Mosin Extractor Leaving Marks on Brass?

Tob,
I said if you remove too much material from the WRONG places, you can create problems.

I seriously doubt Mo is at a stage where he knows where or how much to polish or Dremel.

My concern is that he get to removing material from the bolt head, and/or locking lugs.

Polishing the bolt body isn't going to help close a sticky bolt.
The areas many polish on the bolt are the lugs, and he does NOT want to be doing that.

I respect your experience & the advice you're giving him, but a Dremel is not a good idea at his stage of life. :)
Denis
 
Good.

Meaning no offense to Tob, keep it away from your Mosin.
Don't cut with it, don't grind with it, don't polish with it.

My gunsmith loves Dremels.
He makes a lotta money off people who own Dremel tools & says he's been severely tempted to give one away free with each new gun he sells. :)
Figures he'd get more back in increased repair bills than the Dremels would cost to give away....
Denis
 
I have never messed withthe extractor much
Click to expand...

Then check it.

It should pull easily away from the bolthead...remove the bolt, and try to snap in an empty case. The extractor should easily slip over the rim- make sure it's not sticking.

It's kind of a shot in the dark- but your "symptoms" are unusual. Difficulty chambering a round, on a cold rifle where the bolt runs fine with no round- is puzzling...
 
Hi MM,
That looks like mine do, I bought a spare bolt head or two in the past. Personally, I wouldn't pull the extractor, it may be too hard to get back in place.
As for chambering ammo, if this is something new it's probably the ammo. I'd do any testing outside at the range. There will be some difference between whether you are running ammo home or not. You might use your pinky finger and feel inside the chamber for a rough spot, but remember, these are old military rifles. They are just not going to be very smooth. HTH
Best,
Rob
 
Hey, rob.
Even if the bolt is a bit hard to close, it won't affect me being able to shoot bit will it? I was thinking taking it to a gunsmith to get it looked at. There is a little bit of a rough spot in the chamber where the rim stops at about 7 o'clock.
 
A hard-to-close bolt should have no effect on the rifle's ability to shoot, just in your ability to cycle it.

Let's define "hard to close".

Do you mean rough or hard bolt TRAVEL going forward to chamber a live round, or do you mean closing the bolt HANDLE (rotating & locking it down once the round is chambered)?
Denis
 
Hi MM,
Does that mark in the chamber leave a scratch on the side of the brass? That will tell you where any extra friction is coming from, but as Dpris says where does it really get hard to work? i.e. What part of the process is really taking effort? hth
Best,
Rob
 
OK, it most probably ain't your chamber. :)

Do you have a hard time raising the bolt handle, either removing a chambered round, or removing empty brass after firing?
Denis
 
Okay, just tried again, occasionally there is some resistance when I push the round into the chamber (before pushing the bolt down). And Denis, after the firing pin has hit the primer or I dry fire the bolt requires some force to eject the casing and open the bolt.
 
Is there any particular ammunition where these symptoms occur more than others, or it is pretty consistent regardless of surplus or commercial brand?
Denis
 
Did you check to see if the extractor moves freely away from the bolthead- snap a case in/out?

The MN is a push feed rifle- the extractor snaps over the rim of the cartridge when the bolt completes it's forward travel (unlike the Mauser- which is controlled feed, the extractor snaps over the cartridge at the mag). The extractor must then be able to rotate freely around the side of the case as you close the bolt.

and when I try to cam it it gets hard to close and the second stop before it closes it males this small *pop* before the bolt would chamber it (I heard these chambering live rounds aswell)
Click to expand...

The "pop" you hear sounds like a sticking extractor, to me...as though the extractor isn't engaging the rim until the bolt is nearly closed by your description.

Suggest you take a spent case, and with the bolt open, secure it onto the boltface, making sure the extractor fully snaps over the cartridge rim.

Then feed it forward- easing the cartridge mouth over the magazine feed lip- then push the bolt forward to the end of it's travel. NOW, rotate the bolt closed. Any different?
 
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Some of these guns are hard to cycle. You can see Russian troops slapping the bolts open and closed in WWII films. You can scrub and clean the thing to death and not get it. I remember reading somewhere that one guy was able to have an effect on this by loosening an overtight front action screw. Cheap to try and non destructive.
 
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