My Snub barrel S&W 1917 revolver project.

"I don't shoot plus p's in any of my old 1917's and with the relatively low pressure and velocities of the .45 acp, I think I'll be okay."

There have been concerns with the standard hardball load in the M1917 S&W for decades, almost from the time of inception for the gun.

Most resources recommending not shooting hardball .45 ACP through them because of the increased pressure and wear. A number of sources have theorized over the years that the very generous chamber throats on the M1917 were one way of reducing chamber pressures.

Most loading manuals show .45 Auto Rim loading information at reduced velocities with lead bullets.

I woudn't be worried about the barrel blowing out catastrophically, but I would be concerned with it possibly bulging if you've compromised the "native" hardening that was worked in when the barrel was made.
 
Bill,

Nice set of shoot'en irons but...

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I just use one at a time!

Deaf
 
Darn it Bill !! after reading this thread you've got me wanting one now!! lol

My LGS has a S&W Model 1917 for $650.00 that I guess I'll go back to check out on Mon.
( nice work by the way on that pistol)
 
I was just reading a 'Snub S&W 1917' thread on the S&W Forums, and the thought occurred to me that if I just had to chop one of these gems, I'd rather buy one of the new-build 'collectors' guns for the job, rather than do it to one of the originals.
 
Shep, those S&W "classics" models that replicate the earlier S&W's, are $800.00 plus revolvers. They aren't currently in production anymore also from what I heard, and they all have that ugly, obvious, hammer lock located just above the cylinder release. Plus there are some differences in the frame and grip and the most obvious thing I noticed right away when I looked at them, is that the ejector on the modern 1917 "classic" does not have that big end on it like the original S&W 1917's have. Instead it looks just like a current S&W ejector rod. Also the front sight on the modern "classics" 1917 is pinned to a base rather than integral with the barrel as they were on the originals. So although they resemble the original 1917's some, there are some differences between them that I don't like on the modern ones.

Unless the barrel is shot out or very badly rust pitted on its outside, I wouldn't chop the barrel of either a modern "classics" 1917, nor an original. I didn't chop off the barrel on mine. It was that way when I bought it and was missing the front sight also. A fellow member of the S&W forum sent me an old very shot out 1917 snubby barrel that had the original half moon front sight cut off from the end of the barrel that was chopped, and then silver soldered on to the end of the shortened shot out barrel, and I torch melted the silver solder and got the front sight off that shot out barrel, then filed a flat on top of my barrel for the front sight to be welded on.

From time to time at Gunbroker and other auctions, I see 1917 S&W and 1917 Colts with chopped snubby barrels for sale. If I were you Shep, I'd get one of those rather than to chop a good barrel of an original or one of those "classics" that also has a good barrel.

If however you can't find one that's a snubby already, and you are dead set on chopping a barrel to make one, I'd suggest getting a bit of a beat up with some rust original U.S. one that maybe even has a bent ejector rod (like mine was) or some other operational problem that makes it sell cheap, (You can get parts at Numrich or Sarco and fix it) or even one of the Brazilian beat up rusty ones. Those beat up with some rust ones can be had at auction or pawn shops for between $350.00 to $500.00 if you shop a bit.

That's a lot cheaper than one of the newer "classics", and if you chopped a rusty beat up original, and removed the rust, fixed anything that was broken and refinished it, you would actually be restoring the gun somewhat (only as a snubby) and adding shooter resale value to the gun that would have otherwise just been an old rusty beater with operational problems that didn't have that much antique value in the beat up non operational rusty condition it was in anyway. That way you wouldn't be destroying its antique value because it didn't really have much antique value in that condition.

But if you did that to one of those recently discontinued "classics" with their shiny almost perfect condition, that would be a shame not only because they cost twice or more as much as you can get a beat up/rusty/operational problem original for, but also because most of the modern "classics" I've seen are usually sold in like new or even unfired condition not being that old. Just my advice for what it's worth.



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I agree with Bill Akins, except for his prices. I'd love to know where he finds those new guns for $800 or 1917s for $350-$500. Those prices are $100-$300 lower than the best prices I've been able to find for the past year...I've been looking for one as a project for at least that long.

Dave
 
Good work on bringing a 1917 back to shooting condition

Beauty is in the beholder but if you think about actual concealled firepower a dual rigged shoulder holster set up for two 1911's would give you 16 rounds cocked and locked and in a slimmer profile. Throw in a couple of SR45's and you have 20 rounds available vs 12.
 
Dave T wrote:
I agree with Bill Akins, except for his prices. I'd love to know where he finds those new guns for $800 or 1917s for $350-$500. Those prices are $100-$300 lower than the best prices I've been able to find for the past year...I've been looking for one as a project for at least that long.
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Dave, keep reminding me so I'll remember to keep a lookout for you for one, in my auction searches. But in the meantime, here's how I find those.

At any given time I probably have between 20 to 30 items I am watching on Gunbroker. I also regularly do a search on Gunbroker to update my "watch" lists. Same with "GunsAmerica" or any other high profile online firearms auction site.

I got this nice commercial model S&W 1917 off gunbroker for about $500.00
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And also this nickel and gold plated one off Gunbroker for $500.00
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But I don't just rely on the high profile online auctions. I also use Proxibid.com which is a site that has hundreds of auctions of all kinds going on from VARIOUS auction houses. Unlike Gunbroker/GunsAmerica, the many separate auction houses that use Proxibid are real time online auctions, where you can view pictures of the item and bid on them online at the same time as the auction is going on live at its live location. I've gotten quite a few great deals at Proxibid.

Proxibid carries auction houses auctions of all kinds. Homes, land, tractors, cars, guns, anything and everything, not just gun related like Gunbroker.

You join for free just like gunbroker and register your credit card just like Gunbroker. Then you do a search on Proxibid for whatever you are looking for, and for me that's usually guns, and if there are any separate auction houses that have registered with Proxibid for their upcoming auctions, whatever inventory they will be auctioning, will show up in your Proxibid search.

But you have to be careful in learning the ropes. Because each separate auction house has its own percentage they charge. It can be anywhere from 10 to 20 Percent over the hammer fall cost of your gun. Then most of the time shipping is not included. And some auction houses try to gouge you on the shipping. I had one try to charge me $50.00 for a revolver that could have been sent in a $5.00 "If it fits it ships" box. I appealed that and they changed it to $25.00 shipping. So be sure to read the "details" that each separate auction house has at Proxibid.

I also let my friends and family know I like old double action Smith and Wessons and by my doing that, my cousin sold me this below nice brushed nickel 1917 for $350.00 (not the same one as my above gold and nickel one).
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I set myself a limit of $500.00 and generally won't pay more than that for a S&W 1917. So anywhere from $350.00 for a fantastic deal, to $500.00 for a good deal. I won't buy unless it's a good deal.

Then sometimes I also physically attend live auctions too.

That's how I do it Dave. Hope these tips might aid you too.




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At any given time I probably have between 20 to 30 items I am watching on Gunbroker. I also regularly do a search on Gunbroker to update my "watch" lists. Same with "GunsAmerica" or any other high profile online firearms auction site.
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Thanks for the tips Bill. I mostly do what you said in the above paragraph. Guess I don't pay close enough attention to catch every good deal. Getting old does that to you (poor memory and the attention span thing - LOL). Then too, when I do buy something the discretionary funds are exhausted for a while. That's generally when I find the real bargains...when I can afford to even pay attention. (smile)

Dave
 
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