More to slings than just a strap over the shoulder?
- Thread starter Pond James Pond
- Start date
Pond James Pond
New member
OK. Here's a challenge for you. I'm going to provide two links. One is Zahal.org, the other is Midway Germany.
Would any members mind having a look on there and let me know if any of the products would fit into the 2-point hoop/Ching type sling that can be a carry aid as well as an aiming aid?
I have no idea which are good brands/designs so if you spot one, please let me know.
I don't want people to dredge through tons of products on my behalf, but if you spot one or two decent examples at a reasonable price, I'd love to know about them.
I'll have to buy a Q-R sling ring for the receiver of my AR as I only have the fore-end sling attachment right now.
Can you help with some goods assessment? I can vet based on costs later, but I certainly don't want to spend a fortune. I'd need something for the .308 and the AR.
Midway Germany
Zahal.org
Would any members mind having a look on there and let me know if any of the products would fit into the 2-point hoop/Ching type sling that can be a carry aid as well as an aiming aid?
I have no idea which are good brands/designs so if you spot one, please let me know.
I don't want people to dredge through tons of products on my behalf, but if you spot one or two decent examples at a reasonable price, I'd love to know about them.
I'll have to buy a Q-R sling ring for the receiver of my AR as I only have the fore-end sling attachment right now.
Can you help with some goods assessment? I can vet based on costs later, but I certainly don't want to spend a fortune. I'd need something for the .308 and the AR.
Midway Germany
Zahal.org
A lot has already been said already. Here's my .02. Note, the word 'patrol' can be swapped out with 'hunting'.
3-point sling:
-Keeps the rifle at a low ready
-Keeps the rifle close to the body
-Can carry a rifle more comfortably over distance (patrols)
-When used properly, will bring the rifle tight into the shoulder
-Can be used as a 2-point sling
-Gives the most difficulty with transitioning to your weak side shoulder (if possible at all)
-Tends to snag against gear if you have any on your chest
-Tended to slow me down during reloading with my AR
2-point sling:
-Most versatility
-Keeps the rifle on the body
-Proper adjustment keeps the rifle close to the body at the low ready
-Can carry a rifle comfortably over distance (patrols)
-Can be used for a hasty sling
-Some can be configured as a 1-point sling
-Gives some difficulty with transitioning to your weak side
1-point sling:
-Keeps the rifle on your person
-Lots of range of motion
-No issue transitioning to weak side shoulder
-Not the best for long distances (patrols)
-Rifle will bounce around if not held
-Not the best option for longer rifles
I'm a fan of 2-point slings, especially ones that can be clipped onto themselves and converted into 1-point slings (1-2 point sling). They offer versatility on a lot of rifles, especially the AR and AK platform. You can use the sling as a carry strap, which just lets you retain the rifle while your hands are busy with other things, and can also be used as a shooting aid in a pinch.
3-point slings are useful if you don't need to worry about transitioning to your weak side or getting caught up on gear. They were the most comfortable type of sling for long patrols and kept the rifle at the low ready. They kept the rifle right against me with the least amount of bounce when adjusted properly. I could also use them as a 2-point sling. For me, however, they kept snagging on the gear on my plate carrier. The strap that runs the length of the rifle tended to get in the way during reloads, and overall restricted more range of motion than I'd have cared for when moving closer in. Again, not something most have to take into consideration.
1-point slings are useful on shorter rifles meant for close in work (CQB). They allow the rifle to be transitioned from one shoulder to the other easily, and give the most range of motion while still offering retention. If you need to switch to a secondary weapon, you just drop the rifle and let it bounce against your gear and your leg, and grab your pistol. However, the rifle will continue to bounce around as you move since it's only held against you at one point of the rifle. So, really, it's just meant for retention and avoid snagging on gear.
A 2-point sling made of stiffer webbing that has ease of adjustability will be your best bet for most practical applications. You can keep the rifle close against your body and be able to keep it at the low ready, or slide the rifle behind you and keep it tight against your back. You can use it as a hasty sling and help stabilize the rifle for the shot you're going to take as well.
If you plan on going on long hikes during hunts, then your best bet is to also have some rubbery material to keep the sling from sliding around, and it'll provide some padding too. Leather is also a viable option, and something I definitely like on a hunting rifle since a well made leather sling is incredibly comfortable (for me), albeit pricey.
QD swivels are nice, but not always necessary. Having HK clips or similar is always nice if you plan on removing the sling quickly. If the sling is going to be something of a permanent feature on your rifle, then I wouldn't even worry about it.
If you're going to go to a carbine class with your Sig, then I'd highly recommend a 1-2 point sling for the versatility. I'd also recommend slapping on a sling adapter on the buffer tube, or replacing the receiver end plate with one that has sling loops. It's simpler than you think if you have a spanner or armorer's wrench; just take care not to lose the buffer detent when removing the buffer tube.
Also, if you want a project and you're handy with 550 cord, you can make your own sling. Grab a couple small steel carabiners (or HK clips) and braid one with a double solomon's knot (or other wide knot). If you really want to get fancy, you can incorporate some 1" wide webbing and make it adjustable. I measured out the length I would need on a sling and just made a 1-2 point non-adjustable sling out of spare 550 cord I had left over and it works great. Beachin Tactical at has some nice ones to look at if that interests you.
3-point sling:
-Keeps the rifle at a low ready
-Keeps the rifle close to the body
-Can carry a rifle more comfortably over distance (patrols)
-When used properly, will bring the rifle tight into the shoulder
-Can be used as a 2-point sling
-Gives the most difficulty with transitioning to your weak side shoulder (if possible at all)
-Tends to snag against gear if you have any on your chest
-Tended to slow me down during reloading with my AR
2-point sling:
-Most versatility
-Keeps the rifle on the body
-Proper adjustment keeps the rifle close to the body at the low ready
-Can carry a rifle comfortably over distance (patrols)
-Can be used for a hasty sling
-Some can be configured as a 1-point sling
-Gives some difficulty with transitioning to your weak side
1-point sling:
-Keeps the rifle on your person
-Lots of range of motion
-No issue transitioning to weak side shoulder
-Not the best for long distances (patrols)
-Rifle will bounce around if not held
-Not the best option for longer rifles
I'm a fan of 2-point slings, especially ones that can be clipped onto themselves and converted into 1-point slings (1-2 point sling). They offer versatility on a lot of rifles, especially the AR and AK platform. You can use the sling as a carry strap, which just lets you retain the rifle while your hands are busy with other things, and can also be used as a shooting aid in a pinch.
3-point slings are useful if you don't need to worry about transitioning to your weak side or getting caught up on gear. They were the most comfortable type of sling for long patrols and kept the rifle at the low ready. They kept the rifle right against me with the least amount of bounce when adjusted properly. I could also use them as a 2-point sling. For me, however, they kept snagging on the gear on my plate carrier. The strap that runs the length of the rifle tended to get in the way during reloads, and overall restricted more range of motion than I'd have cared for when moving closer in. Again, not something most have to take into consideration.
1-point slings are useful on shorter rifles meant for close in work (CQB). They allow the rifle to be transitioned from one shoulder to the other easily, and give the most range of motion while still offering retention. If you need to switch to a secondary weapon, you just drop the rifle and let it bounce against your gear and your leg, and grab your pistol. However, the rifle will continue to bounce around as you move since it's only held against you at one point of the rifle. So, really, it's just meant for retention and avoid snagging on gear.
A 2-point sling made of stiffer webbing that has ease of adjustability will be your best bet for most practical applications. You can keep the rifle close against your body and be able to keep it at the low ready, or slide the rifle behind you and keep it tight against your back. You can use it as a hasty sling and help stabilize the rifle for the shot you're going to take as well.
If you plan on going on long hikes during hunts, then your best bet is to also have some rubbery material to keep the sling from sliding around, and it'll provide some padding too. Leather is also a viable option, and something I definitely like on a hunting rifle since a well made leather sling is incredibly comfortable (for me), albeit pricey.
QD swivels are nice, but not always necessary. Having HK clips or similar is always nice if you plan on removing the sling quickly. If the sling is going to be something of a permanent feature on your rifle, then I wouldn't even worry about it.
If you're going to go to a carbine class with your Sig, then I'd highly recommend a 1-2 point sling for the versatility. I'd also recommend slapping on a sling adapter on the buffer tube, or replacing the receiver end plate with one that has sling loops. It's simpler than you think if you have a spanner or armorer's wrench; just take care not to lose the buffer detent when removing the buffer tube.
Also, if you want a project and you're handy with 550 cord, you can make your own sling. Grab a couple small steel carabiners (or HK clips) and braid one with a double solomon's knot (or other wide knot). If you really want to get fancy, you can incorporate some 1" wide webbing and make it adjustable. I measured out the length I would need on a sling and just made a 1-2 point non-adjustable sling out of spare 550 cord I had left over and it works great. Beachin Tactical at has some nice ones to look at if that interests you.
Get a straight 1" or 1.25" strap in nylon or leather. Attach it at the usual 2 positions. Study Jeff Cooper's The Art of the Rifle for how to use a "hasty sling" as a shooting aid. It's been a looooong time since I read it, but the Boy Scout Marksmanship Merit Badge book had an excellent description back in the day. I'm sure there's an Army Field Manual that describes the technique as well.
Slings that fasten to your arm are great for targets but are too slow and awkward for hunting.
We spend a lot of time arguing the finer points of rifle bedding techniques, load development and bullet seating lengths. Proper use of a shooting sling will improve your accuracy in the field more than all of them put together.
Slings that fasten to your arm are great for targets but are too slow and awkward for hunting.
We spend a lot of time arguing the finer points of rifle bedding techniques, load development and bullet seating lengths. Proper use of a shooting sling will improve your accuracy in the field more than all of them put together.
The Ching gives you pretty much the best of both worlds, when it comes to a working sling. It faster than a hasty to get slung up with, and very near to being as solid as a target type sling. The best part with it is, theres no fiddling to get into it, you just thrust your arm though the loop, and your slung up.
A properly set up 1907 type sling, used as a target sling, isnt really all that slow to get into, once youre used to it. Even when used as a hasty, you still usually need to fiddle with it, unless you set its length before hand.
A properly set up 1907 type sling, used as a target sling, isnt really all that slow to get into, once youre used to it. Even when used as a hasty, you still usually need to fiddle with it, unless you set its length before hand.
I like original slings for my mil-surp rifles. My sling preference for my hunting rifles, is a 2 point black leather Brownells Latigo sling. For my AR's/AK's I prefer Magpul's single point/two point sling, for ease of transition to shoulder to shoulder with a single point. Military slings should be equipped with clips or pushbutton removal on the ends --- for quick detach --- so you can ditch a slung weapon easily; in case you are involved in, say...a helicopter crash.
With single point slings...you can have some "Lord of the Range" types that have the muzzle pointed down at there feet --- when range rules specify --- that when on the concrete firing pad: the muzzle must be pointed downrange, or vertical.
Cylinder & Slides "Steady Strap" is my alternative strap for pistol/rifle shooting. It steady's the gun quite considerably. The only thing it does not prevent...is a flinch. You can even holster draw with it, but someone can quite easily come-up behind you --- and garrote you with the nylon strap.
I've heard that the three point sling has gone out of favor with a lot of shooters.
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccpO&ns=prodshow&ref...
With single point slings...you can have some "Lord of the Range" types that have the muzzle pointed down at there feet --- when range rules specify --- that when on the concrete firing pad: the muzzle must be pointed downrange, or vertical.
Cylinder & Slides "Steady Strap" is my alternative strap for pistol/rifle shooting. It steady's the gun quite considerably. The only thing it does not prevent...is a flinch. You can even holster draw with it, but someone can quite easily come-up behind you --- and garrote you with the nylon strap.
I've heard that the three point sling has gone out of favor with a lot of shooters.
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccpO&ns=prodshow&ref...
Last edited:
Not sure what's difficult about setting up a Ching sling (I used the Galco version on my rifles), but on my Ruger 77/22 in the pic below, it took exactly one sling-swivel screw, placed just behind the mag well, to become the middle point for attaching the short strap.
After that, it was simply a matter of adjusting the middle strap with the supplied screw (where it locks on to the longer strap) in relation to where the tension felt correct for my supporting (left) arm.
After that, it was simply a matter of adjusting the middle strap with the supplied screw (where it locks on to the longer strap) in relation to where the tension felt correct for my supporting (left) arm.
That's not so difficult measured against the spectrum of human endeavor, but it does require some light gunsmithing and you can't buy a Ching sling at any gunstore. That extra bit of work may not be much to you, but for some it's an obstacle.
Let me make it clear, I like the Ching sling, I have them on a couple of my rifles, but it is a bit more work to put one on than a hasty, which requires removing the sling from the packaging and attaching it to existing swivels.
Willie Lowman
New member
I have used the hasty sling for 90% of all my sling needs. It is what I was taught when I was young and for the hunting and recreational shooting I do, it works perfectly.
I picked up a "quick cuff" sling at the flea market. It has a loop that goes around the support arm. I'm not crazy about it but I don't think I have it properly adjusted yet. I also use a BlueForce sling on my SCAR but it is more of a tacticool accessory.
I picked up a "quick cuff" sling at the flea market. It has a loop that goes around the support arm. I'm not crazy about it but I don't think I have it properly adjusted yet. I also use a BlueForce sling on my SCAR but it is more of a tacticool accessory.
Okay, so adding the single screw-eye with the swivel in back of the mag-well qualified as "light gunsmithing" ...
Really? My LGS carries several models of Galco's holsters and it had one of the Ching slings I bought in stock on the rack. The others I ordered from Galco directly. Neither method was more burdensome than using a credit card and/or a c.c and a phone.
If you say so ...
Last edited:
Yeah, I get that. So, if you look at the pic I posted above, to the right of the Ruger is my CZ Scout. On that one I went with a "hasty" sling set up, using an old 1" HK sling. It's adjusted so that there's a larger opening in the front "loop," through which I can slip my left arm quickly for a shot.
It may not be a big deal to YOU, but some folks are a bit leary of drilling a hole in their gunstock. Judging by some of the results I've seen they feel that way for good reason. Some stocks don't have a suitable spot for a third stud where it should be.
Yes, really. The OP lives in Eastern Europe. He may not have quite the selection at hand that you do. But I bet he can scrape up a conventional sling.
Yes, I do say so. This may come as a surprise, but just because a particular task is easy and convenient for YOU doesn't mean it's easy and convenient for everyone.