Took my brand spanking new 7 shot 4" 686 out to the desert yeterday to wring it out for the first time and after about an hour of shooting light .38 Specials and light to moderate .357 loads, the cylinder started to freeze up on me intermitintly. Shorty thereafter, the hand would not rotate the cylinder after either the fifth or sixth pull of the trigger and continues to do this as I dry fire it with snapcaps this evening. If this is typical of the kind of product that S&W is putting on the market these days then I have purchased my very last Smith handgun. I have read of other incidents of this very nature on other handgun forums concerning this same model. I don't know if it has something to do with the internal lock malfunctioning and causing the hangups or just pi**poor quality control at the factory but in either case, I now have a $525 paperweight in my gun safe and am faced with the major hassle of sending a firearm through the mail back to the factory for repair and then back to me again with a who knows when turn around time. I am seriously considering just taking this piece of junk to a gunshop, telling them what the problem is and asking for whatever they will give me for it just to get it out of my life forever. I am so pi**ed off at S&W right now I could spit blood. I have lost my confidence in a handgun manufacturer whose very name was synonomous with quality and value. As far as I'm concerned, S&W is now synonomous with CRAP. Ruger here I come. Fleiger
New 686 field test: EXTREMELY DISSAPPOINTED
- Thread starter fleiger
- Start date
That does suck , nothing is worse than when you go out and get a nice "toy" be it anything and find out it is a piece of sh....t. I myself own 3 ruger double action revo's and they have operated flawlessly for me. Their reliability is so I would stake my life on one if god forbid I ever needed to. However after reading these forums I still find people getting pis...ed because the sp101 they bought "froze up" or the "transfer bar" broke on their gp100 after very light dryfiring. NIB. I even seen a pic of a gentleman's used gp100 cylinder touching the frame of the weapon when opened or closed. Now I still say that after seeing this I still beleive my rugers to be very reliable and would stake my life on them if need be. Its not the brand just the simple fact that sometimes a good company can turn out an occasional lemon. Just a simple yet sad fact of life. 
It is understandable that you would be very unhappy with the problems, but the fact is that you can and will find brand new "problem" guns from every manufacturer out there. Smith and Wesson makes the finest revolvers on the planet and they have been doing so for over 100 years. Just take a pill, call S&W, ask them for a FedEx shipping approval on their dime and tomorrow your gun will be picked up and arrive at S&W the very next day. They're make it right for you and get it back in fairly short order. If you give up on the gun, you'll be giving up on what may have been the finest revolver you'll ever own. Relax a bit and let them fix it for you!
These are amazing revolvers indeed.
These are amazing revolvers indeed.
Boss Spearman
New member
If you elect to not have it fixed, I'll be glad to take it off your hands!
I have never had a handgun not work after just buying it( knock on wood ). I get a funny feeling when I pull the trigger for the first time. I think its a big waste of time to box it up send it back to where ever, then try to contact them to ask about it and no one knows what your talking about. Then after months of waiting finally get it back and it does the same thing. I understand wanting to unload it a let it be someone elses problem. GOOD LUCK
Capt. Charlie
Moderator Emeritus
That is a real bummer to find problems right out of the box. I bought a 6" 586 (blued version) when Smith first came out with it, and it was darned near match quality right out of the box. I've put thousands of rounds through it shooting PPC and never had a problem. I agree with the others: Get that jewel fixed and keep it. You won't regret it.
Blue Heeler
Moderator
As has been suggested - check ejector rod and clean under the star - especially remove any oil. Also check visible screws for tightness.
Have a look at the gap between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. If that is where it is hanging up you dont have a problem with the hand.
If you managed to shoot OK for an hour it seems more than likely that a basic check and clean as suggested will fix the problem.
Have a look at the gap between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. If that is where it is hanging up you dont have a problem with the hand.
If you managed to shoot OK for an hour it seems more than likely that a basic check and clean as suggested will fix the problem.
Flieger Some people worry about road rage - it sounds like you have a bad case of range rage. Lighten up - its only a mechanical thingy
"the cylinder started to freeze up on me intermitintly. Shorty thereafter, the hand would not rotate the cylinder". Welcome to good tightly built revolvers. The MYTH that a revolver is more reliable than a auto is still around.
Just clean the thing and it will be ok for some more rounds. You do know how to clean it don't you??
If after you shoot /clean / shoot / clean you are still unhappy then send it to Smith or take it to a gunsmith and ask them to loosen it up for you.
I second the suggestions that Blue Heeler has for you.
"the cylinder started to freeze up on me intermitintly. Shorty thereafter, the hand would not rotate the cylinder". Welcome to good tightly built revolvers. The MYTH that a revolver is more reliable than a auto is still around.
Just clean the thing and it will be ok for some more rounds. You do know how to clean it don't you??
If after you shoot /clean / shoot / clean you are still unhappy then send it to Smith or take it to a gunsmith and ask them to loosen it up for you.
I second the suggestions that Blue Heeler has for you.
Not to be condescending or anything to you Fleiger, but you HAVE brushed the face of the cylinder and forcing cone thoroughly, along with the ratchet and hand, right? If I were in your position, that would be my first step.
Step two, after a thoroughly cleaning, is double check all screws, the ejector rod, clean under the extractor (maybe that should be part of step one?). Once cleaned and tightened, check the barrel/cylinder gap and make sure that infernal security lock is off and set there!
Next, try dry-firing it a few times without the snap caps. Don't worry, you won't hurt it any. Does the problem persist? If it goes away, I'd suspect your batch of ammo and snap caps being out of spec and binding up what may be a gun that is a little tight.
Lastly, if all of the above checks fail to find the problem, send it back to Smith and Wesson. I've had good experiences with them (needed some parts for a Walther) and have heard nothing but good reports on the way they treat their customers.
It is a man-made object, it can be set right. The above checks are free. Being a brand-new gun, the factory will warranty it and I believe S&W pays the shipping. Good luck and go to it!
BTW, it isn't just the new guns that can have problems. My LNIB 629-1 had the ejector rod come undone and tie it up within three dozen rounds on my first range trip. The guy shooting next to me and some of my shooting buddies told me to take it to the shop or send it to Smith and get it "looked at and fixed." The problem was just that one stupid screw, I could see it and KNEW that was the issue. A quick scrub, a little Lock-tite, 500 happy rounds since and counting. Don't give up, it can be made to work properly.
Step two, after a thoroughly cleaning, is double check all screws, the ejector rod, clean under the extractor (maybe that should be part of step one?). Once cleaned and tightened, check the barrel/cylinder gap and make sure that infernal security lock is off and set there!
Next, try dry-firing it a few times without the snap caps. Don't worry, you won't hurt it any. Does the problem persist? If it goes away, I'd suspect your batch of ammo and snap caps being out of spec and binding up what may be a gun that is a little tight.
Lastly, if all of the above checks fail to find the problem, send it back to Smith and Wesson. I've had good experiences with them (needed some parts for a Walther) and have heard nothing but good reports on the way they treat their customers.
It is a man-made object, it can be set right. The above checks are free. Being a brand-new gun, the factory will warranty it and I believe S&W pays the shipping. Good luck and go to it!
BTW, it isn't just the new guns that can have problems. My LNIB 629-1 had the ejector rod come undone and tie it up within three dozen rounds on my first range trip. The guy shooting next to me and some of my shooting buddies told me to take it to the shop or send it to Smith and get it "looked at and fixed." The problem was just that one stupid screw, I could see it and KNEW that was the issue. A quick scrub, a little Lock-tite, 500 happy rounds since and counting. Don't give up, it can be made to work properly.
Many years ago I bought a new S&W Model 66 for duty use, it had a timing problem and would lock up on me, I shipped it to an "Authorized" shop 3 times, they never did fix it, they charged me after their last failed attempt to fix it, I was pretty hot under the collar. I called S&W service and explained the problem, they advised me to send them the pistol and copies of the invoice where I was charged for warranty work, a couple of weeks later I got my pistol back, it was repaired this time, and a letter from S&W telling me they had contacted the warranty station that charged me and they would be refunding my money, everything worked out, S&W took really good care of me!
629 shooter
New member
As far as I'm concerned, S&W is now synonomous with CRAP. Ruger here I come. Fleiger
Well I have had junk from Ruger as well - they are not immune from producing CRAP. But I can understand your frustration.
I wanted a Smith 617 for some years and finally bought one in the late 1990s. Gun was defective - cylinder began to drag , gap not even all the way around and inaccurate as hell -went back to Smith , cylinder no longer had dragging problem but it still would not shoot worth a hoot. Traded the 617 and got a Ruger Singe Six and never looked back.
On ther other side of the coin bought a Ruger Super Redhawk - once again cylinder binding , bore was not uniform and poor accuracy. The dealer took this one back - now have a Smith 629 and could not be happier!
Have owned junk from both companies and great guns as well.
Flieger Some people worry about road rage - it sounds like you have a bad case of range rage. Lighten up - its only a mechanical thingy
When a guy pays $525 for a mechanical thinghy he sure as hell expects it to work - I would be just as livid. Hell , doesn't matter if it is a $140 Marlin - I still expect the damn gun to work properly.
Well I have had junk from Ruger as well - they are not immune from producing CRAP. But I can understand your frustration.
I wanted a Smith 617 for some years and finally bought one in the late 1990s. Gun was defective - cylinder began to drag , gap not even all the way around and inaccurate as hell -went back to Smith , cylinder no longer had dragging problem but it still would not shoot worth a hoot. Traded the 617 and got a Ruger Singe Six and never looked back.
On ther other side of the coin bought a Ruger Super Redhawk - once again cylinder binding , bore was not uniform and poor accuracy. The dealer took this one back - now have a Smith 629 and could not be happier!
Have owned junk from both companies and great guns as well.
Flieger Some people worry about road rage - it sounds like you have a bad case of range rage. Lighten up - its only a mechanical thingy
When a guy pays $525 for a mechanical thinghy he sure as hell expects it to work - I would be just as livid. Hell , doesn't matter if it is a $140 Marlin - I still expect the damn gun to work properly.
