Muzzle loading and cleaning bore . . .

The pistol I have chosen is the Pietta
RGC44 1858 Bufflao/Bison 12" Brass frame

Do NOT use Pyrodex pellets in it. They will turn that brass frame into a paperweight. Brass frames can't handle full loads. Keep your loads down to 20 grains or less with round balls and it will last a long time. Bump them up much past 20 and you will soon see the cylinder ratchet imprinting itself into the recoil shield. Once that starts it will only get worse.
 
NRA/NMLRA training says to do wet patch / dry patch prior to loading after each shot.

For NSSA competition, I run 2-3 wet patches and a couple dry ones in between each course of fire, with each course of fire being 12 or so shots.

Steve
 
And, if you fire off a "salute" for whatever reason (charge of powder without a projectile) it's a good idea to swab that bore REAL GOOD before "trying" to load a patched round ball over the next charge of powder. Tried that once, a long time ago...
 
And, if you fire off a "salute" for whatever reason (charge of powder without a projectile) it's a good idea to swab that bore REAL GOOD before "trying" to load a patched round ball over the next charge of powder. Tried that once, a long time ago...

I do that every time before I load up to go hunting. Never swabbed the bore afterwards. No problems.
 
I do that every time before I load up to go hunting. Never swabbed the bore afterwards. No problems.

That makes me wonder if you are the only hunter in MS left who still uses a muzzleloader. I swapped mine for a .35 Whelen Encore the first time I could.
 
I had a good shooting buddy when I lived back East, who before a match with a clean rifle, would snap a couple of caps and pour a light (maybe 10 grns.) charge of powder down the bore, cap the rifle and then would shoot off the charge (on the line, range open, of course). He then ran a fouling swab down the bore and said he was ready to shoot the match. He said the light charge would burn out any oil residue left in the fire channel and breech; no worries with misfires or hangs, and I never saw him having any issues.

Personally, a couple of dry patches through the bore followed by a couple of snapped caps always seems to work just fine for me to prepare for a shoot, or a hunt for that matter. During a hunting season, especially when my rifle might be left loaded for a few days, I'd just as soon not leave burnt powder fouling in the breach, and that's just my take on it. I also don't care to leave a m.l. loaded for too very long. If the gun was clean when loaded, and wasn't fired, I pull the ball, dump the powder and leave it empty until I go out again. That's just my way, and it's always worked for me. I know everyone has their own method, and if it works, that's a great thing. Make sure, then go ahead...

And, as far as m.l. salutes go, I ONCE charged up my rifle (a TC, 50 cal. Hawken back in those days) with 100 grns. of powder and shot off a salute with a bunch of guys to celebrate something; can't even remember what for. Then, shooting in a match a little later, and without a thought about it, poured powder, started the patched r.b., and tried to ram the ball home. Got about half the way down the bore, and that was it. I ended up needing help to pull the ball, and then had to clean the rifle of fouling and damp powder from the ball pulling session. I have shot a few salutes since, but always cleaned the bore pretty well before trying to load powder and ball after making the big noise. It's just what I do now using the Holy Black, with or without a patched round ball. I guess everyone's m.l. mileage certainly does vary, and a mentor or two during the learning curve is a fine thing. I was lucky to have some very good ones through the years.
 
That makes me wonder if you are the only hunter in MS left who still uses a muzzleloader. I swapped mine for a .35 Whelen Encore the first time I could.

I should have said when I hunted since I'm no longer able to but yeah I probably was. I even hunted with it during regular gun season more often than not.

Personally, a couple of dry patches through the bore followed by a couple of snapped caps always seems to work just fine for me to prepare for a shoot, or a hunt for that matter. During a hunting season, especially when my rifle might be left loaded for a few days, I'd just as soon not leave burnt powder fouling in the breach, and that's just my take on it. I also don't care to leave a m.l. loaded for too very long.

I just dumped a little powder out of the horn without measuring it and fired it off. Loaded it up and hit the woods. If I didn't fire it I didn't worry about it. I've left guns uncleaned for over a week after firing real bp and Pyrodex with no rust or corrosion. Leaving a clean gun loaded isn't a problem. They can be loaded for years and years with no issues. I have a CVA Hawken that was given to me. The man that owned it hadn't used it in about 12 years. It was loaded with 90 grains of Pyrodex(going by what his measure was set at)and a conical. One cap, one trigger pull and that conical was gone with plenty of authority.
 
Good to share this stuff; what works, and maybe what doesn't. Just last Sunday I was up in MT, shooting with a bunch of old (and a couple of new ones, too) shooting buddies. We had a really fun time shooting for quarters at paper and iron, and reminiscing on "our" old shooting and rendezvous days. And as one of our dear departed once told me whilst waiting to take our shots at a gong a fair number of years ago, he just up and says, "There's really nothing like shooting the ol' patched round ball." And, by God, he was right. He was a first rate shooter and gun-builder, too.
 
He certainly was right. As I said before I can't get out and hunt anymore but I'm proud to say I got a doe on the last day I hunted and I got her with my trusty smoke pole.

meap1Bql.jpg
 
Good on you, Hawg! Nice whitetail, nice Hawken, too! Nothin' like makin' meat with the good ol' patched round ball. Good medicine, certain sure.
 
That rifle was scratch built by a fella in Indiana from blueprints. He even made the iron furniture except for the nose cap which is a Ted Cash. The barrel is a NOS Douglas for a CVA Mountain Rifle. He cut the drum breech off and installed the correct slanted snail which brought the barrel length down to 31 inches. The lock internals are Chambers. The double set triggers are from an original English sporting rifle and it is a tack driver.
 
swab

All of my BP hunting was for Ruffed Grouse and pheasant using a !6 gauge flintlock fowler or, occasionally, a Navy Arms 12 gauge cap lock SXS.
I carried a small container with cleaning patches soaked in pure alcohol. I would run one down the barrel after it was fired.
Pete
 
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