New "O-66" Garand

I think you have a screw loose. No, I mean that literally. Are you aware the screw that holds the elevation knob on can be loosened and moved without moving the sight (you have to hold onto the sight) in order to get the range numbers correctly aligned with the index mark on the frame? You then tighten the screw and the pinion that raises the sight then stops slipping. If this doesn't work, you need a new knob.

I recommend this approach. Turn (or push) the rear sight all the way down. Rotate the knob (also down) until the 100-yard mark lines up with the index line on the frame and then keep turning for 10 more clicks. Hang onto the knob and with your other hand, use a screwdriver to tighten the screw. Afterward, turning the knob the other way should raise the sight again.

10 clicks from the bottom is a sort of average-ish number for getting the knob range numbers correct for 100 yards with a 6:00 hold (it may be off a click one way or the other, but you have to start somewhere). So, with the screw now tight, turn the top of the knob toward you until the 200 mark is next to the index mark on the frame and go back to your 200-yard range and see if you are about there.
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Thanks, Nick--I'll give it a whirl.
 
Here's an interesting piece of trivia about your rifle. The rear handguard band looks to be a grooved version. The earliest grooved versions were stamped on the inside with the drawing #B8870 and latter grooved had no stamped drawing number. The grooved bands only went through the fall of 1942 production but on a mix master they turn up every now and then but you really don't see them much like the grooved lower bands. Pretty cool really.

Enjoy the rifle and may it bring you many happy hours on the range.

Ron
 
You really don't see them much. I have a grooved lower band in my parts box but don't think I have an upper. They are sought after by guys who want to make a rifle correct.

Calfed, if you want a newer band I will be happy to send you one as I have plenty of them. This way you can hang on to the more sought after band. Just shoot me a PM and I'll drop one in the mail. It's on me. :)

Ron
 
Just keep in mind that the lower handguard wood is thin. It really helps to have one of the special pliers for getting those handguard clips on and off.
 
I should have mentioned that. The right tool helps a good bit. I have seen countless upper hand guards split as a result of guys trying to get the band off using a screwdriver or other tool trying to pry the band off.

On another note your rifle looks to have a well oil soaked stock which is very dark in color. There are countless pages written on how to refinish a stock but I can share what worked well for me years ago when I was really into the Garands.

I would fill a deep sink with TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) available from any home improvement or hardware store. Fill the deepsink with TSP and scalding hot water. Then place all the wood in the cleaning solution. Yes, in the below image that is a rock I use to hold the stocks down in the solution. :)

Stocks%20Sink%201.png


The green pad is just everyday scotchbrite. About every 30 min I remove the wood and scrub it down with the scotchbrite pad. I generally leave the wood in the cleaner for about an hour or two.

I remove the wood and allow it to dry for a day or so in the sun. Just an average sunshine day or overnight indoors. You don't want it to dry too fast and we don't want split wood.

Stocks%202.png


The below wood has been cleaned and I used Birchwood Casey Tru Oil for the finish. You can use BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). Tung Oil or any number of other finishes. The pictures stock is an original GI later stock made from Birch, they were commonly called the orange wood stocks.

https://www.bearblain.com/images/Stocks%203.png

The end result comes out like this.

Stocks%204.png


There are as I mentioned, countless ways to refinish a M1 Garand stock and I only mention one method I liked using. Brownell's still sells a whiting compound paste which is used to draw years of dirt and oil out of a GI stock. Then too, you may just want to enjoy it and shoot it as is. :)

I also bought new stocks from Boyds Gun Stocks over the years.

The posted images are mine and linked to a domain which I own anyone can feel free to lift them but please don't link to my domain.

Ron
 
Here's an interesting piece of trivia about your rifle. The rear handguard band looks to be a grooved version. The earliest grooved versions were stamped on the inside with the drawing #B8870 and latter grooved had no stamped drawing number. The grooved bands only went through the fall of 1942 production but on a mix master they turn up every now and then but you really don't see them much like the grooved lower bands. Pretty cool really.

Enjoy the rifle and may it bring you many happy hours on the range.

Ron
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Thanks for the information about that handguard band, Ron!
 
You really don't see them much. I have a grooved lower band in my parts box but don't think I have an upper. They are sought after by guys who want to make a rifle correct.

Calfed, if you want a newer band I will be happy to send you one as I have plenty of them. This way you can hang on to the more sought after band. Just shoot me a PM and I'll drop one in the mail. It's on me.

Ron
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Thanks, again Ron...PM sent.
 
I am not into Garands but that is one nice rifle. I do appreciate them.

Agreed on the wood. Keep it, clean it up if you want but it looks darned good.
 
I know the stock resembles the oil, cosmoline soaked stocks that you sometimes see, but this one is simply darkly stained...it is bone-dry.
 
On the way, I sent it USPS this morning so figure several days to CA. I wrapped it in a napkin and 3X5 index carrd. :) If you don't see it in a week or so we can worry. :) Also, remember how thin that rear handguard wood is so if you don't have the tool, be real careful.

Ron
 
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