Need to take die apart?

Glad you were able to get the die apart and cleaned. I've wrecked at least one Lee sizing die by trying to take it apart. The rough "collet" threads stripped the die body when I removed it. The poor design is such that the "collet" should probably not be removed, but instead only loosened enough to remove the decapping pin. At any rate, it has soured me to Lee dies.
 
The poor design is such that the "collet" should probably not be removed, but instead only loosened enough to remove the decapping pin. At any rate, it has soured me to Lee dies.
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I purchased two boxes of dies, case holders, hammer-in sizing dies etc. In the box were Lee dies, I decided I would be generous so I started removing the Lee dies. My plan was to give the Lee dies back to the dealer but he would have no part of it,

He insisted the Lee dies were free and he made it clear I did not pay for them; I did not want to haul the dies through the parking lot, I paid $20.00 for both boxes, included in the two boxes was a RCBS collet bullet puller with a 30 cal. collet.

When added to the Lee dies I already have I still have trouble making a set of dies out of the 100 or so dies bodies I have, it seems reloaders take them apart and forget where they put the pieces 'OR!' the dealer had a box of small parts he did not know he had.

And then there is rust, reloaders around Dulac, Louisiana claim Lee dies keep them up at night because of the noise, my brother claims it is Chevrolet pick ups that make all the noise when rusting.

F. Guffey
 
I've disassembled Lee sizing dies many, many times for cleaning and spindle "setting". Perhaps it's because I'm a lifelong machinist/mechanic that it's a very basic, simple process. Easiest is to use an open end wench that fits the die body and a socket, 1/2", to loosen the collet. I don't see how one could strip the threads, as it's pretty straight forward and both pieces are steel (remember; righty-tighty, lefty-loosy), but I guess there are those reloaders that are "mechanically challenged"...
 
Oh they are TIGHT. There is a collet that holds the unbreakable firing pin that must be loosend to dissemble the die.
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It is assumed the firing pin assemble is unbreakable, if the assemble slides up when decapping the reloader should determine what the problem is, I have heard many reloaders brag about the wonders of the Lee die, they claim it will decap a Berdan primer.

F. Guffey
 
The Lee lube is the same as "cable puling lubricant". I worked for a large city power/utility company and the utility trucks were equipped with 5 gallon buckets of the lube. I compared it to the Lee stuff and found them to be the same, and they both worked. I had no trouble with rust, mainly because I take care of my tools, and used the Lee lube until I discovered Mink Oil Boot Dressing Cream...
 
I have many dies from several MFGs... steel and carbide... I clean all of them periodically

not sure why all the hate for Lee stuff...

IMO many of my Lee Sets are the absolute best value for the $$..

but I do not have the 30 year now---- loading experience to discount any of the higher cost options....I am a frugal guy and have had good service from every thing RCBS and Lee

Got a good friend who is OCD and ONLY buys so called top of the line...we both reload a lot of same caliber.... my total equipment costs are under a grand and his is 3 times that cost

My cost per accurate cartridge is significantly lower than his using same or similar components

Neither of us can assemble good loads at 200 rds per hour despite the machines being able to do much faster

I know there are folks who swear buy so and so brand as able to produce to absolute most repeatable accurate ammo with little or no maintenance for 10,000 + rounds

I have a Lee 45 Colt Carbide set for $48 that is 13 years old and to this day produces exactly every round the WAY I set it up to create....no variance ever...gets cleaned, lubed, and put away after every loading session with zero drama

I actually am a high end snob on a LOT of products.....and will freely acknowledge that 99% of the time you DO get what you pay for...especially when it comes to powder measuring scales

So glad my Dad suggest to NOT point my nose in the air regarding Lee presses and die sets

I do reloading almost exclusively for cost avoidance (I shoot a lot of ammo) and semi pro playing with accuracy per firearm... but find the finding of absolute most precision ammo is very costly and tedious so I shoot for accurate (enough) with in my rifles- hand guns- and personal capability

Pro precision shooters probably are well served to try the best of the best.... in every thing

Typical re loaders trying to avoid costs or load rare calibers can be very well served with the lower end offerings in my opinion

Bottom line....properly adjusted ,and properly maintained I a a big fan of the various Lee die sets

FWIIW I live in a highly variable Humidity area of USA but my reload room is fully climate controlled.... suffice rust from atmospherics is not a concern

Like note above... these are tools, and I treat them as such...clean and lube when done using....just like all my expensive wood working tools.... either powered or hand tools...Hell I have severl hand me down rip and cross cut saws that look like they just came from Sears in 1952 when my dad bought them....he taught me to respect the tool

In fact my $78 Sears Ted Wiliams Model 100 ( Win 94) 30-30 does not look a day over NEW despite decades of killing deer... OK... there is the random stock ding but barrel and action look still as new...Never ever put away dirty or wet..... HINT
 
I had same issues with really small hands and arthritis. Two right sized wrenches with the die in the press worked for me. I clean mine after every 100 rounds or so. Have since switched to Rcbs and Redding. Not as hard to do.
 
I never clean my dies. I tumble before sizing. I use Redding Imperial wax. I have never had a need to clean. It would be safe to say my 6PPC dies have 10k plus rounds through them without being cleaned.
 
mikld said:
I've disassembled Lee sizing dies many, many times for cleaning and spindle "setting". Perhaps it's because I'm a lifelong machinist/mechanic that it's a very basic, simple process. Easiest is to use an open end wench that fits the die body and a socket, 1/2", to loosen the collet. I don't see how one could strip the threads, as it's pretty straight forward and both pieces are steel (remember; righty-tighty, lefty-loosy), but I guess there are those reloaders that are "mechanically challenged"...
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Not all Lee sizing dies have the rough thread problems I ran into, but some do. Most of my Lee sizing dies have threads that were cut well enough to allow removal of the de-priming “collet” on the sizing die. But a couple I have were so poorly made that the threads stripped upon the first disassembly.

Next time you have one of your Lee sizing dies apart, take a look at the “collet” used to secure the de-priming rod. If it's like mine, the hollow “collet” bolt has no angled bearing surface on the end like a true collet. And the die body also lacks the angled shoulder normally used with a mating collet.

The Lee design uses tapered threads on the “collet” bolt as well as the die body, along with the slit in the “collet” to clamp the decapping rod when you tighten it. Perhaps a plumber tired of working under sinks and now designs dies instead. Maybe if Lee had also used teflon tape on the threads of my die, the threads wouldn't have stripped upon disassembly.
 
No pun intended but I use correct sized wrench on the die and a 10 inch crescent on the top. They have to be a lot tighter than my other dies or it will push stem out when resizing.
 
That smooth stem drives the need for it to be tightened so firmly. Hornady used the smooth stem with a real collet on their New Dimension and earlier Custom Grade dies. They also had to be really tight to hold. Now they have the “zip spindle” that is more easily adjusted to the desired amount of tension.

Most other die makers simply use a threaded spindle. That works just fine but it won't slip at all, and is more likely to break de-capping pins.
 
The very first hornaday dies had the expander bonded to the shaft. Not threaded, bonded or glued. I know because I pulled a few off. The replacements were threaded.
 
jamaica
Is there better, best, yes sir sure is

What do you need the tools for....makes a difference
Brand loyalty...can and usually is a bias...good or bad

For MY dollars and from my dad's experience with Lee to make reliable and functioning low cost ammo... Lee is adequate to get the job done with little to no drama

If I chased EVERY best of the Best tool out there I would be dead broke and shooting a lot less

From a well trained machine shop leader, teacher, and user I have acquired a lot of the top of the line calipers and gauges.... funny how my Harbor Freight $30 calipers (Vs
$150~$380 Mitutoyo or Starrett) are adequate enough for the tolerances we need and the dropping or loss is no big deal

I have zero angst against anyone who prefers the best of the best...or has a brand they are decidedly loyal to...

Hell I love RCBS simply because they took a rusty 40 year old rock crusher press from me that was found in and attic and rebuilt it to NEW no questions or costs beside shipping

But to categorically state--- one should stay away from anything Lee is just plain mean spirited...IMO

That said I claim MY reloading is for cost avoidance...I shoot a lot and absolute accuracy ...while good, accurate is a goal...not the ultimate driver

so I resent the IMPLICATION that my use of Lee equipment is a mistake

Yes move on---- this is just an old man rant...my bucks, my research, my experience...I am convinced I did good with my tooling and I learned how to make it work of ME
 
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