New rifle defies physics?

When your rifle has been bore sighted, all you can expect is that it will hit paper. Fine adjustments must be made in order to zero. Bore sighting is for "ball park" only. When installing rings, I have found it very useful to use steel roundstock, snug it in, and then tighten the lower ring screws evenly and a little bit at a time. Once that is done, I remove the roundstock and install the scope onto the saddles, install the ring caps, and slowly and evenly snug down the rings alternating front to back. Once the scope is in but can still be moved, I position the scope for verticle and eye relief and then tighten the screws. Now it is time to bore sight. Once it has been boresighted, go to the range and set up a target at 25 yards. Fire one round. It should be on paper. If you are in the black, continue out to 100yds and zero. If you have to go near to end of adjustment, you will have to shim. I have found that aluminum soda cans work well for shims.
 
Barska should be called Bar s h i t ska because thats exactly what they are. I Bet the ammo makers love them they cause more people to waste ammo trying to sight them in than probably any other brand. I know because I was a victim once also.
 
Well, I've called them BARF-ska a few times, but haven't bought one, just looked them over and didn't think quality was very high.

The relatively low cost scope that's impressed me the most is the Mueller 4.5-14X. It's quite similar to the older Simmons ATV in that power range and may be made in the same factory, but quality is better. I've had three Simmons scopes and had to send one back for repairs, but they're all shooting well.

John
 
I bought a Savage MK II 22 LR and it came with the bases already installed but after shooting a box or so I noticed the bases were loose. Be sure your mounts are tight. Also, bore sighting by looking through the bore require precise eye alignment to the bore and I would wager that its hard to be sure you are dead center a light pole at 300 yds.

The best thing would be get a large target, box, etc and shoot close and see if you can get the group where you want it. Then you can see what the deal is with accurach
 
@Palmetto pride, I agree and another scope manufacturer with those problems is "I want to sell my rifle" Simmons. I see more rifles for sale with these pieces of garbage on them than you can shake a stick at.

Oh, I'll still buy a rifle with a Simmons or a Barska on it, but its getting tossed. No reason to waste ammo on junk scopes trying to sight them in. If you get lucky and can sight it in, it will no doubt fail you when you really need it (don't try and duplicate your zero once you've adjusted the scope for windage or elevation because of wind or terrain incline, the number of clicks on these has nothing to do with reality).

It took me the cost of a good scope, in bad scopes, before I learned my lesson never buy cheap scopes.

I always wonder how may good accurate rifles are put up for sale because someone couldn't get them to shoot straight with the garbage scope they came with or the owner cheaped out and put on them.
 
My savage 22-250 with Bushnell banner is a tack driver out to 200 yards.

Savage 17hmr has either a Simmons or tasco on it. Its dead on out to 100yards.
 
I bought the Barska at a huge discount (alarm bell). Had never heard of them, and at that time there was next to nothing about them known. And now I know one thing about them; I have bought my first and last Barska.

It is sighted in at 100 yards now with the Bushnell 4x on it. Groups nicely. It feels like it is near the end of travel for windage, but not at it. I don't mess with my windage once its sighted in unless I have to so I think I will leave it alone.

Even now the difference between where the scope is aimed and where the bore is pointed is enough to notice with no doubt. Put the crosshairs on an object 50 yards out and you can't see the object through the bore unless you move to one side far enough that you can't see one side of the barrel.

I am thinking of getting a nice Nikon Monarch or Buckmaster though.
 
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