Mosin-Nagant cleaning problem

Mosin-Marauder

New member
Today I decided to clean and oil my Mosin-Nagant again because I haven't and won't be firing it for a while. And after running half a pot of boiling water down the bore, some patches, Q-Tips, and some Shooter's Choice followed by a light coat of Filtered Lubricant. I looked up the bore and help it to the light and saw some small specks of what I think are particles from the napkins and paper towels I was using for patches after I ran out of .30 patches. But after running some cold water down the bore and running some more paper towels down the bore. Most of the specks went away but there appeared to be some more closer to the chamber in larger numbers. Could this be rust? Would it be okay to leave in the barrel (whatever it is) until I can clean it again? Thanks a lot for your help, i just don't want anything to happen to my rifle.
 
Last edited:
No, don't leave things in the barrel that can attract moisture and support or enable corrosion.
Using napkins and paper towels is a very poor substitute for patches. If you run out of patches take an old flannel shirt that is worn out and cut your self some patches to finish cleaning the gun properly. The old flannel shirt, with a little oil is also good for wiping down your guns after handling them.
I always have a old flannel rag in my gun room for that purpose.
 
yep, don't use paper. get an old sock that has holes in the toe or a ratty old t shirt you don't care about and cut your own patches, work a lot better and cheaper than constantly buying more patches.
 
Mo,
A suggestion to consider is you can buy patches by the bag from Brownells, much cheaper over the long run than buying in small quantities at gunshops.

Otherwise, just about any non-linty cloth you can oil lightly & push down the bore will leave a thin coat of oil & remove paper particles.
Denis
 
Getting patches, keeping costs down...

I like the idea of buying a large bag of patches--They usually come cheaper that way (but be sure to price-shop and compare!!) Old flannel isn't always available.

But, I don't like the idea of having a number of different size patches around.

Back when my patches were old flannel, I used a sharp pair of scissors to cut them to size. Now, I get the largest boughten ones available, usually 3" squares for shotguns. Those get cut to size for whatever caliber/gauge is being dealt with at the moment.

BTW, some commercial patches are made of woven fabric, and some of knit fabric. The knit ones stretch, and might not hold onto the cleaning jag, therefore, make sure to buy the woven variety.
 
Final question. An aluminum or stainless rod with brass extensions and brushes and jags wouldn't hurt the rifling or bore would it? When I clean it and take the rod out of the barrel to put a new patch on it scrapes and rubs against the rifling, I don't think it's hurting it but I just wanna be sure, thanks again.
 
Hi MM,
Always clean from the breach. Wear at the crown of the barrel is what does the damage. Add a few sections of cleaning rod if necessary.
Best,
Rob
 
Re the rods, best to use a NON-jointed one, in that the joins themselves CAN add further abrasion to contact points in the bore.
Especially with steel sections.

And, there's been debate over the years on steel vs aluminum.
Steel is harder, therefore steel rod against steel barrel will wear the barrel more at contact points.
Aluminum is softer, thereby creating more wear BY the harder steel ON the softer ROD, but it's also said that the aluminum picks up & embeds abrasive particles that CAN accelerate wear on the harder steel BORE.

Take your pick.

I use solid, non-jointed steel rods, and as Rob says- ALWAYS clean from the breech end, if possible.

I only use jointed rods for portable or in-field applications.
If not, try to obtain a bore-guide in cleaning from the muzzle end.

Your Mosin should have come with one, if you got the cleaning kit with it.
Denis
 
bore snakes are good for getting rid of the majority of the filth in your rifle if it has gone a long time between cleanings, I love bore snakes for 22s, lots of unburnt powder left after a brick through one of those. however bore snakes aren't much use past that, they still leave the very fine particulates behind and if you've been shooting corrosive ammo then you still hanve salts down your barrel. you also can't oil up a bore snake for final step. I don't use them in my centerfires anymore, I use 1 piece graphite cleaning rods with brass brushes and jags, softer and less abrasive than aluminum or steel. I tried the steel cleaning rods that came with my mosins... didn't much care for them, don't know why.
 
So I'm either stuck with leaving crap in the barrel or marring and destroying my riflings. Great. :P

How bad do stainless rods mess up your bore? And what about aluminum? How bed doesn't hurt the barrel? I'm not sure what material mine is made out of, but I think it's aluminum, due it being kinda light. I know the sections are brass though.
 
Rods...

M-M--Several things:

1. Always clean from the breech end of the bbl if at all practical. Muzzle bore guides are a help, but breech-end cleaning is better. A bore guide in place of the bolt is good too; eliminates getting solvent down into your magazine, etc.

2. The debate on what material of rod to use is ongoing. If you can, use a non-jointed rod; the joints collect crud. Dpris stated the differences between Aluminum and Steel rods. I use a plastic-coated rod, myself. Soft enough to never scratch the bore. To avoid getting abrasive crud on the rod, I wipe it off after each passage through the bore--Would do the same with a metal rod. That's more important than the rod's material, IMHO.

3. Cleaning the bore is better for it than leaving all that crud in it. If you do it right, you won't hurt the rifling.

4. Brand of rod is immaterial. Mine are Dewey's, simply because the LGS I frequent carries that brand.

5. I use a bore snake at the range in between firing strings, as time permits. You can put solvent on the front part of a bore snake, and the tail will wipe it all out, along with the worst of the crud. The nice thing is that there is some crud left--You don't have to fire a fouling shot to "re-dirty" the bore.

6. Above all, don't damage the extreme end of the rifling at the muzzle.
 
Is using an extension on a 1 piece rod considered jointed? Because I don't even think my dad's Dewey rod will reach the muzzle. By the way, I d I not clean for the muzzle. Breach only for this comrade.
 
Mo,
ANY join is considered a joint.
You can't get away from joins (or joints) entirely since the front end of any one-piece rod will typically be "open-ended" in terms of being threaded for various jags & slots.

Just keep those joints to a minimum.
Denis
 
I like one piece Tipton rods and jags. You can get one long enough for your Mosin. I use a 22 centerfire Tipton rod for patchwork thru the 30 caliber pipe, and a long 30 caliber Tipton rod for Mosin bronze core bristle brush work; along with a 30 caliber bore rod guide.

Only send the cotton flannel patch {I buy square yard cotton flannel sheets at Jo Ann fabrics or WalMart --- once thru the pipe --- thusly removing the patch at the muzzle before bringing the rod back to the breech.

Simple Green solution works pretty good on patchworking my bores, before I start bronze core brush copper removing work.

Just remember...you'll never get your bore completely clean. Besides, the bronze core brushes will give you a false flag on copper removal.

Never try to reverse a bronze bristle brush that is stuck in the bore. Unscrew the rod from the brush and find yourself a longer rod; that you can screw-in the stuck brush.
 
Would a boresnake be better?

If you think reusing toilet paper is a good idea, then a boresnake may be right for you.

Ideally, try and find a one piece coated rod that is long enough to clean from the breech, with a brass jag for patches. I use Dewey rods, because that was all there was way back when I got mine.

In reality, there is no reason to clean your rifle every time you shoot**

If you don't over clean, and use a aluminum sectional rod you can get at most sporting goods stores, you will probably be fine, as long as you are pay attention and give the rod a good wipe with a rag before each pass. Don't let crap build up on the rod, and you should be OK. Don't use the steel rod that came with the rifle.

**unless you shoot corrosive ammo, and then the cleaning regimen for neutralizing the salts is different than a traditional cleaning (I use hot water, followed by WD40 to get rid of the water, then a good shot of CLP, and one patch to get the excess out before I put them back in the safe)
 
If you think reusing toilet paper is a good idea, then a boresnake may be right for you.

LOL

My cleaning regiment is completely separating the action from the stock, soaking be magazine follower, ad the bolt head and firing pin in boiling water, then pouring boiling water down the barreled action, then using 1 1/8" patches, putting some hoppe's on a brass brush, then running it down the bore, followed by clean patches until the patches come out clean.
 
Back
Top