New Savage Axis XP .243 Winchester

Wallyl

New member
Bought one this week from BPS. I have a Rem 700 in this caliber already, but I've had it for 40+ years and I feel it is just not as accurate as it used to be. To rebarrel would cost almost 3 times more than buying the Savage. I knew that sized brass and handloaded ammo that fit the 700, might not fit the chamber of the Savage. I was correct. With a sized case inserted into the Savage chamber; I could not close the bolt. Seems that the chamber is tighter in the Savage and I have to size my brass more to chamber in it. This is good news as typically a tighter chamber gives more accuracy. I have yet to shoot it. I am confident that I'll be most pleased with how accurate it is.
 
All I will add is: buy a good supply of copper remover. Even though they will shoot gnat's ass at 100 yds, the barrels are typically very rough.
 
Last year I bought a Savage Axis in the 7mm-08...the barrel was very smooth and I had no issues with copper fouling in it. The new .243 looks smooth as well, but I have yet to shoot it...maybe it too will be just fine.
 
Bought one this week from BPS. I have a Rem 700 in this caliber already, but I've had it for 40+ years and I feel it is just not as accurate as it used to be. To rebarrel would cost almost 3 times more than buying the Savage. I knew that sized brass and handloaded ammo that fit the 700, might not fit the chamber of the Savage. I was correct. With a sized case inserted into the Savage chamber; I could not close the bolt. Seems that the chamber is tighter in the Savage and I have to size my brass more to chamber in it. This is good news as typically a tighter chamber gives more accuracy. I have yet to shoot it. I am confident that I'll be most pleased with how accurate it is.
I am an Axis fan. IMHO, it has no price point equal. (Not list price but real world price)
 
All I will add is: buy a good supply of copper remover. Even though they will shoot gnat's ass at 100 yds, the barrels are typically very rough.
The thing I have found about Savages is they like to have Copper in the barrel. I used to scrub them until no blue. Then I decided I was just going to kinda clean one. I gave it about 10 strokes with 40x, then 2 patches of Hoppes Nitro, then a couple clean patches, then oil, then another couple clean patches. I could still see cu in barrel. It drove tacks. That is now how I clean all my Savages and they all shoot well on that regimen. Clean the high spots and let Cu build up in the low spots I guess. Whatever, it works.
 
Always best to try different things. GUNBLUE490 has a YouTube clip about this and states that it is unnecessary to remove copper fouling completely. The prudent man rule tells you to shoot groups with cleaning and without and see what you get.
 
Savage has excellent Customer Service; T/C Compass is a S & W acquisition and I have found theirs to be vastly inferior.
 
In the past I'd agree, but I think the T/C Compass is giving the Axis a run for its money. Both are definitely high value for your dollar rifles.
I have a couple of Compass rifles. They are indeed accurate. My only fault with them is the bolt is so ridiculously floppy in the action and rough. Their price has gone way up. I bought the two of mine at $160ish each.
 
I've got two 243's, first time in my life I ever had two rifle's chambered the same. I partial FL size so when I got the second I also picked up a second set of dies. Each die set dedicated to one rifle for the FL sizer. The die for the Mossberg will allow the sized case's to fit the Mossberg and Rem 700. The set for the 700 fit the 700 very well but you can't close the bolt with one in the Mossberg. Generally I believe the tighter chamber give's better accuracy because the case fit's that chamber. But, don't be surprised if you see the opposite now and then. I should mention also, I deticate a rifle, reguardless cartridge, to one bullet. Once the seating depth is where I want, the seating die for that rifle is locked in and never moved. I think it's important to do that as I doubt the distance from the bolt face to the lands are the same in every rifle!

Copper fouling I used to really labor on to remove. I don't do that anymore and find I don't need the fouling shot's to be on target with some fouling left in the barrel.
 
I've got two 243's, first time in my life I ever had two rifle's chambered the same. I partial FL size so when I got the second I also picked up a second set of dies. Each die set dedicated to one rifle for the FL sizer. The die for the Mossberg will allow the sized case's to fit the Mossberg and Rem 700. The set for the 700 fit the 700 very well but you can't close the bolt with one in the Mossberg. Generally I believe the tighter chamber give's better accuracy because the case fit's that chamber. But, don't be surprised if you see the opposite now and then. I should mention also, I deticate a rifle, reguardless cartridge, to one bullet. Once the seating depth is where I want, the seating die for that rifle is locked in and never moved. I think it's important to do that as I doubt the distance from the bolt face to the lands are the same in every rifle!

Copper fouling I used to really labor on to remove. I don't do that anymore and find I don't need the fouling shot's to be on target with some fouling left in the barrel.
I used to think the same. Now I think the only real advantage of sizing the least amount possible is prolonged brass life.
 
FL resized brass should fit. If it doesn't it's not sized correctly. Been using the same brass in my M1 Rifle and '03A4 for eons with no fuss.
"...typically a tighter chamber gives more accuracy..." No it doesn't. The chamber has nothing to do with accuracy.
"...Copper fouling I used to really labor on..." You're doing it wrong. You need to leave the solvent in the barrel long enough to work. As in not using endless patches. For a really dirty barrel, put a stopper in the muzzle, fill the barrel with solvent and leave it there for a hour or so. Then clean normally.
 
I don't clean the copper from my barrels unless something is going really sideways accuracy wise.
Hoppes #9, clean patches, oil and go on with life.
 
I've had 4 axes (?) never had a problem with any of them and all tack drivers. Didn't take especially good care of them either. Only thing I can think of is maybe if you're using used brass from your other rifle that it might have stretched/flowed in a way that the new savage components don't like.
 
I am not stagpanther, but the stocks shoot excellent as is. The only problem you might see is they are a bit flimsey for a bipod. You can fill in the channel with marine epoxy putty if you need stiff.
 
Stagpanther,

Did you ever do anything to modify the Savage Axis plastic stocks or use them "as is"?
I cannot tell a iie (I'd be called out by someone who knows me on the Savage forum) I do have a simple cheap fix for the Tupperware stocks by filling the foreend with marinetex and sanding the barrel channel back a bit. Is it needed? as Reynolds says many do not do this and still get great results.;) All that said--I haven't shot any of the newer Axis 2 synthetic stocks--I'm guessing they took care of the flex (but I'm not sure). The older Axis 1 synthetic stocks also tended to flex a bit in the comb area of you put any "meat pressure" on your cheek weld. Absolute worse case scenario is you'll be out 10 to 20 dollars in stiffening compound if you decide you don't like the stock movement (I've never seen any necessity to upgrade to a wood laminate). At the end of the day, what your buying with the axis is one of the best consumer grade barrel and actions available (arguable THE best at their price point IMO).
 
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If one uses the epoxy putty, does that remove all the flex in the forearm?
Not completely without putting some kind of rigid rod or plate in--just like a bedded pillar--which I've done, but is largely unnecessary since it should flex only slightly, the weight of the gun even on a bipod should not cause the barrel to contact the foreend.
 
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