Very true, I can tell from personal experience reloading .22LR is painfully slow. I did it as a fun project and to see if I could. It does work, sorta, the rounds are accurate at 50 yds and you can vary the powder charge to get high velocity or sub sonic for a fairly quite shot. The kit cast two styles of bullets. The standard heeled 40 is my choice, over the CB cap projectile, however it needs to be lubed, there is a groove for that, but I just used the Lee tumble lube. The very slow part is the priming. I tried dropping in a 3/16 punch, light tap with a brass hammer to pop out the old dent from the previous shot. That is a waste of time, and may weaken the case. Then you need to clean the rim, with the small bass tool included in the kit. This takes a little time, not much but is one more step, as in reloading a rifle case. The mixed priming compound is dropped in and acetone drop behind that. Priming compound must be worked into the rim, takes a little time, but is critical. Allowed to dry for 30 minutes to several hours depending on RH. Then a scoop of powder, the double ended scoop is included. By using one or both ends of the scoop a variety of loads can be achieved from different powders. Put the bullet in and crimp. All in all it is reloading like any basic kit, not like on a Dillon 550. While .22LR are available at low prices it is not a great idea. However, a few years ago .22s were very difficult if not impossible to get in our neck of the woods. Who knows how long this frustration will go on. The kit works and I think with some practice production can be speeded up significantly. The priming compound is corrosive. It can also be used to make percussion caps with the old Tap O Cap or the similar tool from .22reloader. This is a fairly quick process using soda pop cans to punch primer cups from, mix compound, drop into the cup, a drop of acetone, and let them dry. They go bang very well.
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More on primers
- Thread starter Aguila Blanca
- Start date
TruthTellers
New member
This has me interested now because, while I'd never bother doing it with .22 LR, I would for .22 Mag. It's more powerful than .22 LR, costs more than .22 LR, and with it not being a heeled bullet there's a lot of options out there for 30 to 50 grain projectiles.
Are there any good videos of people reloading .22 (or other rimfire calibers) on the internet?
Are there any good videos of people reloading .22 (or other rimfire calibers) on the internet?
Strike anywhere ....
Description: Phosphorus sesquisulfide, free from yellow and white
phosphorus appears as a yellow crystalline solid. ... Forms sulfur dioxide
and phosphorus pentaoxide during combustion. Reacts with water
to form phosphoric acid, a corrosive material.
Bad juju.....
Description: Phosphorus sesquisulfide, free from yellow and white
phosphorus appears as a yellow crystalline solid. ... Forms sulfur dioxide
and phosphorus pentaoxide during combustion. Reacts with water
to form phosphoric acid, a corrosive material.
Bad juju.....
The company that makes the .22 LR reloading kit has a .22 magnum kit as well. I no longer have a .22 magnum so I did not try that kit. It appears the kit has similar bullet molds, however the projectiles are the same. As you said there are several bullet options, plus dies for lubing on a RCBS or Lyman lube sizer. In the LR kit one is a 40 and the other a 29 gr. I think procedures are the same just adjust powder weight.
22lrreloader.com
22lrreloader.com
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Truth Tellers said:This has me interested now because, while I'd never bother doing it with .22 LR, I would for .22 Mag. It's more powerful than .22 LR, costs more than .22 LR, and with it not being a heeled bullet there's a lot of options out there for 30 to 50 grain projectiles.
https://sharpshooter-22lr-reloader.myshopify.com/products/22mag-22-win-22-wrf-reloader-kit
They also sell a sizing die for the .22 magnum,
There are several on YouTube. I haven't watched them all so I can't say how good or bad most of them are. Of those I have watched, only one has mentioned that the Prime-All compound is probably corrosive, and the company that sells the stuff doesn't mention that on their web site.Are there any good videos of people reloading .22 (or other rimfire calibers) on the internet?
The guy that owns .22LRreloader emailed me, the compound is corrosive. I do not see any way it could not be. You can order the Primal Kit for 20$, just the four part components that come with the kit. They say it will do about 2000 rounds. With a little practice you probably will get close to that.
I don’t want to push off an idea as my own, but the original poster, “AndyC” is on another forum and I can’t give him credit here. Nonetheless, AndyC used a punch to remove the active disk from Paper Caps, the ones we used as kids, though modern caps are not as loud. Once punched out these disks just fit inside a Large Pistol Primer cup.
He removed the anvil, used a brass punch to flatten the firing pin dent, placed 2 paper cap disks in the large primer cup, then placed the anvil back onto the cup.
He relied on primer seating to push the anvil back into position. He then assembled his test 45 ACP ammo using cast 230gr RN projectiles. He also made the same rounds using WIN LPP.
He then ran tests over a chrony, comparing WIN LPP to the Paper Cap LPP.
Average velocity on 230gr cast using Clays: 798.6 FPS for WIN LPP; 773.0 FPS for paper cap primers. There was also an increase in sd from 7.7 to 11.7.
There is also a slight delay in firing between click and bang of about 1/20th second.
And finally, yes, these paper cap primers ARE corrosive.
I’ve got to admit, I’d try it if I ran out of LPP before things return to whatever we will know as “normal”.
He removed the anvil, used a brass punch to flatten the firing pin dent, placed 2 paper cap disks in the large primer cup, then placed the anvil back onto the cup.
He relied on primer seating to push the anvil back into position. He then assembled his test 45 ACP ammo using cast 230gr RN projectiles. He also made the same rounds using WIN LPP.
He then ran tests over a chrony, comparing WIN LPP to the Paper Cap LPP.
Average velocity on 230gr cast using Clays: 798.6 FPS for WIN LPP; 773.0 FPS for paper cap primers. There was also an increase in sd from 7.7 to 11.7.
There is also a slight delay in firing between click and bang of about 1/20th second.
And finally, yes, these paper cap primers ARE corrosive.
I’ve got to admit, I’d try it if I ran out of LPP before things return to whatever we will know as “normal”.