Mild Recoiling Intermediate Calibers?

I might suggest a Ruger SR762

Full power 308, good for any animal in North America up to moose if correct bullets are used.

Good accuracy.

Light recoil. Probably about 1/2 of a M94 30-30
 
But there is a major difference between the 25-06 & 243.


You can shoot 105's (.545 BC) in a 243 at the same speed as a 115 (.418 BC) from a 25-06, (3150 fps). At the muzzle the 25-06 has a slight edge in energy, but the better BC's of the 243 make it a dead tie at 200 yards. Beyond 200 yards the 243 has the edge in both energy and trajectory. The .014" difference in bullet diameter is insignificant.

How is that a major difference?
 
I think you should be looking at a muzzle brake and softer recoil pad for whatever you get.

Another thumbs up for a brake.

My dad shoots a 300 Weatherby. I shot it before he had a brake put on it and it was punishing. He has had shoulder replacements and with the brake it shoots soft enough with so little mussel jump that he can see the blood spray though the scope when hunting elk. Not saying you need a 300 just that a brake tamed it to the point that almost anyone could shoot it.
 
I keep thinking that the muzzle take is a bad idea. If he's buying new, muzzle brakes on low reconciling arms like .308 will be hard to find, and adding one on will cost a fortune.

It will be easier to get a really good recoil pad on the gun, add a past or other pad to his shoulder, and use a caliber/gun combination that will produce minimal recoil.
 
7x57 Mauser is just the ticket….
Very manageable recoil [even compared to the .308]
Accurate and Capable with everything from 140 to 175 grain bullets
Sure game getter out to 300 yards easily

Taken everything from Dik-Dik to Elephant.
 
7x57 Mauser is just the ticket….
I was just reading about it in one of my reload manuals--sounds intriguing with a very interesting history to boot--but I wouldn't go there unless you reload (which I do).
 
Home does that compare to 7-08? Th 7x57 was, iirc turned into the .257 Roberts, its a very good low recoil, but still maybe hard to find, and maybe a little too rough.
 
Given some thought after my commenting earlier the good of 1/4 bore 06 for Elk. Years ago I was introduced to a fellow who resides in Colorado and hunted the same ranch I did that particular Fall. (lucky guy he was related to the ranch owners wife). Having light conversation at a dinner table. As I remember he had a few surgery's on his right shoulder due to a accidental auto mishap years earlier. As told his 2- or 3 surgery's did give him short term relief but his shoulder pain eventually returned. No longer able to have fix it surgerys on his right shoulder. Eventually he found he could shoulder his 300 weatherby but no longer able to shoot it due to its recoil. So in his wanting to keep on hunting he had to find something caliber he could shoot without it bringing on excessive soreness. He settled upon one caliber he found he could shoot without worsting his shoulder pain and yet having enough power too harvest his Elk and Mule deer with. That caliber was the venerable 257 Roberts. Just thought you should know T. O'Heir.
 
If you need a soft recoiling gun, and the intended game is whitetail deer sized game and smaller, look no further than a .243 Winchester. The only people that have trouble killing whitetail deer with a .243 are writers for gun magazines!

If you have to add Elk into the mix, then I would look no further than a 7mm-08. However, the .260 Remington, the 6.5x55mm Swedish Mauser, and the 6.5 mm Creedmoor would also be contenders. If you can hunt elk in your state with a semi-auto, then the 6.5 creedmoor becomes a real player. It's available in AR platforms, and the semi-auto operation should help reduce felt recoil.

If you don't hand-load I would definitely go the .243 route, or 7mm-08 route.
 
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You can shoot 105's (.545 BC) in a 243 at the same speed as a 115 (.418 BC) from a 25-06, (3150 fps). At the muzzle the 25-06 has a slight edge in energy, but the better BC's of the 243 make it a dead tie at 200 yards. Beyond 200 yards the 243 has the edge in both energy and trajectory. The .014" difference in bullet diameter is insignificant.

How is that a major difference?

Well, what you failed to mention is you need a 1:8 twist for that 105 gr bullet. I don't know many rifles that come from the factory with that twist, most have 1:10. That means I wouldn't be shooting a Remington or Winchester, my favorite rifle mfg unless I added a custom barrel.

I own both a .243 and a .25-06, and I like both of them. They're quite similar but for larger game I'll pick the .25-06 over the 6mm every time. Recoil isn't bad at all, I see no reason for a brake with either.
 
The 6.5 Creed is gaining huge admiration for an effective and mild recoiling caliber. Back several years ago when I was looking to step up from 223 people were suggesting the 6.5 Creed for mid to long range target. At that time 6.5 components were hard to come by so I passed and went .308. I've shot several 6.5's and they are a dream to shoot. Flat, fast and mild recoil. My next build will be the 6.5 Creed.
 
25/06 is a great round.

I have 2 of them.

2506s.jpg


The 25/06 has just enough of a pop to be fun but not enough that I get beat up. That is what I like about it. I have a Rem 700 Sendero and a Ruger #1 and frankly I don't shoot them enough. They are just plain fun and don't beat you up like bigger guns. Nice midrange solution.

25-06target.jpg

5 shots 100 yrds, Rem 700 Sendero (Pulled one).

By the way to the OP, I also own 22/250, 30/30's and a 7/08. All are mild middle of the road guns that get the job done if you aim carefully without making a practice session at the range painful.
 
A 25-06 should be fine if you:

a) install a Limbsaver recoil pad on the rifle, and
b) wear an Evoshield or PAST recoil shield on your body while shooting.

Of course, a heavier rifle will recoil less than a lighter one as well; just decide how much weight you are willing to lug around.
 
Try the .25-45 Sharps. It's a AR patterned rifle based on a necked-up .223 round. Runs great with barely more recoil.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1456717821.016452.jpg

Personally, I wouldn't use it for anything larger than deer unless I was pretty close to the target.
 
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There are many many many cartridges that cover the "deer/elk range" for usefulness.

Finding a useful elk gun that doesn't kick slims the list down fast.
That is why I suggest a semi-auto.

Military style rifles usually have threaded muzzles, and many come in 308. So that means you can install a very effective break if you take off the flash hider and make the trade.

A semi-auto 308 kicks about 40% less then a bolt action in the same weight range, or so it feels to me. Put on a good break and you cut that kick down 1/3 again.

The days where 308 Military autos all weighed 12 pounds scoped are now gone. You can get a good one that field ready is about 9.5 Pounds and that is not featherweight, but it's not bad either.

Now if you want a Military/ Police style you can get the FN made FNAR. If you like a more "civilian looking" rifle, look to the Browning BARs.

In fact, I have a friend that has one of each to sell, so if you are interested, PM me and I'll give you his number.

But asking about the cartridge is less important in your case than asking about the rifle.
 
I previously mentioned the .250 Savage, but I also have to post a vote for the 7 X 57 Mauser cartridge. Mine is in a Model 70 Featherweight and it is a ton of fun to reload for.
 
A PTR-91 in .308 offers mild recoil, the weight really helps absorb it. With the HK claw mount, it can be easily scoped. I would go that direction OP.
 
You should consider

Reloading. Factory ammo is ridiculously expensive. My choice is the 260 because brass is a lot cheaper than Creedmoor. A 260 can push 100s to 3200+ in a 22" barrel and you have those wonderful 120-129gr game bullets. You can push a 120 to the same velocity as a .25-06 with much less powder.
 
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