Need advice on 1951 colt navy

Hawg Haggen said:
Wonder why they filed the rear sight off?
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It looks more like it was broken off in one of the pictures.

ecfc4cac.jpg
 
Did you ask your mother if she knew anything about the history of the gun? It may have some family significance that is worth more than anything you can get out of it.
 
It's not rare and the cylinder is in tough shape. I would remove as much rust as possible to keep it from deteriorating further. That's not a popular thing to do with antiques but...that's my opinion. Or you could leave it as it is and just enjoy it's history, which, if you knew, would make it worth keeping in its current condition. Does your mother know its history?
Other than the cylinder, it doesn't look too bad (needs a new hammer to make it a shooter). I wonder what the internals look like...
I've seen originals with 2nd generation cylinders that fit well. That might be an option if you wanted to shoot it.
So...sell it on gunbroker as is
Clean it up and make it a shooter
Keep it as it is for what it is (researching it can be alot of fun)
Me? I would clean it up and make it a shooter.

For what it's worth...I bought a Mosin Nagant for $99 at Cabellas. I got 440 rounds shipped to my house for about the same. I paid $450 for an original 1851 Navy .36 a few years ago that's in really good shape.
 
Those chambers look loaded. :eek:
Do not attempt to clean up too much. Just oil well and wait until you can find an expert to look at it. If truly old, and I think it may be (your photos are the pits), you have some value there. Nice find.
I don't believe replacement nipples will hurt the collectors value.
 
Some observations:
The hammer appears to be severely damaged, with the "sight" section broken off & the dimple in its face. Agree it's not shootable.

DO NOT USE AGGRESSIVE METHODS TO REMOVE RUST! Just oil it lightly for the moment. Do nothing to remove the patina. Value is reduced already, don't make it worse. Do not polish anything, do not scrub it with anything, do not use sandpaper or Brillo pads or anything similar.

Even as is, it's worth more than a Mosin.

And, I really hope you have your mother's permission to be disposing of her property.
Denis
 
How is it a late model if they were made til 1873? 1956 is only 5 years after the first one...i know the fourth model had "address sam l colt new york city america" whereas mine doesnt have the america, just new york...
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Navies are classified as early, middle, and late 3rd models, and early, middle and late 4th models depending on characteristics. approx dates are:

Early 3rd - 1851-1853
Middle 3rd - 1853-1854
Late 3rd - 1854-1857
Early 4th - 1858-1862
Middle 4th - 1862-1863
Late 4th - 1863-1873
 
I agree with some of what Rifleman said

I am no expert on historical originals and their values but I agree that adding new nipples might not hurt the value.

On the other hand I doubt the thirty or forty bucks you would invest would increase the value enough to make it worth while.

If you have to mess with the cylinder to get the new nipples to turn into the holes the story might be different.

Is it correct to think that originals have a value that declines if you mess with them?

I do like your photos a little more than the Rifleman did.
 
The problem is finding an "expert." A local "expert" sold me an original Whitney as a "pre-Italian repro", whatever that means.
You could contact James Julia in Maine - send them some pics and they'll give you a free, basic appraisal. I did once. I might be going to their pre-auction viewing this weekend.
http://jamesdjulia.com/
 
Among the photos he posted on another site, I can.
It's camera, lighting & angle that makes it look like the chambers are loaded here. :)
Denis
 
Thanks for all the help guys. What should I use to remove the rust in the cylinders? I dont want to ruin this gun! But I want to get it looking as good as possible without devaluing the originality of it.
 
I would use a brass bore brush on a cordless drill in the "chambers" (the holes in the cylinder) and be methodical using a penetrating oil. It won't hurt the value if you don't try to remove any exterior coloring.........

I am still interested in the pistol but your terms of me making offers in public forums precludes me from going any further. I am not going to "play" the bidding war thing.

Regards, HH
 
As mentioned on the CF, a non-aggressive solvent like Break Free shouldn't damage the patina.
If you can find somebody competent enough to break it down completely, soaking in kerosene is a traditional rust remover.

May be necessary to use a penetrating oil to get the screws out, do not try it yourself.
I'd personally be reluctant to take a power tool to the chambers.

You indicated on the other site your Mother's OK with all this?
Denis
 
Yea i would love to verify the seriAl number on the grips but I would afraid to strip one of the screws out...and YES my mother is all good with it as she gave me permission to take it out of the safety deposit box and do with as I see fit...

And if you would like to make me an offer privately by email my address is wildcamaro@yahoo.com...Although I'm pretty reluctant to sell..

So should I use the break free on the whole gun or just barrell bore and cylinder chambers?
 
Break Free anywhere you can get it into or on the gun.

I'd still suggest a pro breakdown to get at the internal nooks & crannies, but for now pickling as much as you yourself can is advisable.
Denis
 
Cool...I'm going to take it to a local gun shop "Nesbit's" in western PA tommorrow so I can have him tell me what he thinks and hopefully they sell Breakfree there...

Also after doing more research I now can see the faint cylinder scene on the gun which I posted on my photobucket account although it is hard to see on photo...
 
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