New holster disappointment

rickdavis81

New member
My new Bianchi Shadow II holster came in today for my 1911. I love the look, fit and finish. But I can't use the thumb break strap with it cocked and locked. I wanted a thumb break holster for on the bike. I'm tempted to cut the straps off and use it like it is. But how do I finish the exposed leather so it doesn't wear? Any other suggestions or thumbbreak holsters that I can use C&L?
 
Can't use the thumb break straps

Can't use the thumb break straps...
Why?
I bought a Bianchi #5 for my Ruger SP-101. I arrived labled for a "J" frame or Model 60. I soaked the strap, that goes over the top in alcohol real good and after the holster would snap with the gun in it, I soaked it again and let the gun sit in it over night.
 
I had a problem finding what I wanted from the various holster makers so I went to a saddle shop. The guy made exactly what I wanted and for less money than the big guys wanted.
 
Galco makes one with a thumb break that is made for carry locked & cocked, called the "SILHOUETTE" $73. 95. They make a bunch of different kinds for that type of carry, most don't have the safety strap but some do like the "SILHOUETTE" check out GALCOGUNLEATHER.COM. Not cheap, but you do get what you pay for.
 
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Some times the thumb straps need a little "stretching" when new. Go to a shoe repair shop and ask for leather stretch solution. You want it to be snug when it gets broken in. Make sure the pistol is fully seated in the holster. Bianchi builds tight leather but it will last forever.
 
Some of the thumb strap holster for the 1911 or BHP for that matter don't allow Cocked N Locked carry. You have to be carefull with what you buy. Don't cut off the straps. Call the company. They may exchange it. If you cut it, you're out of luck.
 
Did I miss something? All of the holsters I have for 1911 style are almost too short to go around with the hammer down. I carry only CAL.
 
Bianchi has a habit of making the snaps a hair "Short".

I saw two other guys complain about, and I had a similar problem with this particular holster(Shadow II)

On a Sig 226 holster, the flap is too short to snap over the gun, by about
1/2". I'll hafta get it either lengthened or stretched.....

Not a HUGE hassle, nice holster, but you shouldn't have to do that :rolleyes:
 
Icopy1 Some of the thumb strap holster for the 1911 or BHP for that matter don't allow Cocked N Locked carry. You have to be carefull with what you buy. Don't cut off the straps. Call the company. They may exchange it. If you cut it, you're out of luck.

So how would you carry a 1911 with a thumb strap if it has one? Cocked and locked has the hammer fully cocked and safety on, the strap goes around the slide only, between the hammer and slide.???
With the hammer down you would need to have a greater length strap, and half cock even longer also not a good idea:confused:
 
total nooby question as I only carry DAO, but can someone explain to me what cocked and locked means... i.e. one in chamber, safety, hammer?
 
I don't know what changes they might have made from the Shadow to the Shadow II but I've used a Shadow #7 for years. Seems I do recall that it took some stretching to get it snapped up the first few times. All leather stretches out a bit so I think it's better to be snug to start and stretch out to a good fit than start good and stretch to a sloppy fit. If you get it snapped one time and put some oil on it and leave it over night, I think you'll find that it gets easier each time after.

BTW, mine won't close with the hammer down either.
 
My new Bianchi Shadow II holster came in today for my 1911. I love the look, fit and finish. But I can't use the thumb break strap with it cocked and locked. I wanted a thumb break holster for on the bike. I'm tempted to cut the straps off and use it like it is. But how do I finish the exposed leather so it doesn't wear? Any other suggestions or thumbbreak holsters that I can use C&L?

Rick, . . .there is an old time trick that I would suggest will work for you.

First, . . . is the snap itself defective? Will it snap together without the weapon being in the holster. If that answer is yes, . . . answer the second question: does your holster just "almost" snap, . . . but not quite?

Most holster makers (myself included) make them tight, knowing that the leather can stretch and still be useable, . . . but once stretched too far, . . . it should be scrapped.

If it "almost" snaps, . . . unload your weapon, . . . cock and lock it, . . . put it in a one gallon plastic freezer bag.

Lay your holster on a register that does not get too hot, . . . and let it get real good and warm, . . . inside and out.

Force the "weapon in the bag" down into the warmed leather holster with both hands. Let it set there over night, . . . take it out of the bag, . . . put it into the holster and see if it now snaps.

You may have to do it a couple of times, . . . you may have to use a couple of bags, . . . but if it is properly made, . . . there should be enough stretch and give to allow the weapon a bit deeper into the cavity, . . . and the strap to stretch up just enough to snap.

You don't say what weapon you have, . . . but I know for a fact that there are some Springfield Armory stainless 1911's that are oversized and are hard to fit in a standard holster. Perseverance will prevail though, if that is the case and you are willing to push the envelope (good analogy, . . . but no pun intended).

May God bless,
Dwight
 
Rick, I concur with what some have said, it will take time for the snap to stretch and even then it shouldn't ever be too easy to put on. I've use the Shadow II for my 228 for at least 10 years and it is still tight. At first it was really tight but eventually stretched. Yes, it is a bit of a pain when I holster the weapon but I never worry that it will slip out or come loose and that is comforting when carrying concealed.

Dwight's tip sounds good too. As has been said DO NOT cut the straps. Bianchi will take it back if you don't like it but cut it and it's yours for life. :)
 
Rick,

I addition to Dwight's suggestion, also check the snap buttons themselves. Some of the snaps are retained by a small phillips screw inside the snap. Some mfrs (notably both Bianchi & Safariland) cut a short slot in the thumbreak's inside strap (closest to the body) so the snap's position could be changed about ¼" for variations.

If so equipped, back the screw off about 180°, move the snap up as high as you can, then try closing the strap around the gun. Once you verify you can snap it shut, Loctite® the screw into place or use nail polish. Leave the gun in the holster in sunlight or in a warm place for 24 hours. That should stretch the strap enough to allow it to be snapped shut.

I've also found that using a hair dryer on the upper portion of a leather holster will soften the leather enough to allow stretching. Keep the holster at least 8" from the dryer and let it warm up until it is "toasty warm" (hot, but not too hot to handle). Then stuff the empty gun into the holster tight, cock the hammer and close the strap. Let it sit for 24 hours.

If all else fails, contact Bianchi -- once in a while someone cuts a strap just a wee bit short.

Good luck.
 
One other thought on the Bianchi #7. All carry guns are going to get holster wear but the inside of the strap where the male part of the snap is riveted on will leave a nice little round wear mark on the slide in pretty short order. Never bothered me much but if it might bother you, you might want to think about a piece of tape or something to cover the rivet. Of course it would have to replaced periodically.

Another thought. I carried a Colt Delta Gold Cup in it for years. When I tried to put my Metro Arms Firestorm in it the extended slide stop made it a bit balky for a while. Enough in and out and it's conformed nicely to it.
 
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It's a Taurus PT1911. It's like the strap was cut to be snapped with the hammer down. It fits very well like this. But if i try to snap it with it c&l the strap doesn't have enough stretch on one side and too much on the other and bunches up. Like if I were to bend it sideways. I think that makes sense.
 
Rick, I have one too and it was not made for condition 1. You would have to cut a notch in the strap for the hammer. That's why I told you about Galco, They make great rigs for that type of carry. I wear mine on horse back and like it the way it is.
 
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