New Tikka T3 Lite .308 owner with a few questions!

T

TikkaOwner

Inactive
Hi all,


I recently got a Tikka T3 Lite chambered in .308. Don't worry, I already installed a Limbsaver recoil pad :eek: I heard without one is quite painful with heavy loads.

I have a few questions for those who might know:

1. Will the 1:11 twist stabilize 175 grain SMK rounds just fine out to 1000 yards? Is the Federal 175 grain SMK BTHP the right round to do it? Using the JBM calculator, a 155 grain A-MAX @ 2800 fps has about the exact same trajectory as the 175 SMK @ 2650 fps. Does that sound right, so I could use these two rounds interchangeably with the same 200 yard zero?

2. Will frequent shooting of light, fast loads (150 grains @ 2,850/2,900) wear down the stainless steel barrel too fast?

3. Should I clean the barrel after each range trip, even if I only fire 10-15 rounds? Will a few patches with CLP do? Do I need a bore guide? Any particular cleaning kit or type of rod that you would recommend for this gun? I'm kind of new to bolt-actions incase you couldn't tell.

4. I bought an EGW 1 piece Picatinny scope mount (for a 4-14x IOR Valada), which I heard is pretty high quality. Should I use blue loctite, and do I need a torque wrench?

Thanks for the help guys! Any other random pointers on the .308 T3 are welcome.
 
I have owned a T3 in 223.

A few comments on cleaning. You can purchase a carbon fiber cleaning rod that will rule out any scratches. (The nylon coated steel rods are good until nylon gets sliced off exposing steel) They are offered by the Gunslick and Tipton brands. They have more flex than steel, which is why not everyone likes them. They are expensive but will last for years. You won't need a bore guide (it may however come handy to keep the rod straight on insertion) As for the cleaning solutions, there is no undisputed champion. I do clean after every shooting session, because powder residue and metal dust build up over time.
 
1. Yes, yes, no. Just because the two bullets have similar trajectories once launched does not guarantee the same point of impact. Barrel time and harmonics play a part. You will just have to shoot the gun and see where they land. Darn.

2. Define "too fast." The worst thing you can do is rapid fire of any full power load. The bullet and velocity are minor effects.

3. Yes, no, yes. I clean after every range visit whether ten or 80 shots. I use solvent then a LIGHT coat of oil. I have both polished stainless and carbon fibre rods, hard to see a difference. I use a bore guide, the throat is the weak point that gets most wear from erosion, no sense whacking it with a flexible rod all the time.

4. Partly, no. I Loctite bases to action but not rings to scope. I don't have a torque wrench and have not yet damaged a scope or had one come loose.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I ordered an IOR Valdada 4-14x50mm mil dot scope for the gun. Would Burris Xtreme Tactical Medium rings work, or do I need high rings? Thanks!
 
I can't imagine that .308 being to bad on recoil, it weighs a good pound more than my Encore pistol in the same cartridge. I was looking at a Tikka T3 Light chambered in a .338 Win Mag today and at a weight of 6.5lbs my first thought was "Heck No, not without a darn good break". The match up between a .338 and 6.5lbs is just wrong. It did make me reconsider the .300RUM however (also needs a good break).

Shoot the snot out of it, and enjoy the trigger time working up the loads!
 
Usually high rings for a 50mm bell are either just right, or not too high. Best, check the actual ring specs, and do your math. In theory the lower the better, but your comfort is more important for the practical accuracy.
 
Last edited:
New Tikka Owner

I also just bought a "like new" Tikka T3 in .308 and love it! My rifle is ss with the black composite stock and I have a Weaver 4x scope on it. The first few shots were low and to the right so after 2x adjusting the scope I now have a rifle that groups 1/2 inch at 100 yards on the bullseye! The trigger is excellent! The rifle is light but does not kick anymore than my Ruger Model 77 in .243! Why the need for heavy bullets? Try 150gr or 165gr(the military snipers make kill shots with this bullet at unbelievable distances) Always clean your rifle after shooting. Just because its stainless steel doesn't keep the rifling free of lead, copper and fouling! Many great cleaning products on the market. Just make sure to use a product designed for cleaning a gun. I cringe when people tell me about using 3 in 1 oil, kerosene, gasoline, fuel oil or motor oil on their guns! Why take a chance to save a few pennies? When its time to shoot, your life might depend on it working, or the trophy of a lifetime might be in your sights! :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top