Motor Oil = Gun Oil...... Opinions?
- Thread starter (BH)
- Start date
My thought on Mobile 1 for guns is that it does 99% of what any other gun oil does and it costs 99% less. When I go the range I usually take 2-3 handguns and 2-3 rifles with me. I have some serious cleaning to do when I get home. I use the oil to clean and lubricate and I go through quite a bit. The good news is Mobile 1 makes the steel pretty slippery so most stuff just wipes right off.
srt 10 jimbo
New member
I'll stick with the Break free LCP too
Ed Harris former tech editor for NRA's Rifleman magazine, Ruger tech employee, etc. came up with this bore cleaner and gun oil years ago. It works for me, and seems to cut down on the amt and quantity of bore leading I encounter. It's cheap to make, satisfies my DIY nature and effective. There 'ya go.
For a first rate gun oil he recommended a 50-50 mix of the Dextron ATF and kerosene. The link if you care to see the entire discussion by Ed is: http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm
Regards, Rodfac
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
*
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
*
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
*
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
*
CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
*
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
*
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
For a first rate gun oil he recommended a 50-50 mix of the Dextron ATF and kerosene. The link if you care to see the entire discussion by Ed is: http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm
Regards, Rodfac
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
*
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
*
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
*
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
*
CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
*
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
*
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
nitetrane98
Moderator
We were taught that this was a no-no in police academy. The reason was that WD-40 is a very effective primer killer.
srt 10 jimbo
New member
Glad my gun dont take 11 quarts like my truck.
Been using ATF on my guns for years, even on my CCW that frequently rides in my pocket. No rust, things move like they should, and ATF is cheap.
This weekend, I had my gun in my pocket as I rode my bike around town doing errands, then went to the local fairgrounds to set up for an event. The gun was in my pocket, in hot weather, while I was working up a sweat from 7am till 3pm. When I got home, I wiped the exterior down with a Hoppes silicone impregnated cloth and then swabbed the barrel and chambers (revolver) with the same cloth to remove the dust, lint, etc.
I used RemOil, Militec, and a variety of other gun specific lubes prior. I see no functional difference between them and plain old ATF except for price.
Chris
This weekend, I had my gun in my pocket as I rode my bike around town doing errands, then went to the local fairgrounds to set up for an event. The gun was in my pocket, in hot weather, while I was working up a sweat from 7am till 3pm. When I got home, I wiped the exterior down with a Hoppes silicone impregnated cloth and then swabbed the barrel and chambers (revolver) with the same cloth to remove the dust, lint, etc.
I used RemOil, Militec, and a variety of other gun specific lubes prior. I see no functional difference between them and plain old ATF except for price.
Chris
more forty fives
New member
Well who win's mobil1 or ATF ?
But shouldn't automaic transmission fluid....
Be used on semi auto's only?
Manuals (revolvers) should use manual 90 wt oil?
Nah, just kidding
From what I have read and heard, just keep away from any 'mineral' oils, and you should be right.... thats why the others keep saying 'synthetic only' coz it aint mineral. I use INOX, which is like WD40 (sort of) but is sold in gun shops....
I am going to try some dextron tho, i have heaps of it for my auto trannies
Be used on semi auto's only?
Manuals (revolvers) should use manual 90 wt oil?
Nah, just kidding
From what I have read and heard, just keep away from any 'mineral' oils, and you should be right.... thats why the others keep saying 'synthetic only' coz it aint mineral. I use INOX, which is like WD40 (sort of) but is sold in gun shops....
I am going to try some dextron tho, i have heaps of it for my auto trannies
Daugherty16
New member
We don't need no stinkin' oil...
what's all this talk about cleaning and lubing? What are you, a bunch of nancys? My guns like to roll around in the dirt after being fired, then they shake dry and they're good to go. A little grit in the action can go a long ways toward stiffening up the trigger, makes it feel like new, and makes the slides feel factory-fresh and tight. Also a healthy coat of dust can fill in micro gaps on a revolver, improving cylinder rotation and lockup, and takes the reflective sheen off any gun, making them harder for a BG to see. Yep, dirt is my friend.
Actually, i've used Hoppes #9 for as long as i can remember, then Rem-oil from a spray can onto a patch for the final pass. A used oil patch then also works well to very lightly oil the rails, and with a jag can be great at dislodging dirt and buildup from recessed areas and hard to reach spots. I'd be concerned with the viscosity of ATF - i can picture it running into the action and coagulating. It's cold here in the winter, so both my pistols (carry) and rifles (hunting) have to be pretty close to oil-free in the winter.
Then again, an old mechanics trick is to dump a quart of ATF into your crankcase about 10 minutes before you drain your oil - removes deposits and gunk and thins the motor oil to get better drainage. Hm. Sounds like it might work pretty darn good as a cleaning solvent, if nothing else.
what's all this talk about cleaning and lubing? What are you, a bunch of nancys? My guns like to roll around in the dirt after being fired, then they shake dry and they're good to go. A little grit in the action can go a long ways toward stiffening up the trigger, makes it feel like new, and makes the slides feel factory-fresh and tight. Also a healthy coat of dust can fill in micro gaps on a revolver, improving cylinder rotation and lockup, and takes the reflective sheen off any gun, making them harder for a BG to see. Yep, dirt is my friend.
Actually, i've used Hoppes #9 for as long as i can remember, then Rem-oil from a spray can onto a patch for the final pass. A used oil patch then also works well to very lightly oil the rails, and with a jag can be great at dislodging dirt and buildup from recessed areas and hard to reach spots. I'd be concerned with the viscosity of ATF - i can picture it running into the action and coagulating. It's cold here in the winter, so both my pistols (carry) and rifles (hunting) have to be pretty close to oil-free in the winter.
Then again, an old mechanics trick is to dump a quart of ATF into your crankcase about 10 minutes before you drain your oil - removes deposits and gunk and thins the motor oil to get better drainage. Hm. Sounds like it might work pretty darn good as a cleaning solvent, if nothing else.
kmrcstintn
New member
haven't tried motor oil for lube/cleaning; tried ATF once to soak crap out of a 'sticky' Ruger Security Six...worked good, but had to use an aerosol degreaser/cleaner to remove the remainder of the ATF and suspended crap;
I usually use Kleen Bore Formula 3 CLP for lubrication and lightly coating outside of guns and wooden stocks (safe for wood); costs @ $2.00-2.50 for a 2 ounce dripper bottle...like it alot more than Hoppes 9 oil, Rem oil, Break Free CLP oil, etc
I usually use Kleen Bore Formula 3 CLP for lubrication and lightly coating outside of guns and wooden stocks (safe for wood); costs @ $2.00-2.50 for a 2 ounce dripper bottle...like it alot more than Hoppes 9 oil, Rem oil, Break Free CLP oil, etc
Last edited:
motor oil
It makes sense if you think about it. The temps, loads and chemical attacks oil has to deal with in a car or not unlike in a gun just to a far greater degree. If a synthetic oil can deal with sustained temps of hundreds of degrees, loads of thousands of pounds and attack by combustion byproducts it should deal with a gunslide and some powder easily. A good synthetic especially the new ester oil should be an excellent lub/protectant. Some people mentioned fish oil. Although it would lubricate animal and vegitable based oils break down easily ad fast. You could buy a quart of mobile 1 Ester oil (not cheap) and it would lube all your guns for life most likely.
ATF should work for many of the same reasons. Add to that it likes to stick around and has good corrosion resistance.
Anyone have any idea how ATF would react with poly frames? I have not noticed it have much effect on ABS or plastic car parts but who knows under sustained contact.
It makes sense if you think about it. The temps, loads and chemical attacks oil has to deal with in a car or not unlike in a gun just to a far greater degree. If a synthetic oil can deal with sustained temps of hundreds of degrees, loads of thousands of pounds and attack by combustion byproducts it should deal with a gunslide and some powder easily. A good synthetic especially the new ester oil should be an excellent lub/protectant. Some people mentioned fish oil. Although it would lubricate animal and vegitable based oils break down easily ad fast. You could buy a quart of mobile 1 Ester oil (not cheap) and it would lube all your guns for life most likely.
ATF should work for many of the same reasons. Add to that it likes to stick around and has good corrosion resistance.
Anyone have any idea how ATF would react with poly frames? I have not noticed it have much effect on ABS or plastic car parts but who knows under sustained contact.
Why would it? Are you saying motor oil weakens an engines internals?
I have 3000+ rounds through my M&P 9c and its been my regular carry gun for years now. I've used Mobile 1 for all of it. My M&P looks like the day I bought it. There is not discernible wear on it at all and I've never had any rust. Carbon wipes right off and there is NO gunking up or residue when I clean it. mobile 1 works great if you ask me.
I agree. Someone always joins this type of discussion with a statement like that. That thinking is why you spend so much money for an ounce of gun oil that is basically the same thing that comes in a $5 quart of synthetic motor oil or ATF. I find it comical that some people think the small stresses on the internals of a weapon are so much more than the stresses on the internals of a 200 or 1000 HP motor running at thousands of RPM and pushing a 3000lb car down the road on a 100 degree day. I think if the Mobile 1 can handle that it will do ok on my guns.
I tried Weaponshield on my guns. I really couldn't tell much difference between it and the Mobile 1 I use. I wouldn't doubt that it probably offers a little more corrosion resistance than the Mobile 1 but since I don't have any rust on any of my weapons I really wouldn't know.
I have 3000+ rounds through my M&P 9c and its been my regular carry gun for years now. I've used Mobile 1 for all of it. My M&P looks like the day I bought it. There is not discernible wear on it at all and I've never had any rust. Carbon wipes right off and there is NO gunking up or residue when I clean it. mobile 1 works great if you ask me.
I agree. Someone always joins this type of discussion with a statement like that. That thinking is why you spend so much money for an ounce of gun oil that is basically the same thing that comes in a $5 quart of synthetic motor oil or ATF. I find it comical that some people think the small stresses on the internals of a weapon are so much more than the stresses on the internals of a 200 or 1000 HP motor running at thousands of RPM and pushing a 3000lb car down the road on a 100 degree day. I think if the Mobile 1 can handle that it will do ok on my guns.
I tried Weaponshield on my guns. I really couldn't tell much difference between it and the Mobile 1 I use. I wouldn't doubt that it probably offers a little more corrosion resistance than the Mobile 1 but since I don't have any rust on any of my weapons I really wouldn't know.
Samuel2001
New member
Wow! Great subject guys!
Went shooting a couple of weeks back and forgot to bring my oil and cleaning type supplies with us. After a few hours of the wife and kid shooting some .22 I brought, they started drying up and missfiring. The only thing I thought of, was pulling the engine oil (Use Mobil1 10w30) dip stick out of my Jeep and allowing a few drops to fall into the rails and dust cover. I was pleassantly surprised that it allowed my lil .22s to keep on running and seemed to do a better job than my ole can of Rem oil.
Also on my Glocks I've been using synthetic skate board oil, seems to be pretty thick and stays in place.
I've also read about Ed's Red, but seems to complicated when Hoppe's and other fine products are available.
Went shooting a couple of weeks back and forgot to bring my oil and cleaning type supplies with us. After a few hours of the wife and kid shooting some .22 I brought, they started drying up and missfiring. The only thing I thought of, was pulling the engine oil (Use Mobil1 10w30) dip stick out of my Jeep and allowing a few drops to fall into the rails and dust cover. I was pleassantly surprised that it allowed my lil .22s to keep on running and seemed to do a better job than my ole can of Rem oil.
Also on my Glocks I've been using synthetic skate board oil, seems to be pretty thick and stays in place.
I've also read about Ed's Red, but seems to complicated when Hoppe's and other fine products are available.