new pistol: RIA GI 1911a1.....10MM!

Geezerbiker said:
I've been using the Wilson buffers for a long time in my Springfield Armory .45 M1911 and I haven't had and malfunctions that weren't happening before. It has always had the problem of occasionally hitting me in the forehead with an ejected case but it's always done that.

Tony
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I have a thread where I had them in a full-size Wilson. With certain ammunition the Shok Buffs would occasionally cause failures to feed (PMC Bronze IIRC). My impression was the recoil spring wasn’t compressing as it would otherwise. Removing the Shok Buffs eliminated the issue. With Federal ammunition I had no such issues, but over the past year I didn’t always get to be choosy with ammunition. The only other issue I have had with Shok Buffs in both my Wilson and the Springfield Armory Range Officer I had was I couldn’t release the slide with the slide release with the Shok Buffs installed.


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I only shoot my own reloads so that could be the difference. I figure if they're not causing me problems and they might save me from a cracked frame so I'll continue using them... YMMV...

Tony
 
shock buffs

Can one use the Shok-Buffs, or their equivalent on a one piece guide rod assembly as used in my new RIA? If so, can somebody post a pic of how their arrangedl

A heavier mainspring is a good idea........duly noted.
 
I have RIA in 10mm with adj sights that has been flawless. As to shok-buffs. Browning didn't see the need when he designed the 1911 and there are not needed now. CMP just sold a bunch of 1911's that were shot to hades and back. They still function. Lots of times when one starts changing out factory parts for aftermarket they create a gun that won't run(function). Saying that my 1911's have run for over 40 years with just factory springs and are no worse for wear.
 
The Happy kaboomer said:
As to shok-buffs. Browning didn't see the need when he designed the 1911 and there are not needed now.
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Boomer, remember he never design it for a round over 750-800 fps. Even some factory loads can put you at 1200 fps. with the 10mm.

It's a hot tamale.:)
Ruger uses titanium I believe to beef theirs up.
 
buffs

Yeah, what he said! The .45acp operates at a listed 21,000 psi. The 10mm Auto at 37,500. Early Colt Deltas had frame crack problem near the takedown lever slot. One of Colt's solutions was to open that slot up completely. I'd hazard an opinion that the 10mm Auto pressures are likely the ceiling for 1911 style pistols.

I'd think anything that did not compromise reliability, but lessened frame battering would be a big step in the right direction for a 10mm/1911 made by anybody. If I can fit a buffer to the RIA and it runs OK, I'll keep it installed.

Right now I'm still working out my premature slide lock issue, 4 instances now in 100 rds. I'll keep you posted.
 
Depending on who you believe, the 9x23 WIN runs at either 45k or 55k, but you don't see that round much, anymore, and especially not in drop-in barrel form.
I've run buffs in two guns; one shredded them in 150 rounds, because the edges of the slide are quite sharp, and the other gun showed almost no wear on the buffs after hundreds of rounds, so I decided to take the buffs out of both.
I had a Cominolli Frame Saver guide rod in my 10mm, and I don't shoot enough 10 to really need the extra "protection" of buffers on both sides of the guide rod head, so I'm back to the stock Colt rod, which has a plastic, shock-absorbing head.
 
Notice that S&W, CZ, Dan Wesson, and all other 10mm autos come without shok buffs from the factory. If the gun engineers figured they needed them they would have included them. Just another gimmick.
 
premature slide lock

The RIA 10mm as prematurely locked open on a partial mag, 4 times in the initial 100 rds. Recently I pulled a modified, "dimpled" slide lock lever from another 1911 format pistol and installed same into the RIA. Test fire w/ 102 rds of mixed profile and load ammo, same magazine and........no false locks!!!!!!:) All shooting till mag was empty, slide locked open correctly with every string!

The RIA slide lock lever has a factory made small dimple or recess on its face, but apparently not enough to resolve my false lock issue. My plan is to increase the dimple on the RIA part. The issue is likely a combination of bullet nose striking the lock lever lug, and lever bounce with 10mm recoil. I've already relieved the lug as much as I am willing. A pal with a mill cut my last dimple and I'll prevail upon him for this one too!
 
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