New to black powder, need advice.
- Thread starter xMINORxTHREATx
- Start date
xMINORxTHREATx
New member
You all are getting me excited about this. haha
For the longest time I've been into the latest and greatest about guns. The newest technology, polymer frames, EOTech sights etc, etc.
When I was in the Army, I had more money in accessories on my M16 than my car was worth!!!
This changed when I bought my 1944 Nagant Revolver. It was a completely impulse buy, and since then, I have been looking at more and more older weapons.
It's kind of off topic, but if you got an extra $95 lying around, and want a weird piece of history, check out the Nagant revolver at www.aimsurplus.com
very fun to shoot.
For the longest time I've been into the latest and greatest about guns. The newest technology, polymer frames, EOTech sights etc, etc.
When I was in the Army, I had more money in accessories on my M16 than my car was worth!!!
This changed when I bought my 1944 Nagant Revolver. It was a completely impulse buy, and since then, I have been looking at more and more older weapons.
It's kind of off topic, but if you got an extra $95 lying around, and want a weird piece of history, check out the Nagant revolver at www.aimsurplus.com
very fun to shoot.
xMINORxTHREATx said:
That's an interesting little piece of history and for a cartridge gun, not a bad price to my uneducated eye. Having just bought a Schofield Russian however and finding out that it's almost impossible to get the brass, let alone ammunition, what are the odds that you could find what you needed to fire it?
Fingers McGee
New member
And here are a few of mine:
They all get lubed wads (not the expensive Cabelas or Wonder Wads) and bore butter on the arbor to keep them spinning free. Nipples get removed and cleaned with Birchwood Casey BP Solvent after every match. Balistol is used to clean and lubricate them the rest of the revolver. A little straight Balistol is sprayed on the nipple threads to keep them from freezing up.
They all get lubed wads (not the expensive Cabelas or Wonder Wads) and bore butter on the arbor to keep them spinning free. Nipples get removed and cleaned with Birchwood Casey BP Solvent after every match. Balistol is used to clean and lubricate them the rest of the revolver. A little straight Balistol is sprayed on the nipple threads to keep them from freezing up.
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Well I don't use beeswax but.....
...I do use the wax rings from under toilets. They used to be high in beeswax but no more. Now it is probably a parafin base material. It works for me and I mix it about half and half with Crisco. It stays were I put it even on hot day on a hot revolver.
It cleans up easy and does not appear to be harming the pistols.
I lube the bullets in it and smear it over the chambers.
...I do use the wax rings from under toilets. They used to be high in beeswax but no more. Now it is probably a parafin base material. It works for me and I mix it about half and half with Crisco. It stays were I put it even on hot day on a hot revolver.
It cleans up easy and does not appear to be harming the pistols.
I lube the bullets in it and smear it over the chambers.
xMINORxTHREATx
New member
a box of 50 is $20 and some change from the same website. Everywhere else its about $40 a box. That website is very fair priced on their stuff. The store is about four minutes from my house too. =]
I much prefer greased, felt wads between the ball and powder, instead of grease over the ball. The wads are more easily carried and used. The grease is often messy to apply (a Popsicle stick helps).
A mix of beeswax and lard (unsalted, please) makes a good lubricant, or any kind of animal tallow. I can't give proportions because it's been years since I made it. I seem to recall I made it about 4 parts melted beeswax to 1 part lard.
The late gun writer Elmer Keith, who learned to load cap and ball sixguns from Civil War veterans, suggested a 50-50 mix of (unspecified) tallow and beeswax.
For the past 10 years or more I've been using the lubricant recipe named after me: Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant. You'll find the recipe in my post, "So you want a cap and ball revolver" in the sticky section.
It's a mix of mutton tallow, beeswax and canning paraffin. I haven't found anything better, but you MUST use the specified ingredients. Substituting anything else results in an inferior lubricant.
Anymore, the only time I put grease over a ball is when I'm firing maximum charges and there is no space for a wad, or sometimes when it's so blamed hot and dry here in the Utah desert that the felt wad won't keep fouling soft.
Both of the above are exceptions, not my typical shooting day.
A mix of beeswax and lard (unsalted, please) makes a good lubricant, or any kind of animal tallow. I can't give proportions because it's been years since I made it. I seem to recall I made it about 4 parts melted beeswax to 1 part lard.
The late gun writer Elmer Keith, who learned to load cap and ball sixguns from Civil War veterans, suggested a 50-50 mix of (unspecified) tallow and beeswax.
For the past 10 years or more I've been using the lubricant recipe named after me: Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant. You'll find the recipe in my post, "So you want a cap and ball revolver" in the sticky section.
It's a mix of mutton tallow, beeswax and canning paraffin. I haven't found anything better, but you MUST use the specified ingredients. Substituting anything else results in an inferior lubricant.
Anymore, the only time I put grease over a ball is when I'm firing maximum charges and there is no space for a wad, or sometimes when it's so blamed hot and dry here in the Utah desert that the felt wad won't keep fouling soft.
Both of the above are exceptions, not my typical shooting day.
Fingers McGee
New member
4V50 Gary said:
Thanks Gary. It's only a small portion. Your three ROAs are a good start on a collection.