My Quest for Better Marksmanship

edward hogan said:
Got a decent trigger? Crisp let-off and smooth? That will make a big difference.

The Schmidt Rubin has an amazing trigger! I have not fired it yet, but I really look forward to it.

The .223 is also pretty good. The .270 is by far the worst, but I hear there is a lot you can do to the 700's to make them work really well. I will probably worry about getting my scope mounted better first.
 
crane550 said:
I know many very experienced shooters that still flinch, and the best shots that I personally know have all told me it took years to kick, and they still have to be careful about it.

And this speaks to the importance of not adopting a flinch in the first place, and the importance of minimizing even the risk that you'll adopt one. Ideally, you'd get instruction and lots of range time in with a .22, but if you're going to reload for your .270 instead, I'd strongly urge you to start with low-power loads. There's a lot written on that topic. Better yet, get a set of .223 dies. Or buy a .22.


crane550 said:
I think most of it just has to do with knowing exactly when the gun will go off, and not tensing up before due to it...I'm certainly not gun shy, there isn't anything out there I would refuse to shoot (well, there might be exceptions) but for the most part I'm perfectly comfortable firing a gun. It's just a human tendency to tighten up as you pull the trigger and it simply takes practice.

Some flinch is anticipation of recoil and muzzle blast. But the most insidious flinch comes from simply wanting to make a good shot. IOW, making the gun do something by seeing a good sight picture and yanking that trigger...now!! So, no matter how comfy you are shooting a rifle, this can still bite you. It can be subtle (or not), so be aware of it.

Keep this in mind: The target doesn't matter. It's merely a recording device that records how well you executed the fundamentals and/or how badly you flinched. Execute the fundamentals well, and the target will take care of itself. Remember this for every shot.

Good luck!
 
Flinch

But the most insidious flinch comes from simply wanting to make a good shot.

A marvelous observation.......the difference between a careful let off of a shot and a Jerk can be amazingly (or insidiously) subtle. Close attention to what is going on at that final moment is paramount.
 
Long Range Positions to Shoot Small Groups

After reading this thread a few times, I want to comment about some misconceptions about shooting small groups at 1000 yards.

Shooting Positions

The most accurate rifle, sight and ammo combination will not shoot too accurate when handheld against one's shoulder as it rests atop something on a bench top the shooter's sitting next to. This is the least repeatable position. Many people need a yardstick or two to measure group sizes. The more recoil the rifle has, the harder it is to fire each shot repeatable. While one may have an aiming area 1/4 MOA on the target, the non-repeatable positions adds 1 to 2 MOA to the groups the stuff can shoot properly tested. This is how most folks test their stuff for accuracy.

Same stuff shot prone slung up in a good positfion using good marksmanship skills and knowledge is better. There's not much difference in group sizes between scope sights and aperture sights in scores shot on bullseye targets. One can keep their aiming area in a 3/4 MOA circle when the do all the right things. But the small variables in holding the rifle opens up the groups on paper 3/4 to 1-1/2 MOA.

Very small groups shot with that stuff happens in prone, with or without a sling, but the stock is rested front and back. Such a position is much more repeatable than without rests on prone. A 1/10th MOA aiming area is possible. Rifle holding variables can open up groups 1/4 to 1/2 MOA.

Tiniest groups are shot with very heavy rifles laying on precision rests that stay in position and let the rifle slide back in free recoil very repeatably for each shot. The rear one will be moved a bit sideways to compensate for wind changes. Easy to do when the only thing touching the rifle was a finger on a 2-ounce trigger. Such is life in benchrest matches when the aiming area is about 1/100 MOA or less. And there are no rifle holding variables.

So, what position do you want to shoot from?
 
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Well, this isn't directly shooting related but it's close. I have been getting my reloading setup put together, and one of the big things is building a good bench for reloading and cleaning the guns. It will also double as a soldering workstation. (yes, I will keep powder and hot irons very far away from each other!)

Anyways, found steel at the local recyclers. Got all I need for $20. The wood is reclaimed from some old barn years ago. It has been sitting in my garage for the last 4 years, and I am glad to finally find a really good use for it. The table is 2x2 welded steel framed (no, I am not going to show you my welds) and the top is about 1.5" thick. Should be plenty sturdy. I was also very happy with how straight I got it to come out. Next step is to glue the slabs together, paint the frame, and get it put together. Then the real fun begins!

Not quite there yet, but I will have a lot of questions about reloading itself. Stay tuned!

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You can make any weld look good with a decent angle grinder!
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After jointing they fit together nice and flat.
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Next question is what type of finish for the top?
 
Much more progress on my reloading bench.

Painted the frame with Rustoleum Hammered Black.
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More coats of oil and then shellac for the upper shelf.
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Starting assembly in the bedroom.
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Structural testing. So far we know it can support the weight of a baby.
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Installed back boards, foot boards, went through half a can of wood screws mounting everything up, moved my stuff over, and the bench is complete. Not to get the reloading gear setup.
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Turned out really good, even by my standards. It will serve well. For now the only thing I am hard mounting is the press. I will mount the powder press to a movable plate and not mount it to keep desk space open. Might change it later, but that should work for now.
 
As per the advice I went ahead and changed out the scope mounts on my Remington 700 .270. These should work a lot better. Now I get to zero my rifle again.

Before:
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After:
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I also pulled the 2-7x Leupold scope off of my Weatherby Vanguard .223 and am replacing it with the Vortex Viper 4-16x50. The Leupold is going on a new AR15 build which you can follow here:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=557001

Silas doesn't want to give it back.
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Also I did a trigger job on the 700. Not super hard. Not sure what the new pull is, but it is MUCH lighter. I didn't overdo it- but it does feel nice and light. I did the slam test, cycled it hard many many times to check for accidental firing. The only thing I did not do is put nail polish over the screws. Is this important? Easy fix I suppose but if its not needed then I won't bother.

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I did some reloading. I'm starting to get the hang of it. Out of my first batch only 5 were good, but I'm getting better. Still learning. Getting some crinks around the necks. Here are the rejects:

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I have a friend who can pull the bullets and reclaim the powder and bullets.

Also got my helper.
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First I want to say what a beautiful job you did on your work bench. Have no dought your work on your rifle, reloading & shooting will be the same. I'm a benchrest shooter. Started with a Rem.700 308 cal. in the quest for better accuracy I like you adjusted the trigger. Then bedded the action with devcon 10110 steel putty, worked great to improve my groups. I shoot 200 yards, using the same rifle for 10 years, it becomes a part of you, once you practice with your rifle for awile all the fears disappear. I always mix in a dummy round to double check me every time I shoot. Now that your into reloading,take a fired case leave the used primer in size the case like you do your loaded rounds, I fill the case with cotton, seat the bullet, mix it in with your loaded rounds, its a good way to test yourself. Reloading is another venture, Get a Uniformer, uniform your primer pockets, cleans And cuts the pocket to the proper depth, you will never have a problem seating a primer. Don't mix your brass, different brands can be thicker which will change the way the round will shoot. Trim your brass & keep headspace to a minimum. Again,A guy that can build a bench like that, I have no dought will master the above. Welcome to the family. Chris
 
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