My new Bianchi Shadow II holster came in today for my 1911. I love the look, fit and finish. But I can't use the thumb break strap with it cocked and locked. I wanted a thumb break holster for on the bike. I'm tempted to cut the straps off and use it like it is. But how do I finish the exposed leather so it doesn't wear? Any other suggestions or thumbbreak holsters that I can use C&L?
Rick, . . .there is an old time trick that I would suggest will work for you.
First, . . . is the snap itself defective? Will it snap together without the weapon being in the holster. If that answer is yes, . . . answer the second question: does your holster just "almost" snap, . . . but not quite?
Most holster makers (myself included) make them tight, knowing that the leather can stretch and still be useable, . . . but once stretched too far, . . . it should be scrapped.
If it "almost" snaps, . . . unload your weapon, . . . cock and lock it, . . . put it in a one gallon plastic freezer bag.
Lay your holster on a register that does not get too hot, . . . and let it get real good and warm, . . . inside and out.
Force the "weapon in the bag" down into the warmed leather holster with both hands. Let it set there over night, . . . take it out of the bag, . . . put it into the holster and see if it now snaps.
You may have to do it a couple of times, . . . you may have to use a couple of bags, . . . but if it is properly made, . . . there should be enough stretch and give to allow the weapon a bit deeper into the cavity, . . . and the strap to stretch up just enough to snap.
You don't say what weapon you have, . . . but I know for a fact that there are some Springfield Armory stainless 1911's that are oversized and are hard to fit in a standard holster. Perseverance will prevail though, if that is the case and you are willing to push the envelope (good analogy, . . . but no pun intended).
May God bless,
Dwight