need advice on ammo

Many thanks for the expert & detailed types of reloading equipment
Needed. Now with that damn corona virous
& it looks like it will be around for many months, I’m got to pull the trigger and get a basic/mid Level system .
I AM ON A QUEST
Regards,
Doc
 
Many thanks for the expert & detailed types of reloading equipment
Needed. Now with that damn corona virous
& it looks like it will be around for many months, I’m got to pull the trigger and get a basic/mid Level system .
I AM ON A QUEST
Regards,
Doc
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If there is one redeeming quality to the Corona stuff if you are forced to be away from work it gives you time to study and read up on reloading stuff and maybe even get a basic starter kit. And thats the only good thing I can say about Corona.:mad:
 
Factory 32 S&W long will be dirty due to a number of reasons......low pressure being #1...especially in a long throat gun like 327. You've got little to no back pressure until the bullet hits the throat of the cylinder and makes the jump into the forcing cone. Combine that with the wax lube on the lead bulllet and you have GUNK.
 
A little experience to share

What I found is you really don't want to step down more than one size for accuracy. So a 32 S&W short will shoot OK out of 32 long chambers but not out of 32 mag or 327 chambers. I would not shoot anything shorter than 32 magnum out of your 327 Federal. See if you can get some custom ammo loaded with 100 grain or 115 grain lead bullets for practice or the Hornady 100 grain XTP. Contact these guys to see if they can quote you for 1000 rounds or more.

http://www.georgia-arms.com/
 
When it is raining or Windy Or Very Cold I reload . It gives me time with my Firearms . Over 50 years reloading and still as much fun .
Reloading is the second half of the sport and just as much fun .
 
The round is a low pressure round so most ammo is going to fire dirty. Some are worse than others. I have a box of Aquila that I shot some out of my old I frame. A few squirts of M-Pro-7, and a few patches the gun was clean. I am still on the fence if I am going to reload for the gun as it has some minor issues. I picked it up due to the fact that I found it to be kinda neat. (Was cheap too.)

If you reload I would advise trying Trail Boss powder. Just do not use it with full wadcutters. (Seems to cause squibs badly with them.) I use it for .44 Special, and .38 Special and it is super duper clean burning.
 
If you do reload, starline 32 mag brass and universal clays with 100 grain XTP at 1100 to 1200fps will be nice plinking loads for your 327.
 
[QUOTE think his complaints had more to do with the smoke from the bullet lube and length of the case has no effect on the amount of smoke produced. It would in having to clean the crude ring from the chamber. ][/QUOTE]

Maybe,maybe not.

Truthtellers,I followed your thread about using plated 32 ACP bullets . You made something work for yourself. Congratulations! Enjoy!

Revolvers have a unique situation The cylinder bore is freebore,then there is the cylinder gap ,then the forcing cone. All of these work against achieving the heat/pressure for good powder ignition.The primer can blow the bullet to the rifling on its own,while the powder just fizzles.(exaggerated to make the point) Incomplete powder burning IS filthy. Some cheap ammo uses filthy powder.

A 32 Auto does not have a cylinder.A bullet designd for autoloaders is not designed for revolvers. A revolver bullet needs a good groove for a strong roll crimp.The crimp provides resistance which gets the pressure and heat up for good ignition.

A good crimp is key to good revolver reload performance.

Truthtellers,you chose a bullet that is a misapplication. It gave you problems. You made it work. Good for you! That does not make it a good path to recommend to a beginning reloader.

As some have said,shooting 32 S+W long in a 327 Mg works,but its a compromise.You will get better performance in ways other than increased velocity by using 327 brass.It fts your cylinder.

IMO, a good investment would be a lot of Starline brass,327 Mag. if you are going to reload. Revolver brass has a very long life,more than 10 reloadings,in my experience. The unform,proper brass solves many potential problems.

You already have a bunch of 32 S+W long brass. Its a useful investment,but I'd wear them out reloading them rather than buying factory ammo.
Try 1 box of Fiocchi wadcutters. Its a square ended bullet fully enclosed in the cartridge case. If you like those,a Double ended wadcutter bullet might be a good choice.

Bullet diameter is critical to good performance.I don't know what is correct for yur 327. Undersize bullets perform poorly.They lead. Oversize bullets won't easily fit in your chamber. That's a whole 'nuther topic.

I'd agree a Lee hand press outfit is a minimal investment that will load ammo just fine.
 
Doc - I went through the same journey for lower power target ammo for my Ruger .327FM pistol. After being dissatisfied with the noise and inaccuracy of 32-long ammo, I bought some .32 Wadcutters from Missouri Bullet company and loaded them into .327FM brass with a mild charge of Bullseye powder. I have found this to be far superior to the 32-long ammo.
 
HiBC said:
Maybe,maybe not.

Truthtellers,I followed your thread about using plated 32 ACP bullets . You made something work for yourself. Congratulations! Enjoy!

Revolvers have a unique situation The cylinder bore is freebore,then there is the cylinder gap ,then the forcing cone. All of these work against achieving the heat/pressure for good powder ignition.The primer can blow the bullet to the rifling on its own,while the powder just fizzles.(exaggerated to make the point) Incomplete powder burning IS filthy. Some cheap ammo uses filthy powder.

A 32 Auto does not have a cylinder.A bullet designd for autoloaders is not designed for revolvers. A revolver bullet needs a good groove for a strong roll crimp.The crimp provides resistance which gets the pressure and heat up for good ignition.

A good crimp is key to good revolver reload performance.

Truthtellers,you chose a bullet that is a misapplication. It gave you problems. You made it work. Good for you! That does not make it a good path to recommend to a beginning reloader.

As some have said,shooting 32 S+W long in a 327 Mg works,but its a compromise.You will get better performance in ways other than increased velocity by using 327 brass.It fts your cylinder.

IMO, a good investment would be a lot of Starline brass,327 Mag. if you are going to reload. Revolver brass has a very long life,more than 10 reloadings,in my experience. The unform,proper brass solves many potential problems.

You already have a bunch of 32 S+W long brass. Its a useful investment,but I'd wear them out reloading them rather than buying factory ammo.
Try 1 box of Fiocchi wadcutters. Its a square ended bullet fully enclosed in the cartridge case. If you like those,a Double ended wadcutter bullet might be a good choice.

Bullet diameter is critical to good performance.I don't know what is correct for yur 327. Undersize bullets perform poorly.They lead. Oversize bullets won't easily fit in your chamber. That's a whole 'nuther topic.

I'd agree a Lee hand press outfit is a minimal investment that will load ammo just fine.
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Thanks, I put a lot of thought into that project and it's paying off quite well, but my goal is to spread the word on that load because it uses the cheapest plated/jacketed bullet available and works to good effect and is a very easy, safe round to reload thanks to the Trail Boss powder.

Also, since it is a single stage only affair, I think it's a good beginning reloading project for the OP.

What I would NOT recommend a beginning reloader doing is using a full wadcutter bullet seated flush with the case mouth. That's a recipe for squibs or overpressure situations and is something that I personally don't reload.

A bullet being designed for autos and not revolvers hasn't stopped people over the decades from using them in revolvers. The 200 grain .45 SWC has found been a very popular bullet for reloaders in .45 Schofield and Colt, yet it was designed primarily for .45 ACP.

Same thing can be said for all the 9mm revolvers out there now that are using taper crimped ammo meant for autos. The fact is that taper crimped revolver cases can work and work very well so long as the crimp is tight enough and I do recommend a heavy taper crimp for all revolver applications when using a bullet that lacks a crimp groove.

All that said, I do agree that using the longest possible case is always a good idea considering that it reduces the cleaning necessary in the chamber. I have a few hundred cases of .32 S&W Long, but I reserve that only for use in guns chambered for .32 SW Long and the Henry rifle for the purposes of extreme low velocity. For my .327's, I use .327 or .32 H&R.
 
What I would NOT recommend a beginning reloader doing is using a full wadcutter bullet seated flush with the case mouth. That's a recipe for squibs or overpressure situations and is something that I personally don't reload.
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I've never heard of that in my 50 yrs of reloading. I'd appreciate it if you would enlighten me as to how that happens. I like to understand how things work.

Note I did say "Double ended wadcutter" The hollow base,skirted wadcutters have limitations.

I don't doubt squibs and overpressure loads happen with 38spl wadcutters,but I think more often its about an inattentive,bored operator making large quantities of ammo using very small charges of Bullseye or similar powder.. Absent charge,short charge,or double charge.

That I understand. It has nothing to do with wadcutters.

I also understand how substituting a flush seated wadcutter into a load designed for a SWC or roundnose would drastically reduce combustion chamber volume and increase pressure. Valid consideration,but the problem is not the flush seated wadcutter. its the loader substituting components.

That's a sloppy and potentially dangerous practice that causes problems.
 
What I would NOT recommend a beginning reloader doing is using a full wadcutter bullet seated flush with the case mouth. That's a recipe for squibs or overpressure situations and is something that I personally don't reload.
Click to expand...

The very first loads I ever loaded for my brand new 6" barreled model 19 were 38 HB wadcutters pushed by 3grs of Bullseye powder dropped by my new Little Dandy powder dispenser. I was careful to make sure each case had a single, not double charge. They worked just as they should have and as far as I knew at the time were accurate. I wasn't a very good shot yet. I was learning still. Heck I'm still learning 40 years later.:)

Now I like to load the Lee TL 148gr WC bullets I cast and load them with 4grs of Bullseye powder. Those are great 38 snub loads if you want to get away from target loads in your gun.
 
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