Need help from Smith and Wesson experts

G

grizz223

New member
Hi
I am looking at a Smith model 27-2 with an 8 inch barrell. I have heard from Smith guys this is the best of the best so the guy wants 450.00 this seem like an awesome deal. But I would have to drive like 100 miles to get it. I have only seen pics that are not very good. Would my Smith experts take a chance on this?
 

Attachments

  • 6653397.jpg
    6653397.jpg
    33.2 KB · Views: 120
I don't really consider myself an expert, but

Yes, thats a very good price. The 8 3/8 barrels are somewhat uncommon in the model 27. I think this to be because many people intended to carry them, or wanted the possibility of carry. The 8 3/8 barrel allows for easier shooting at long ranges, but many people wanting to shoot long range would buy a 44 magnum instead. Anyways, I sold one just like that for that money a year or so ago, but it had pitting on the barrel. The presentation case is worth around $100 by itself as long as its nice inside. Its easily a $600 package unless the gun has more condition issues than in the photo. I see some holster wear, but I would certainly buy it for that money. As far as the drive, perhaps have him take more photos so that you are sure. If you each drive half way, its 50 miles, which is probably about 45 min drive, depending. Even if you drive 50 mph, its only 1hr. I actually drove longer than that to get the one I had.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Winchester_73
I think I will try to get this Friday if he still has it for sale. I'm at work today. Crap I just had another Deputy offer me a Sig P226 for 400.00. Now I don't know what to do.:eek:
 
"I have heard from Smith guys this is the best of the best so the guy wants 450.00 this seem like an awesome deal."

That's an excellent to exceptional price, depending on condition.

There are going to be those who tell you that it's a horrible price, that it shouldn't be more than 17 cents, a stick of chewed gum, and a bottle cap.

Drive the 100 miles.
 
Look for abuse when you examine the gun. Bulged chamber, sprung crane, excessive end-shake, etc. Other than that, sounds/looks like a good gamble.
 
dahermit
Thanks for the advice. I have a bunch of Colt revolvers so i'm familar with what to look for on revolvers but I thank you for your help and taking the time to respond to my question. I do have 3 Smiths so I am mostly familar with Smiths is there any big difference in how to look over a Smith versus a Colt other than Colts how cylinders rotate ?
 
Look for abuse when you examine the gun. Bulged chamber, sprung crane, excessive end-shake, etc. Other than that, sounds/looks like a good gamble.
Click to expand...

Beyond that, check the timing / lockup with hammer down and hammer cocked. Being that its a 357, it also would not hurt to check for forcing cone erosion and top strap cutting. The easy thing to do is check it over using the revolver checkout by Jim March.

I'm glad one of our resident experts, Mike Irwin chimed in - and would you look at that, he agreed with me, so I must have been right. I like to get the confirmation from certain folks.
 
One final consideration - if you decided to sell this gun, it is a case of you needing to find the right guy. When you look around at most magnum revolvers, esp DA guns such as S&W or Colt, the 8in guns sell the slowest. However, 8in S&W target 38s 22lrs and 22 mags are good. People love short barrel stuff in a magnum, like 2.5 Pythons or 3.5 model 27s, 4in 41 mag or 44 mag, etc. and they like the 5in guns. 4in guns are a good length for carry, and most people don't need more than 6in or 6.5in for target shooting or even hunting. The 8 3/8 barrel is great to some people, but its not popular. You get a velocity advantage from it, esp compared to say a 3.5 in barrel, but for many applications, that advantage is meaningless, and then of course, it can have meaning, depending on the goals in mind.
 
Winchester_73
On the forcing cone is it common for the big N frames to have problems with the forcing cone I thought that was mostly a K frame thing? I mean if it's had a bunch of super high end .357 pushed thru it then of course it could be bad but on a whole shouldn't it hold up better? Sorry for all the questions but like I said i'm a Colt guy thru and thru so i'm trying to learn more about Smith's. Thanks to everyone who took the time to teach me about Smith's.
 
Last edited:
I would be burning up the highway.

If worse comes to worse, at that price you could send it back to S&W for a work over.
 
The K frame 357 magnums cracked at the 6pm (bottom) spot on the forcing cone. This was found to be caused by hot 125gr loads WITH a lack of maintenance. It also for the record happened more often on model 19s than 66s. This could be because the 66 is a little softer being a SS alloy rather than a carbon steel of the 19. In addition, SS guns in general are less susceptible to many issues, but on the other hand, they are not indestructible and do require good basic care.

The model 27 is a N frame, so the forcing cone is thicker and more durable than the K frame cones, BUT the erosion I mention can be found on most any magnum, 357 or better. Its caused by the heat and abrasiveness of the powder after the round is fired. Certain powders have been said to be a cause of it, but certainly some loads are much more likely than others to erode. However, its not necessarily from hot loads in general. It takes a bunch of factors for it to happen. One thought is that its caused by unburned granules that hit the cone kind of like how sand constantly hitting something can wear it away.

Here is a photo of the phenomenon. Note how the inner edge of the cone has eroded away, as if its chamfered. However, the cone should of course look like the bottom photo.

Forcing cone erosion

forcingcone.jpg


A normal "healthy" forcing cone

cone6.jpg
 
Winchester_73
Thanks for the quick reply unfortunately I can't view the external links because of the way they have the laptops in the cruisers set up so I will look at it when I get home today. But again thanks for your reply and all of your help..


kraigwy
I agree with you about the sick days but we are really short right now so there's no way it's going to happen.:(
 
"I'm glad one of our resident experts, Mike Irwin chimed in - and would you look at that, he agreed with me, so I must have been right."

Arbitrary confluence between Saturn and Mercury.

Don't worry, it will go away soon.

One of the things I ALWAYS look for is the condition of the sideplate screws and the condition of the seam between the sideplate and the frame.

If the sideplate screws are buggered in any significant way, or the seam is really proud and all marred, I proceed with caution. That's a very good indication that someone who doesn't know what they've been doing has accessed the internals.

And that's when you can find all sorts of funny business like missing parts or home gunsmithing courtesy of your friendly Dremel tool...
 
Grizz- maybe you can get a prisoner transfer today to the location of the gun. If that gun is at all in reasonable condition it is a bargain at $450. :cool:
 
glenncal1
If it were my day off I could do transport for the jail as i'm duel certified Corrections/Law enforcement. Believe it or not LE doesn't transport except to the jail. That would be my brothers in the jail's job.:D
 
Last edited:
I kind of chuckle when people on the right edge of the country talk about driving long distances. We've got places in Phoenix where you can drive for 85 miles and still be within the city limits. I would think nothing of driving 100 miles just to take a drive in the desert and view our beautiful country. And to do it to look at a great bargain on a revolver would make it even better. Find the BBQ places in the destination city before departure and I'm good to go..:D


As for the gun, unless the forcing cone were cracked or some other really serious trauma, I say it's worth it if you like long bbls. If it went to my smith after I bought it, it would cost me 150 dollars. That would bring it up to better than new shape and it would still only cost 600 total.


Sgt Lumpy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top