading single stage on my T7 any tips or advice on what to watch out for?


Thanks
 
You've chosen one of the most versatile and easiest calibers to reload.
Very many components work with it and it's kind of hard to make less than useful loads without really screwing something up.
Just follow the reload data and enjoy.
If you happen to run into a specific problem, just give a hollar.
 
Only thing I have to add is powder selction. The best perfomring full power magnum powders can not be reduced. The ones that can, are often pretty dirty when you do load them down. For cast bullet target plinking rounds its hard to beat Unique for low end to moderate magnum loads.

If you are doing light target loads, most of the fast powders will work well.

Select a powder that suits your intended purpose.
 
Thanks that's my next mission trying to find powder.


Is there any special dies or techniques need to load cast bullets vs jacketed bullets?
 
2400 and IMR 4227 are the best powders I have ever found for full bore mag loads.
When down loading the 44mag you have a lot of options but keep in mind the barrel length. This has a great effect on how fast / slow a powder you can use.
There are a number of fast burning powders that work good for plinking loads in 44 cal
Try to tailor the burn rate to the barrel length and you will get optimum performance.
I load hot 44 spl loads in 44mag cases but get better performance just up loading hot 44 spl brass.
***Warning***
Work all loads up from the starting charge listed in the powder manufacturers loading guide. Work all loads up slowly and look for pressure signs.

This round has served me well for years.
44 S&W Special, 240 gr LRN, Unique Powder, CCI 300 Primer
Standard load per Alliant load guide is 6.3 gr.
I up load up to 25% more powder or 7.5gr.
Keep the OAL at around 1.457 or crimp in the lower portion of the canalure.
Watch for compressed powder as this will cause spikes in the pressure curve.
 
Specific to revolver loading: especily with heavy bullets and magnum rounds, a solid & consistent roll crimp is essential for best performance AND for avoiding crimp jump, which can lock a revolver cylinder up like a bank vault, so learn what a proper crimp looks like, feels like and also how to test your crimp

Specific to working with cast lead: ensure you have a decent case mouth flare as you do not want to shave that lead bullet while seating

Further, when working with cast lead, pay attention to your COAL after many rounds. Often, COAL may 'mysteriously' shrink for seemingly no reason but investigation may show the seat/crimp die collecting traces of lube or lead shavings which add up inside the die, forcing the slug more deeply in to the case than intended.
 
Thanks madmo I actually already have some IMR4227 for my .300blk I'll give it a try.
It's a 7.5" barrel so I should be good with most powders.

Thanks Sevens that's the kind of veteran info im looking for :)
 
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Glad to help. To go deeper on crimp, crimp-jump and testing your crimp:

Inertia makes the heavy slugs "want" to stay where they are when the revolver is in full recoil. The end result is a bullet that appears to have inched forward out of the case... in actuality, the bullet stayed put while the case lurched backward under recoil.

Your cast bullets will have a crimp groove, use it. (jacketed will have a cannelure) Compare the roll crimp visually with factory .44 Mag ammo, or search for pictures.

To test your crimp, use a sharpie to color the primer of ONE round. Load a full cylinder of six rounds and shoot all except your single marked round. Eject all six and looked at the marked round -- the bullet should be where you set it, crimped in place. Now load up the cylinder again, five fresh rounds and your single marked round. Shoot five more, except your marked round.

Eject and inspect--
Your marked round has now been through TWICE the recoil that it would "typically" be subjected to.

If you do this successfully with a few different rounds then you have imparted a solid and effective crimp.
 
Thanks for asking our advice

It is not only the roll of the metal at the case mouth that holds the bullet in place. It is the friction of the case walls on the side of the bullet.

But you know this from your experience with bottlenecked rifle cartridges.

Lost Sheep
 
Actually, that is a PHENOMENAL tip for those loading semi-auto pistol cartridges, in hopes of getting them to accept the idea that their taper crimp should not be tasked with that extremely important duty.
 
Good one Lost Sheep

I just relearned that one recently when I was loading my .308 and forgot to final neck size my cases before seating. I got 25rds in when after seating a bullet and bringing the ram down the bullet popped out of the case :eek:
so I checked the rest and you could pull the bullets by hand :(
 
For full power loads, no powder currently available competes with H110.

Considerably better velocity than either 2400 or 4227.
 
It is not only the roll of the metal at the case mouth that holds the bullet in place. It is the friction of the case walls on the side of the bullet.
Click to expand...
The older manuals used to address it, not sure if the newer ones do, though.
Too much roll crimp can actually cause the bullet to lose contact with the inside of the case wall.
And the bullet can kind of rock around inside the case.
Just a thought.
P.S.
A tip off that there's too much roll crimp is having difficulty inserting the ammo into the cylinder chambers, due to the issue mentioned above.
 
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One additional thought; when using lead bullets size/purchase them the same diameter as the cylinder throats of your revolver. This is a good start for a clean (no leading) round...

Sevens, Nick, and 'Sheep's posts are well worth re-reading...
 
20150503_135406_zpskjxodjja.jpg


Got my bullets and brass!
 
Nemsis,

I love g. willikers response when he says, "just follow reloading data and enjoy." For me, this is the essence of reloading. Reloading doesn't have to be difficult if you follow reloading data. On this blog, I sometimes read responses that would make Einstein roll over in his grave.
 
Unless you are casting your own bullets, take a look at Xtremebullets.com. They are plated, so they are limited to 1200fps if I remember right. Good plinking rounds and not much of a price difference vs cast lead. You said you have 4227, I'd also recommend maybe some W296 (magnum loads but 4227 works just as well) and Trailboss (-CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED- cat loads). I really like Trailboss, when I can find it, for range use and to help focus on technique. In all honestly, you picked a very forgiving pistol round to start with. Stay with published data and you'll be fine.
 
Thanks everyone
I'm really trying not to over think this but since I started reloading with match rifle loads i know theirs a lot of stuff they don't tell you in the books.


For example I measured 15 random cases and for the most part they fell into 2 sizes 1.272" and 1.276" well below the 1.285" Max.

From what I've seen and read straight wall pistol cases don't grown after firing so to trim or not to trim that is the question?
 
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