My new (first) Kimber - definitely a mixed bag

rock jock, you can lighten your trigger pull a bit by installing a reduced power main spring. I replaced my stock spring in my kimber custom with a 19lb. one about 4 years ago and it works great. It lightened the trigger some and I still have 100% ignition on the primers. It looks like wolff has 20lb. ones for your pistol. They also have them in packs of 20, 21 and 22lb. so you can dial in your pistol. http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/KimberNF.html#Kimber4 Mark
 
A car analogy does not fit here. Quality control is a little easier in gun manufactoring than in auto manufactoring. All I am saying is that you shouldn't need to do anything to an "out of the box" pistol, to make it reliable.
 
That is understood. However, what I am trying to say is that I have rarely ever owned a gun of any type that I didn't feel could use a little improvement here or there. Yes, the last round malf with rock_jock's Kimber may sound serious, but it's really a simple fix and not worth cussing the entire gun over.
 
Rock jock here's what Bill Wilson says about reduced mainsprings like I was talking about. It's scanned from his book "The Combat Auto". Mark
 

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In the FWIW department, I was at my buddy's gun shop not long ago. He had a Les Baer that I was drooling over, and he gave it to me to play with. The slide was so tight that it was almost impossible to rack it. He told me that Les Baer had warned him to tell customers to expect jams for the first 500 rounds or so because of the tightness of the fit. My Kimbers were super-tight from the start, but now they've loosened a bit and never jam.
 
Thanks for the attachment railroader. I appreciate you scanning that page in, and I think I will give that a try in the near future.

Today I brought my Kimber back to the dealer who installed the safety and had him burnish the edge off the right side. It feels much better now and I can wipe the safety on/off with relaitve ease.

Thanks for all the replies and Merry Christmas.
 
A device should at the very least be able to perform the task for which it was designed without malfunction.

That is the very LEAST that a gun should be able to do.

How many more years will it take to finally work out all fo the bugs on a 1911?




Chalk me up as a Glock fan - At least it perfroms it's taks reliably...

CANIS
 
There are no more "bugs" in the 1911 design than with any other weapon system, including the allegedly "perfect" Glock. The problems discussed here are the result of quality assurance issues. Yes, they SHOULD be able to get it right from the factory, but this isn't 1927 anymore. Back then the guns were all made of tool steel, and assembled by legions of skilled workers trained to do a single task well. Nowadays however that amount of hand labor is too expensive to even consider. The reason why Glocks are so cheap, yet usually work well is because the design relies on parts made from simple stampings and moldings, where anybody that knows how to flip a switch can operate the machine to make the part. 1911s have been economized to allow a greater number of parts to be made from simple castings, but there is still a need to hand-fit a lot of those parts. Once properly assembled a 1911 is a super shooting machine, but I am also not surprised on a new one if a part or two didn't get fitted properly such as the extractor. The need for competent hand fitting of many of its parts is the primary weak link in the 1911 design, at least as it relates to modern firearms. But I certainly won't abandon it just because of that, because its virtues far outweigh its vices.

Thus my reason for telling rock_jock to just get those parts tuned up. One or two small snags shouldn't keep him from enjoying his new gun. BTW I wouldn't send a gun of mine back to the factory (warranty or no), as in all likelihood the same half-trained personnel would try to "fix" it.
 
Rock Jock, for the cost of mailing the gun back to Kimber, they will do a trigger job on it and tension the extractor under warranty.

If you don't want to send it back, in general, the trigger problems you describe will work themselves out over time as the parts wear. As others have said, a few hundred rounds through it will likely straighten it out. If you call Kimber's customer service line, that's in fact what they will tell you to try first before you return it to them.

The trigger creep you feel is either due to rough surfaces on the sear/hammer interface or friction between parts that aren't supposed to be rubbing (e.g. the trigger bow could be bent causing it to fit tighter in the frame than normal). If you are comfortable with detail stripping the pistol, you can polish the mating surfaces of the sear/hammer and improve things a lot. If you don't want to strip it, you can often improve the creep by applying firm forward pressure to the cocked hammer while dry firing it. Do this 20 or 30 times and you will probably find that the creep gets a lot better, if not disappearing altogether.

The excessive takeup you describe can also be adjusted on the stock Kimber trigger by bending two tabs on the trigger bow which control how far forward the trigger is allowed to travel. Again, you'll have to detail strip it to try this.

Or, you might just send it back to Kimber and have them tend to it :)

Paul
 
I recently bought my first 1911, the Kimber Custom Eclipes II and like you I also had a few disappontments at first. IE, slide failing to lock back after last round. This was intermitent and went away after about 400 -500 rounds and some good cleanings. Intermitent FTE, and brass ejecting in all differant directions again all went away after polishing the feed ramps and putting 400-600 rounds through the pistol.
The trigger was tight and at about 4 1/2 LBs out of the box, after adjusting it a little dry firing and the proper lube, the trigger is very crisp and now down to about 3 LBs

Merrry Christmas all
Tony


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