Aguila Blanca
Staff
Last I knew, Winchester does have separate primers for small pistol and small pistol magnum.Foghorn Leghorn said:
new to 38/357, need little help with primers
- Thread starter Shadow9mm
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Geezerbiker
New member
The probably do now but the last time I bought some, the were for magnum or standard loads.
I'll keep an eye on the K-Hornet loads I've made with IMR4227 to see if it all burns with small rifle primers.
There was a time when all I had was small rifle primers and no small rifle. I used them in my S&W .357 magnums. Even the slicked up Model 19, I used to have would set them off no problem. I don't ever recall a misfire with that gun and I'm still sorry I ever let it go.
Now on my daughter's Russian Makarov, I always use small rifle primers. It doesn't have spring on the firing pin and the pin bounces off the primer when the slide drops home... Those little dimples in the primers made me nervous and small rifle primers solved the problem. Like all Russian guns, it always goes bang...
Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aguila Blanca View Post
Last I knew, Winchester does have separate primers for small pistol and small pistol magnum.
You're mistaking Winchester's large pistol primers with their small pistol primers. Like Aguila Blanca said, Winchester's small pistol primers come as standard or magnum primers, not both.
Don
Originally Posted by Aguila Blanca View Post
Last I knew, Winchester does have separate primers for small pistol and small pistol magnum.
You're mistaking Winchester's large pistol primers with their small pistol primers. Like Aguila Blanca said, Winchester's small pistol primers come as standard or magnum primers, not both.
Don
jetinteriorguy
New member
If your doing a trigger job on your GP100, you should also polish the internals and especially get a shim kit from TriggerShims.com. The whole process is easy peasy and you’ll love the results. My GP100 has a better DA trigger than all of my S&W’s and rivals their SA trigger.
FoghornLeghorn
New member
I wonder why? If I use Alliant 2400 in a 44 mag case, one primer fits all. But if I use the same powder in a 357 magnum, I (should, but don't) use a magnum primer.
Must be something to do with case capacity relative to powder burning speed?
Maybe some of TFL's physicists could expound on the subject.
Geezerbiker
New member
Maybe now they do but 20 years ago when I last stocked up on them, it was not the case...
Tony
I got a kit from M-carbo, came with a trigger and a hammer spring and shims. I will be doing some light polishing while inside…emphasis on light.
Update: Spring kit was a bust. 'Did some very light polishing, installed the new trigger return spring and mainspring. The gun stopped working properly. The double-action stage pull went from 10lb down to 8lb. The single-stage pull went from 4.5lb up to 8lb and barely wanted to break. I took it back apart and put the factory trigger return spring back in. It went back to working normally. With the light polish and shims it was about a 9lb double action and just under 4lb single action with a very smooth pull. Contacting mcarbo to see if they have any ideas.
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This article, a primer on primers should be read by all who haven't read it. One of the important takeaways is the reason you don't see primer comparisons in load manuals much is they change more frequently than people realize and without notice. This video, for example, contrary to Mehavey's table, suggests that CCI's magnum small pistol and standard small rifle primers are currently the same. This article shows the standard deviation of blast waves off primers have a lot more variation than you might expect. Interesting stuff, but, as always, you just wind up having to test things in your guns.
Geezerbiker
New member
Could be or it could have been further back. Anyway it's not the case now so I'll let it slide. I've been reloading for around 40 years. Compared to some, I'm just a beginner...
Tony
jetinteriorguy
New member
I’ve been curious about the Mcarbo kit, I recently used one on my Taurus PT99, extremely good results. Triggershims.com also sells a complete spring/shims kit. But you have to measure what size shims you need with a feeler gauge before you order. This may be the problem with the Mcarbo kit, possibly the shims are too thick and causing some binding. My GP is so butter smooth it’s just plain sweet, now if I could only fix the false reset but so far nothing happening there. I just have to remember to go full trigger reset, unfortunately I’ve picked up the bad habit of feeling the reset on my semi autos so I unconsciously pull the trigger on the tiny false reset of the GP. I pretty much do all my shooting with any handguns rapid fire whether DA in a revolver or DA,SA with semi autos, so the false reset is a bit of an issue for me.
The Mcarbo kit came with 2 sets of shims, one set for the trigger and one set for the hammer.
Trigger shims had 4 shims total, thickness of 0.001 each, max of 0.004 shim
Hammer shims has 4 shims total, thickness of 0.005 each, max of 0.020 shim
I used all 4 shims for the trigger. it still has some play
I used 2 shims total for the hammer. 4 would not fit, and I did not want to use 3 and have it off set.
I have used several MCARBO kits in the past and they were great. Was really surprised this one did not work.
Bizzare about the increase in SA trigger weight. It does sound like some kind of binding situation. In your shoes, I would try working the shims back in a few at a time until you find what causes the binding.
The other thing worth doing is working the DA smooth before playing with changes. There is an old S&W armorer's school trick wherein you make a slurry of JB Bore compound and some Break-Free CLP that you have shaken the gee-whilikers out of to get the Teflon in suspension before making the slurry. The slurry is then put on all the moving parts and the DA is operated until it is all smooth.
It seems to work. I don't know if the current generation of CLP is the same or not, so I mix some JB with a little Mil-comm TW25B grease from a syringe applicator and add a little light oil for thinning the mix into a slurry. Seems to work just fine. It polishes and embeds a bit of the Teflon-like compound into the polished surface so it slides very, very smoothly.
The other thing worth doing is working the DA smooth before playing with changes. There is an old S&W armorer's school trick wherein you make a slurry of JB Bore compound and some Break-Free CLP that you have shaken the gee-whilikers out of to get the Teflon in suspension before making the slurry. The slurry is then put on all the moving parts and the DA is operated until it is all smooth.
It seems to work. I don't know if the current generation of CLP is the same or not, so I mix some JB with a little Mil-comm TW25B grease from a syringe applicator and add a little light oil for thinning the mix into a slurry. Seems to work just fine. It polishes and embeds a bit of the Teflon-like compound into the polished surface so it slides very, very smoothly.
It felt like the trigger was breaking further back. And seeing as it worked fine when I put the factory springs back in and shims were still in place. Still leads me to believe it was some how an issue with the springs.
I'm gonna gave to pass on polish everywhere so try and lap all the surfaces to each other. It would probably work, I just could bring myself to do something like that though.
I'm gonna gave to pass on polish everywhere so try and lap all the surfaces to each other. It would probably work, I just could bring myself to do something like that though.
jetinteriorguy
New member
Most of the polishing I did on my GP was with 1000 grit wet paper using cutting oil for lube. I just laid the trigger and hammer flat on the paper and slowly eliminated any possibility of rough edges. I did use some Flitz on a buffing wheel with my Dremel to polish up the sear surfaces. It was very simple to do and only took about an extra half hour as long as I already had the parts disassembled for shimming and spring replacement. I also took some Flitz and put it on the trigger and hammer pins and chucked them in a drill and ran them through the trigger and hammer just enough to polish them a bit.