Muzzlebrakes....?

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Dearhunter61

New member
I was wondering how many of you use muzzle brakes on your rifles?

If you use them what calibers do you have them on?

How much did it reduce the recoil?

If you do not have one on a hard hitting rifle why not?

If you do would you have one placed on the same rifle again?

I own a 7Mag, 300Mag and a 280 mountain rifle that kicks every bit as hard as the first two.

How much did it cost you to have one installed?

Did any of you have accuracy issues with your rifle after you installed one on your rifle?

Thanks,
 
I can only vouch for how thoroughly they deafen the poor bastard who's trying to shoot next to you at a rifle range.
They are like the opposite of silencers.
 
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I have one on my 50Bmg....very effective....thought about putting one on my .308 and .300Win mag for range testing handloads. I am not really recoil sensitive, but after about 20+ rounds of 300WM testing, it starts to get old. My range is a solo bench on BLM land, so I dont have to worry about the guy next to me, because there isnt one. I like the Brockman idea of turning it off for hunting. I think he still has his web-site...www.brockmansrifles.com
 
B.L.E.

I agree with you completely on blowing out the guy next to you on the range. I have been that guy many times. Pisses me off too. That is the main reason I have yet to put one on either of the 3 rifles I mentioned earlier.

But I have been told that they can put Muzzlebrakes on them that pushes the sound out a a 45 degree angle away from you and that they still give the shooter equitable relief from recoil.

Ultimately it is because of health issues that I am considering having these put on the rifles.
 
I have brakes on one rifle ( .30-06 ) and two of my TC pistol barrels ( .308, and .45-70 ) and they really cut down the recoil - I would guess probably a 30% reduction on the rifles, and 20% or more on the pistols.

If you use the rifle to hunt then be prepared to use ear protection when you get ready to fire.

I made the mistake once, just once, of not using ear plugs when touching off a 15" .308 with a muzzle tamer brake on it..I couldn't hear for days, and thought I had ruptured an eardrum.

If you have a physical issue that requires you to lower the recoil of your favorite rifles then may i suggest starting with a good recoil pad like a limbsaver, then perhaps reduce the loads in the gun, then and only then should you put a brake on it.

hope this helps
 
I have an Answer brake on my 338 win mag and my 7mm rem mag. They make a huge difference in felt recoil and also allow me to stay on target easier. That being said when I am at the range I go out of my way to be sure eveyon is ready when I touch one off, I had some a** hole do it to my dad and he lost the hearing in his one ear do to it. Great acessorie on big bores but not always the most convenient. Also watch for muzzle blast
 
MB's

I have MB's on a few different rifles. IMO the MB gives the shooter more control of the rifle. And also the muzzle flip is greatly reduced allowing a shooter to stay on target.

I never understood how it could be rude at the range. the first thing I do before I get out of my truck at the range is to put in my ear plugs. I use ear plugs and muffs at the range. But I always have my ear plugs in. Why would a person go to the range and not put in plugs???

I often wonder do these same guys not wear safety glasses?? Tom.
 
"If you use them what calibers do you have them on?"
-.338 R.U.M
-500 S&W Magnum

"How much did it reduce the recoil?"
-.338 R.U.M, lots and lots. Now it kicks about like my 30-06
-500 S&W Magnum, not sure as I've never shot it w/o the brake... I never will either;)

"If you do not have one on a hard hitting rifle why not?"
-not on my Marlin 1895 GS 45-70 because I want to keep it short light & handy.

"If you do would you have one placed on the same rifle again?"
-yes, I'll never shoot that .338 R.U.M w/o a brake again.

"How much did it cost you to have one installed?"
I think it was around $200, its been a while

"Did any of you have accuracy issues with your rifle after you installed one on your rifle?"
-No, my accuracy improved as I'm no longer afraid of the thing.
 
barrett manual

Were hearing & eye protection when firing when possible.

Futher hearing protection is afforded by " keeping your mouth closed when firing."



Under NO circumstances may the rifle be fired without the muzzle brake.


good advice i think :)
 
If you use them what calibers do you have them on?
.280 Rem 26" Handi Rifle, .338 WM 26" Rem 700, 7-mm08 15" Magnum Research Lone Eagle handgun,


How much did it reduce the recoil?
.280 feels like .223 Rem. .338 feels like .270 Win. 7-mm08 feels like a 357 Mag.


If you do not have one on a hard hitting rifle why not?
It either adds length or you shorten useable bbl. length to maintain the same OA length.


If you do would you have one placed on the same rifle again?
All mine are removeable...


How much did it cost you to have one installed?
.280 No cost built and installed myself. .338 $110 about 6 yrs. ago. 7-mm08 came with it as a standard feature.


Did any of you have accuracy issues with your rifle after you installed one on your rifle?
None at all for me. The .280 was for the wife (at the time). I'm sure it made her shoot better, as she was just a little thing. Along with the brake on the .338 I also changed the scope and mounts, so an accuracy before-and-after would not be meaningful as pertaining to a brake installation. Never shot the handgun without the brake, so wouldn't know, but it's plenty accurate with the brake.

One thing that cannot be disputed, they do increase percieved muzzle blast, and to me this includes not only the decible level but also the felt concussion. Looks way cool in low light conditions though....:D
 
I have a factory brake on a 257-wby mag I think standard recoil on 257 wby is about 15 pounds of Recoil energy. Wetherby claim up to 53% reduction in recoil, I would say its got a little less kick than my 22-250 but you pay for that with BLAST accuracy is just as good with or without the brake in stalled
 
"If you do not have one on a hard hitting rifle why not?"
-not on my Marlin 1895 GS 45-70 because I want to keep it short light & handy.
Click to expand...

A muzzle brake probably wouldn't reduce the recoil of a .45-70 as dramatically as it does on high velocity calibers.
What muzzle brakes do is remove the gunpowder gasses from the recoil equation by redirecting them backwards. that's why they deafen the shooter.
The gunpowder gasses weigh just as much as the gunpowder that created them and with a .45-70, the 405 grain bullet outweighs the gunpowder by about 10 to 1. Hence, the majority of this gun's recoil comes from bullet momentum and the gunpowder gasses add only a small amount of recoil.

By contrast, a .220 Swift loaded with a 40 grain bullet uses about 40 grains of gunpowder. The gasses that push the bullet weigh as much as the bullet and it's the gasses that account for most of this gun's kick. Redirect those gasses backwards and it may even be possible to make this gun kick forward.
 
I appreciate everyones response. I am leaning toward getting one fitted on one of the 3 rifles I mentioned earlier.

I went to the range today and took my 300Mag and 7Mag and even though I used a led sled the 30 rounds I put through them left me with a tender shoulder and an aching neck. Everytime I pulled the trigger even with all the weight I had on the sled the rifles would still move it back about an inch each time.

Since I struggle with degenerative disc disease in my neck and also have seperated both shoulder multiple times I simply can not take pounding anymore.

Thanks,
 
I love the brake I have. It's a noise reducer type (Holland's Quick Discharge) but people still are shy about it. It's on a Remington 700 .22-250. I shoot at a range that has deflectors I'm required to use. Is it any worse than the guy next to me with a M1A? Nope, but he doesn't have to use deflectors. I'm shooting sub .500" 5 shot groups at 100 yards with a factory barrel. Something is working for me.
 
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dearhunter61 Maybe you might think about selling one of them, if that’s the case cos you almost have one in the same in 7mm mag & 300 mag
what ever one will do the other is either not far behind or not far in front power wise, that being 300 mag.
Maybe go with something a little tamer you dont always need a magnum to drop a game animal in its tracks nor need to be belted in the chop with every pull of the trigger just a thought.
 
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With the increasing use of baffles at most public ranges, the issue of a brake's increase of muzzle blast for the shooter is pretty much a moot issue anyway. With a big ole wall in front of your rifle, it may as well have a muzzle brake on it as far as blast is concerned.
 
Hardhit,

At least as of now there is no way I will ever sell either of these two rifles. I realize as far as performance they are close. But these are rifles I have had for over 20 years and are most precious to me. I intend to pass them down to my grandsons if I am blessed enough to have some.

As far as having rifles that get the job done and do not kick the crap out of me...I have been blessed to be able to have more than just those two rifles. So I have a few that are great deer rifles that do not kick that bad and certainly do the job.

The thread was started simply because I really do not want to give up shooting and hunting with the big ones. They are great rifles and do the job and if I can get them to shoot like my 6.5x55 Swede then I will be back in business using them on occasion.

Thanks,
 
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