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Mosin Nagant: CorrosiveAmmo - Cleaning with Windex?
- Thread starter Mike-Mat
- Start date
Even that is excessive. All you really need is a your normal cleaning supplies and a little bit of water. Clean as normal, then run a few wet patches through the bore, run a few dry patches through the bore and oil.
The boiling water is much faster than what you propose, simply because I don't do a full cleaning every time I shoot. It usually isn't necessary.
-Put on the tea pot.
-Fix bayonet.
-Stick rifle in ground behind garage.
-Squirt boiling water into chamber with Turkey Baster several times, so a good quantity of water has gone through the bore. I also dip the front 1/2" of the bolt into the water, and swirl it around a couple times.
-wait ~30 seconds, most of the water will evaporate.
-put catch pan under bore, squirt wd40 into chamber, until it runs out muzzle. Squirt WD40 on the bolt face, and in the firing pin hole.
-squirt breakfree into chamber until it runs out the muzzle, plus on the bolt face, and in the firing pin hole (tiny bit).
-run 1 dry patch through.
And you are done. It takes about a minute, including the time waiting for the water to evaporate.
Stephanie B
New member
Instead of a turkey baster, try using a transmission funnel. You can pick up a plastic one from Wally-Woild for a couple of bucks.
One of the previous times this came up, a guy on Calguns ended up calling Hoppes to get the straight answer. Which was: "No"
The old formula worked fine, the current formula, not so much.
Hoppes No9 plus is formulated for Black powder, and should work fine on corrosive primers. http://www.hoppes.com/products/no9_plus.html
That being said, unless you shoot black powder, buying a special solvent just to do the same job as water you get from the tap for free, seems silly.
The old formula worked fine, the current formula, not so much.
Hoppes No9 plus is formulated for Black powder, and should work fine on corrosive primers. http://www.hoppes.com/products/no9_plus.html
That being said, unless you shoot black powder, buying a special solvent just to do the same job as water you get from the tap for free, seems silly.
All you need is water, then clean like you normally do.
Using ammonia is an old wive's tale that does nothing except help the salts corrode.
It probably did change, I use it after shooting corrosive 7n6 soviet in my AK74 and it still rusted around the gasblock and some other parts. I just stick with hosing the whole rifle down with water now and then cleaning as normal.
Using ammonia is an old wive's tale that does nothing except help the salts corrode.
Hoppe's #9 used to be good with corrosive primers, I think it changed.
It probably did change, I use it after shooting corrosive 7n6 soviet in my AK74 and it still rusted around the gasblock and some other parts. I just stick with hosing the whole rifle down with water now and then cleaning as normal.
Mike Irwin
Staff
The old formula Hoppes No. 9 had a ton of benzene in it, which could carry a fair amount of water in it, IIRC.
However, benezene is one hell of a nasty chemical, so it was removed. Now there is almost no water in Hoppes No. 9, so no, it is NOT a suitable solvent for removing corrosive primer or black powder fouling.
However, benezene is one hell of a nasty chemical, so it was removed. Now there is almost no water in Hoppes No. 9, so no, it is NOT a suitable solvent for removing corrosive primer or black powder fouling.
Mike Irwin
Staff
"Using ammonia is an old wive's tale that does nothing except help the salts corrode."
As I noted above, ammonia is good for removing trace amounts of oil which can hide corrosive priming fouling.
The ammonia found in windex or in just about any other household application is HIGHLY diluted with water.
Household ammonia is roughly 85 to 95 % water.
The military, many years ago, use as cleaners ammonia solutions that were quite a bit more potent. Part of the reason was to remove cupronickel fouling, but it was also thought that the ammonia helped "neutralize" the corrosive salts (that's incorrect, obviously).
In the strength that the military used they began to see problems with nitrogen or hydrogen embrittlement of barrel steel.
My father was a civil engineer, and had a blue print machine at the house that developed the prints with bottles of 28% ammonia solution. That stuff was unbelievably nasty if it was spilled. It would pit metal fairly quickly.
But, in the strength that most of us have avaiable to use, we don't need to worry about that, and household ammonia solutions, while not of tremendous benefit, certainly aren't much of a hazard.
So, no, household strengh ammonia solutions really aren't an old wives tale when it comes to being able to help prevent corrosive priming problems.
As I noted above, ammonia is good for removing trace amounts of oil which can hide corrosive priming fouling.
The ammonia found in windex or in just about any other household application is HIGHLY diluted with water.
Household ammonia is roughly 85 to 95 % water.
The military, many years ago, use as cleaners ammonia solutions that were quite a bit more potent. Part of the reason was to remove cupronickel fouling, but it was also thought that the ammonia helped "neutralize" the corrosive salts (that's incorrect, obviously).
In the strength that the military used they began to see problems with nitrogen or hydrogen embrittlement of barrel steel.
My father was a civil engineer, and had a blue print machine at the house that developed the prints with bottles of 28% ammonia solution. That stuff was unbelievably nasty if it was spilled. It would pit metal fairly quickly.
But, in the strength that most of us have avaiable to use, we don't need to worry about that, and household ammonia solutions, while not of tremendous benefit, certainly aren't much of a hazard.
So, no, household strengh ammonia solutions really aren't an old wives tale when it comes to being able to help prevent corrosive priming problems.
I'll throw in my $.02 and give you three options.
1. Windex and Water (mixed 1/4 windex 3/4 water) works followed up with regular cleaning.
2. Ballistol Works fairly well.
3. Ed's Red Works great! (Equal parts of Dexron III automobile transmission fluid, odorless kerosene, mineral spirits, and acetone.). I personally go with this route and use "ER" almost exclusively.
1. Windex and Water (mixed 1/4 windex 3/4 water) works followed up with regular cleaning.
2. Ballistol Works fairly well.
3. Ed's Red Works great! (Equal parts of Dexron III automobile transmission fluid, odorless kerosene, mineral spirits, and acetone.). I personally go with this route and use "ER" almost exclusively.
boostedtt91
New member
I have been using window cleaner w/ ammonia for awhile now to clean my guns after shooting corrosive ammo and has worked great. Its very cheap and ready when you need it.
Mike Irwin
Staff
"Ed's Red Works great! (Equal parts of Dexron III automobile transmission fluid, odorless kerosene, mineral spirits, and acetone.). I personally go with this route and use "ER" almost exclusively."
Not sure why it works, as it shoudn't. There's not a drop of water in that mix, and you need water to dissolve the potassium chloride fouling.
Unless, possibly, the high detergent content of the Dexron is removing the salts...
Not sure why it works, as it shoudn't. There's not a drop of water in that mix, and you need water to dissolve the potassium chloride fouling.
Unless, possibly, the high detergent content of the Dexron is removing the salts...