New LCR Broken

What happens if you need it right now to save your life and you short stroke it in the heat of the moment?

Um, you release the pressure on the trigger, let it reset, and then continue shooting. Even as a died-in-the-wool S&W guy who noticed the longer trigger pull of the LCR right off the bat, I didn't think it was all that difficult to get used to when I shot one. So long as a person practices enough to be familiar with the gun (as you should with any defensive firearm), I very much doubt that short stroking would be an issue.

As to the OP's situation, once the gun is back from Ruger you will have no greater chance of malfunction with it than a brand-new untested gun. Anything man-made can fail and you were simply unfortunate enough to get a gun with a defective part. Once you get the gun back, simply test it for reliability as you should with any new gun before relying on it. If it proves reliable after Ruger fixes it, then don't worry about it any more. The real lesson to be learned here is the importance of thoroughly testing all guns for reliability before depending upon them to defend your life.
 
I was very disappointed by one of these earlier this year, which is sad, because I really wanted to like it.

My experience with the LCR was pretty negative, very tight chambers that were difficult to extract (same ammo shot through two j-frames worked fine) and a trigger that was light, but had a vague and very long reset,which often caused me to short stroke. In addition, it's a bit bulky and although it's made largely of plastic, it isn't much lighter than all aluminum revolvers.

I put about 100 rounds through one this summer and went back to my J-frame. A heavier trigger, sure, but, no short stroking issues to train around.


That is EXACTLY my experience with the gun. Had a 357 and WANTED to like it so bad. In the end I bought a 640 Pro and back to Smiths.....
 
Thanks for the replies everybody. I'll keep you all posted as things progress. I'll do my best to run the gun through its paces when it comes back and then decide what to do with it.
 
I just can't put the money down on a LCR. I shoot snub .38 Specials more than anyone I know, and more than the next 3 snub shooters combined. And the LCR just doesn't do it for me. It reminds me too much of a 1987 M85 fake chrome finish Taurus.
 
Sounds like a fluke occurence. Every manufacturer has a few. That's why you dryfire and shoot a gun several hundred rounds before you trust it completely. And there is nothing wrong with dryfiring most centerfire guns. If there was the manufacturer would warn against it. Do you think they don't know what will damage their guns? Do you think they want to do free repairs?
IMHO, the LCR has as good a DA pull as any Colt or Smith I've ever tried and better than 90% of them. Shoot what you like and trust. For me the KLCR is the perfect balance of power, accuracy (even out to 50 yards), price, weight, size and trigger pull to be an excellent CCW.
 
You short stroke any revolver, and the majority of semi autos the gun wont fire theve all got a restet that has to be met for it to work, and if you think that because your gun hasnt had one hiccup in x # of rounds that it cant happen the first time right when you need it most guess what youre setting yourself up for. Ive heard mixed reviews on that lcr. Realy like the revolver still holding on buying one but its like one already posted. Sell it at a loss because it needed repair and the problem went away? thats silly to me but its your $ your concience and your security.
 
A) Ruger says right in the manual that dry firing the weapon is perfectly all right but they warn you to remove the flat plastic yellow shipping disc that comes inside the gun out-of-the-box.

B) Ruger says in the manual that you must allow the trigger to fully reset after each pull.

So, dry firing is fine for the gun, and the issue might be a fluke but apparently Ruger knows its a POTENTIAL problem.
 
As to the OP's situation, once the gun is back from Ruger you will have no greater chance of malfunction with it than a brand-new untested gun. Anything man-made can fail and you were simply unfortunate enough to get a gun with a defective part.

Good advice, but only if the problem is related to a defective part. If the problem is related to a design defect (and I'm not saying it is), the chance of another malfunction happening will always be a possibility ready to rear its ugly head.
 
Have to admit I am amazed at the number of people who think dry firing a center fire handgun is some how harmful and will "break" the gun. If a firearm design won't stand up to dry firing it needs to be redesigned or dropped from production.

Dave
 
Update:

Received my LCR back from Ruger today. Notes simply said that they replaced the transfer bar and the pawl.

There is now a very slight change in the revolver's operation. Prior to being sent in, light pressure on the trigger wouild drop the piece that holds the cylinder in place allowing the cylinder to rotate. Now, the same light pressure on the trigger doesn't quite take that piece out of alignment, meaning it requires more pressure on the trigger to allow the cylinder to begin rotating. The feel of the trigger remain unchanged. Interesting.

So, a couple weeks turnaround time. Not bad.
 
Glad Ruger turned it around so quickly. Their service really is tops.

Shoot a few hundred rounds through it before you make your final decision. You may find that it becomes your new best friend.
 
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My new KLCR has a heavier trigger pull than my old 38+P guns.

Is the spring heavier in the .357s to insure ignition with Magnum primers?
 
Sorry to hear about your LCR woes ... I tried one at a gunstore and was very disappointed in the trigger action, it felt gritty, long and uncomfortable compared to my Smith 637, so I passed ... I dry-fire the Smith all the time and it continues to soldier on ...
 
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