archangel2003
New member
So, I should still get a powder measure, measure the pyrodex, then make a dipper to fit the volume I want for in the field.
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new to me BP revolver
- Thread starter archangel2003
- Start date
rodwhaincamo
New member
You'd do well to get an adjustable powder measure. That way you can try various loads to see what gives you the best accuracy and then you could make a powder measure that drops that amount.
But you don't need one. Yours will work just fine as is, but without testing you won't know what your guns prefer or do best.
I've not tested mine to find out what's the most accurate. I began with a charge I figure to be the minimum for hunting (30 grns) and worked with that. I found the most accurate useful loads. But if I recall you mentioned these were just for targets/plinking.
But you don't need one. Yours will work just fine as is, but without testing you won't know what your guns prefer or do best.
I've not tested mine to find out what's the most accurate. I began with a charge I figure to be the minimum for hunting (30 grns) and worked with that. I found the most accurate useful loads. But if I recall you mentioned these were just for targets/plinking.
You'd do well to get an adjustable powder measure.
What he said.
Lee44ShooterCnB
New member
rodwhaincamo
New member
Thanks fellas! Hadn't heard that Cash song before. I'll be adding it to my collection soon enough!
archangel2003
New member
I finally got out the feeler gauges and on the Spillar and Burr that looked like it had been fired, between the frame and the barrel, the .004 fits with .005 too tight.
On the Old Army that was not fired, the .010 feeler gauge fits and .011 is too tight.
The replacement cylinder that I saw at Cabellas in Northern Indiana, was a little too tight to fit all the way into the frame.
I have read that for modern revolvers .006 to .007 is the target, so the Spillar is tight and the New Army is loose.
I assume when you fire the gun and things heat up, the brass frame should expand more than the steel cylinder and barrel so the gap would, perhaps, open up?
When I got an old Iver Johnson in .38 S&W with a huge barrel to cylinder gap, I pulled the barrel, machined one thread width of thickness off the face (so the front sight would index), then took off a couple thousandths off the barrel face until the cylinder fit, then worked a bit off the face until I got to .006 with the barrel torqued so that the front sight lined up.
I have not test fired it yet so don't know if there are forcing cone issues.
On the Old Army that was not fired, the .010 feeler gauge fits and .011 is too tight.
The replacement cylinder that I saw at Cabellas in Northern Indiana, was a little too tight to fit all the way into the frame.
I have read that for modern revolvers .006 to .007 is the target, so the Spillar is tight and the New Army is loose.
I assume when you fire the gun and things heat up, the brass frame should expand more than the steel cylinder and barrel so the gap would, perhaps, open up?
When I got an old Iver Johnson in .38 S&W with a huge barrel to cylinder gap, I pulled the barrel, machined one thread width of thickness off the face (so the front sight would index), then took off a couple thousandths off the barrel face until the cylinder fit, then worked a bit off the face until I got to .006 with the barrel torqued so that the front sight lined up.
I have not test fired it yet so don't know if there are forcing cone issues.
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