New to hunting/muzzle loaders

K

Kvon2

New member
Hi all,

I've been shooting/collecting for about 5 years years now but have never been in to hunting. I think 2017 will be the year I give hunting a try and I am learning that at least in MD the shotgun season is quite short but you can get a few more opportunities if you try muzzle loading season as well.

I then realized I know absolutely nothing about muzzle loaders, so I figured I would see if my friends at TFL could get me moving in the right direction with some general knowledge or recommendations.

Any input is appreciated!
 
You don't have to spend a lot to get a good, accurate ML. For several years, I shot a T/C Omega Z5 that I bought on clearance at Walmart for less than $200. One piece of advise - if you want to get a used ML, then definitely let someone who knows MLs to examine it first. Black powder and substitutes are EXTREMELY corrosive and if it isn't cleaned properly after being shot it WILL be permanently damaged.
 
Thanks for the advice!

I'll probably buy new, seems you can get quality while staying affordable.

Any brands to look at or avoid?

My initial research leads me to .50 being a solid caliber to start with. Thoughts on that?
 
i use euroarms 1862 pattern enfield carbine in .58 cal. downside its hard to find anything bullet wise to shoot out of it.
50 cal is easiest to find. its availible everywhere. i would recomend a low power optic and a good inline in stainless as it wont rust as easily.
 
Do you want an in-line ML or a traditional one? I can only speak to in-lines. I'm partial to T/C so that is what I know. CVA's made now have a good reputation though wasn't always the case. Knights also have a pretty large following.
 
The first thing you need to do is check the game regulations in your state. They vary widely from state to state. Some don't allow glass, shotgun primers or closed breach/primer. After you know what you are allowed to hunt with your search might be more limited. Do you have a friend that can show you in person how to load your rifle? It will be easier to learn that way.
 
CVA Wolf

The CVA Wolf is a real bargain. I've seen blued models for sale at $160 stainless is $40 or 50 more.
I have had mine for several years now. Very light and compact. It is also very accurate WITH THE RIGHT BULLET/SABOT. Don't waste your money on muzzle loader bullet and sabot bubble packs. 50cal rifle 45cal bullet sabots cost $5 to $7 per 50. 45 cal bullets are $30 or so per 100. It is important to get 45 cal (.452) bullets and the correct sabots. I have used 44 cal (.429) bullets and accuracy was poor, I suspect the thicker sabots were failing.
I use Hornady 250 grain XTP 45 cal bullets and Harvester Sabots.
With a good scope (cost much more than the gun) I get 3 inch groups at 250 yards. Adjust powder (pyrodex or triple seven) for best accuracy. 80 to 90 grain works best for me. Charges are by volume not actual weight.
The break action and tool free removal of the breach plug make it very easy to clean. Lots of "magic" cleaners for sale, none work as good as boiling water and a drop of Dawn.
 
Kvon I hunted in Maryland for about 10 years between the catoctin mountains and sharpsburg. Mostly rifle but a little muzzle loader. Plenty of deer. Gods luck and pm me is you have any questions.
 
I have a CVA Optima V2 and I would quickly buy it again. Costs a bit more than the Wolf but they're light, easy to clean, and very accurate.
 
Try shouldering them all before buying. (They all fit differently.)
Main thing to look for is how open its site picture is and how quickly your eye's focus in on the barrel sights without having to move the rifle all over the place to accommodate your sights and or your vision.

Keep in mind not all States allow B/P scoped rifles. Although a scope might be legal this year. The following Season you may be prohibited from using a scope.
i.e. Rules/Laws Change.
When sighting-in your rifle. Get the very best grouping/s possible at the distance >you< feel comfortable shooting too. Big heavy B/P bullets don't require their highest suggested speed. >Just targeting accuracy.
 
Big heavy B/P bullets don't require their highest suggested speed. >Just targeting accuracy.
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+1000 on this. Even though modern MLs will take 150gr of black powder (which equates to about 120 or so Gr of 777), going higher than 100gr of 777 usually causes accuracy to degrade. I'd much rather sacrifice 100fps and get a 1.5" group than a 4" group.
 
Well, just ordered a Traditions Buckstalker. I went with the black stock and Ceracoted barrel. Pretty excited! :D
 
Your next step is to decide on powder and bullets:)
I like Pyrodex and 777. Get at least 2 types of powder so you can compare accuracy. Get as many bullet types as you are comfortable with. I have had good results with Power Belts, some sabot loads and some that I can't remember the name of....Been too long since I used them. Shoot each type of bullet with each type of powder. I start at about 70 grains equivalent by volume and work up in 5 grain increments until accuracy falls off. Shoot a 5 shot group if you want, but I can see major changes with 3 shot groups. Saves time mostly. I shoot 5 shot groups when fine tuning my loads. After you find the most accurate load with each bullet compare accuracy of all tested bullets. The most accurate becomes my hunting load. Then you can just shoot the rest of the looser bullets for fun. Remember, each gun has it's favorite load. It's your job to find it.
 
Great.
These are some pretty good videos on basic ML use. http://www.cva.com/Blackpowder-Videos.php?category=Muzzleloading Basics#l

CVA is in bed with Powerbelt bullets so they are featured in the videos. I personally hate them. I've seldom seen a rifle that is accurate with them. My personal favorite load is the 250gr Hornady SST with the low-drag sabot pushed by 100gr of loose 777.

Speaking of loose powder, while pellets might be appealing for their convenience you'll likely get better groups with loose powder. Pellets are notoriously inconsistent in their ignition and with a ML, consistency is everything. From how much powder is there to how tightly it is compacted by the bullet - doing the same thing exactly the same gives you the best groups.

I even shoot EVERY shot at the range with a clean barrel. That's because I know that every shot in the field will also be with a clean barrel. Well, at least I did when I used a ML. I still have a ML barrel for my Encore but since moving to MS, I haven't needed it. We have some really strange "primitive weapons" laws here so the ML barrel doesn't get used.
 
Buy a CO2 bullet outer kit with a valve that fits your cap nipple. Mark your ramrod with a small round incision at the muzzle to indicate a fully seated round is down the pipe. Don't ram the ramrod down with such force that you might possibly crush the powder grains, which can compromise accuracy. I usually shoot a deer with a clean blackpowder barrel --- So when zeroing...I clean the bore with Simple Green solution after each shot. For oil removal down the bore...I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner degreaser.

For oil removal inside the nipple chamber. I'll pre-fire with caps ---- with the first cap being pointed downrange at the backstop, in case the weapon is loaded --- The next one having the muzzle pointed close to leaves or grass to see any movement of the grass, knowing I have a clean fire-path down the bore. Use a nipple pick after the last pre-fire cap. If you wanted to leave a loaded un-capped rifle over night in cold weather...don't bring it inside a warm cabin where condensation can form in the bore.

I like Barnes bullets with Harvester sabots.

Don't talk to a person while he or she is loading a blackpowder rifle, because it might destroy the loader's concentration. Always load the powder from a pre-measured vial and not the powder can. No smoking within 15 feet of a blackpowder shooter on the range.
 
Buy a CO2 bullet outer kit with a valve that fits your cap nipple.
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He bought a modern inline. No need for tricks like that. If you stick a bullet, just unscrew the plug and push it out. (yes, the purists would probably say that's cheating).
 
Range time

Spend some quality time at the range. As mentioned previously give up a little velocity for better accuracy. My old T/C Hawken did very well with holy black @ 100 grains, and a big ol bullet.
If you choose to shoot from a bench or prone bring a shoulder pad. The recoil is "different" than smokeless rifles, but they do recoil.
Lots easier to absorb the recoil from a standing position, and better practice for hunting too.

Range time will also build your loading skill set.
 
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