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new barrel break-in
- Thread starter Lilswede1
- Start date
4runnerman
New member
snyper- There is no evidence it does not make a difference.
4runnerman
New member
Clark- You did not post his whole story-Gale also believes in barrel break in.I woild post what he said but I don't know if that is copy right rules to this place.
Mods if it is please erase it fast.
What is the Best Way to Break-in a Barrel?
There are three schools of thought on barrel break-in. First, famed barrel-maker Gail McMillan believed “less is more”. Simply shoot five shots, clean, shoot another five shots, clean, and then clean every 5-10 shots or so over the life of the barrel. He argued that the “one-shot, one-clean” ritual was a gimmick devised by barrel makers to wear out barrels more quickly so they can sell more product. He rightly points out that every shot down the tube just reduces your barrel’s maximum accuracy life.
The second school of thought, with Krieger in this camp, suggests to shoot and clean after every shot for 5 shots, then again after every 3 shots, until fouling is not noticeable: “Initially you should perform the shoot-one-shot-and-clean cycle for five cycles. If fouling hasn’t reduced, fire five more cycles and so on until fouling begins to drop off. At that point shoot three shots before cleaning and observe. If fouling is reduced, fire five shots before cleaning.” Full Article.
The third and last school of thought says to clean aggressively after every shot for a dozen shots or more, and to use an abrasive lapping compound such as JB after each of the first few shots. The idea is that this will “polish” up the throat to reduce fouling and enhance velocity. Along with bore paste, you can fire-lap the bore using bullets impregnated with fine abrasives. This is done most easily with the Tubb Final Finish system which contains bullets with five different grit levels. So, what procedure should you follow? We think Gale McMillan is probably right, but he was talking about fine custom barrels that are already hand-lapped to a mirror finish. If your barrel is rough to start out with, the other methods have some merit. We would not use Final Finish on a hand-lapped custom barrel however.
Mods if it is please erase it fast.
What is the Best Way to Break-in a Barrel?
There are three schools of thought on barrel break-in. First, famed barrel-maker Gail McMillan believed “less is more”. Simply shoot five shots, clean, shoot another five shots, clean, and then clean every 5-10 shots or so over the life of the barrel. He argued that the “one-shot, one-clean” ritual was a gimmick devised by barrel makers to wear out barrels more quickly so they can sell more product. He rightly points out that every shot down the tube just reduces your barrel’s maximum accuracy life.
The second school of thought, with Krieger in this camp, suggests to shoot and clean after every shot for 5 shots, then again after every 3 shots, until fouling is not noticeable: “Initially you should perform the shoot-one-shot-and-clean cycle for five cycles. If fouling hasn’t reduced, fire five more cycles and so on until fouling begins to drop off. At that point shoot three shots before cleaning and observe. If fouling is reduced, fire five shots before cleaning.” Full Article.
The third and last school of thought says to clean aggressively after every shot for a dozen shots or more, and to use an abrasive lapping compound such as JB after each of the first few shots. The idea is that this will “polish” up the throat to reduce fouling and enhance velocity. Along with bore paste, you can fire-lap the bore using bullets impregnated with fine abrasives. This is done most easily with the Tubb Final Finish system which contains bullets with five different grit levels. So, what procedure should you follow? We think Gale McMillan is probably right, but he was talking about fine custom barrels that are already hand-lapped to a mirror finish. If your barrel is rough to start out with, the other methods have some merit. We would not use Final Finish on a hand-lapped custom barrel however.
The fact that barrels which have had no procedure are as accurate and easy to clean as those that have is evidence it makes no realistic differencesnyper- There is no evidence it does not make a difference.
Here's another McMillan statement saying it's not really needed:
http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/Barrel_BreakIn.asp
He summerized by saying:
I always say Monkey see Monkey do, now I will wait on the flames but before you write them, Please include what you think is happening inside your barrel during break in that is worth the expense and time you are spending during break in
In a later post he says:
Thats right. it is a waste of barrel and time.
66% of people here say it's a waste of time, while only 15% thinks it's "needed":
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465003
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Mr.RevolverGuy
New member
Howa Break In Procedures
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR GUN BARRELS USING JACKETED BULLETS
For the first ten shots we recommend using jacketed bullets with a nitro powder load (Most Factory Ammo).
Clean the oil out of the barrel before each shot using a simple window cleaner (like Windex®) which will soak
the oil out of the pores. After firing each cartridge, use a good copper cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove
the copper fouling from the barrel. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are
trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated.
After cleaning with bore cleaner, clean again with window cleaner after each shot. Use window cleaner
because many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove before firing the next shot.
This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon).
To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must
remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will
destroy the steel’s ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make
the barrel “walk” when it heats up in the future. We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot
high and then “walk” to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel (generally by sitting
at a bench rest and shooting 20 rounds in 5 minutes or so). If you take a little time in the beginning and do it
right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future.
Look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, and you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel.
Remove this before firing the next shot. Somewhere during the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be
obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue the window cleaner and bore
cleaner applications through shot 10.
Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots, for the
next 10 shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed.
In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed through the
cutting and hand lapping procedures.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR BARRELS USING LEAD BULLETS
The same shooting-cleaning process may be used when firing lead bullets and black powder with this
exception: shoot 2 cartridges, then clean for the first 30 rounds. Naturally, you will use a cleaner appropriate
for black powder. You can also use harder lead if available to accelerate the break in. This will accomplish the
same as the jacketed bullets.
It may take 80 to 100 rounds to break in with lead. That is why we recommend using jacketed bullets when
possible. After this procedure, your barrel’s interior surface will be sealed and should shoot cleaner and
develop less fouling for the rest of its shooting life.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR GUN BARRELS USING JACKETED BULLETS
For the first ten shots we recommend using jacketed bullets with a nitro powder load (Most Factory Ammo).
Clean the oil out of the barrel before each shot using a simple window cleaner (like Windex®) which will soak
the oil out of the pores. After firing each cartridge, use a good copper cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove
the copper fouling from the barrel. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are
trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated.
After cleaning with bore cleaner, clean again with window cleaner after each shot. Use window cleaner
because many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove before firing the next shot.
This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon).
To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must
remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will
destroy the steel’s ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make
the barrel “walk” when it heats up in the future. We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot
high and then “walk” to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel (generally by sitting
at a bench rest and shooting 20 rounds in 5 minutes or so). If you take a little time in the beginning and do it
right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future.
Look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, and you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel.
Remove this before firing the next shot. Somewhere during the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be
obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue the window cleaner and bore
cleaner applications through shot 10.
Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots, for the
next 10 shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed.
In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed through the
cutting and hand lapping procedures.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR BARRELS USING LEAD BULLETS
The same shooting-cleaning process may be used when firing lead bullets and black powder with this
exception: shoot 2 cartridges, then clean for the first 30 rounds. Naturally, you will use a cleaner appropriate
for black powder. You can also use harder lead if available to accelerate the break in. This will accomplish the
same as the jacketed bullets.
It may take 80 to 100 rounds to break in with lead. That is why we recommend using jacketed bullets when
possible. After this procedure, your barrel’s interior surface will be sealed and should shoot cleaner and
develop less fouling for the rest of its shooting life.
I am tempted by the idea that it does not matter if one believes in barrel break in or not.
A) If barrels need a break in, then the shooter will be forced by reduced accuracy to clean more often when the barrel is new, and will be following a break in procedure, whether he believes in it or not.
B) If barrels do not need a break in, and the shooter cleans more often than needed, no harm done.
The difference in benefits of the two points of view may be so small it cannot be measured in reproducible controlled tests.
But that does not affect the hysteretic lock an opinion can have on the human mind, and always sees evidence to support his point of view.
A) If barrels need a break in, then the shooter will be forced by reduced accuracy to clean more often when the barrel is new, and will be following a break in procedure, whether he believes in it or not.
B) If barrels do not need a break in, and the shooter cleans more often than needed, no harm done.
The difference in benefits of the two points of view may be so small it cannot be measured in reproducible controlled tests.
But that does not affect the hysteretic lock an opinion can have on the human mind, and always sees evidence to support his point of view.
4runnerman
New member
snyper- What it does is help smooth out the edges of the throat from reaming. It also make the barrel easier to clean down the road ( fouls less). As I stated before- It is a one time deal. It's not a life long process. My F Class rig gets cleaned every 30 to 50 rounds ( depending on the match I am in.) Never have had a problem with damaging the barrel from over cleaning. I am not standing there forcing you to break in your barrel. If you don't ( as I said) That is fine.
As for wearing out a barrel faster- Lets consider the normal Hunter. If he does break his barrel in and clean it always, The amount of shots taken each year as compared to wearing out his barrel. Well lets just say-If a barrel manufacturer is counting on more barrel sales by this- Well his doors will be closed very shortly. Most deer rifles will last the purchasers life time and his son's and his grandson's. No big barrel sales here.
I also use Microlone Gun Juice. Do we need to debate this also. Is this also a omen or waste of time in your book?.
Lets just leave it at some of us do and some of us don't.
As for wearing out a barrel faster- Lets consider the normal Hunter. If he does break his barrel in and clean it always, The amount of shots taken each year as compared to wearing out his barrel. Well lets just say-If a barrel manufacturer is counting on more barrel sales by this- Well his doors will be closed very shortly. Most deer rifles will last the purchasers life time and his son's and his grandson's. No big barrel sales here.
I also use Microlone Gun Juice. Do we need to debate this also. Is this also a omen or waste of time in your book?.
Lets just leave it at some of us do and some of us don't.
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That may be what "lapping" doessnyper- What it does is help smooth out the edges of the throat from reaming
"Break-in" is just normal cleaning at an abnormal frequency, and does nothing that changes the barrel at all, unless the rod rubs on something it shouldn't.
Simply firing the gun will do more to "smooth out the edges" than running a brush through it will
4runnerman
New member
It does excatly what lapping does, But short of my F Class rifles most barrels are not lapped when you buy a rifle. It aid's in faster clean up for sure also. By simply firing the rifle over and over what you do is pound those rough edges ( burs if you will ) down into the riffeling. Cleaning your barrel in between that pulls those burs out so they do not imbed in the rifling. After 20 to 50 rounds you are good to go.
Didn't you say "all the top competition shooters do it"?But short of my F Class rifles most barrels are not lapped when you buy a rifle.
If those barrels come already lapped, it seems pointless, doesn't it?
4runnerman
New member
No not pointless- It still makes your cleaning easier and faster.