Mega-stuck brass

If it's an RCBS die, send the die and a check (used to be $8) to RCBS in Oroville. (Don't send your storage box, if you want to keep it.)
You'll get your die back in about a week to ten days -- likely with new hardware and decapping stem installed.
And if yours is damaged in any way... you'll get a brand new die.


Redding, Lyman, Hornady, and Forster dies (and sometimes RCBS - depending upon caliber) can sometimes have the decapping stem removed, while unscrewing the expander plug and leaving it inside the case (likely to be damaged later during case removal attempts).
Lee dies usually allow the decapping stem to be loosened and then used to drive the case out.

I don't know what the stuck case fee is for other brands.
I've never stuck one so hard that I couldn't get it back out. And I only used the RCBS service because I bought a bunch of .223 dies from a dimwit owner kept sticking cases (over, and over, and over, buying a new set of dies each time). And then, after he ran out of money, tried filling the dies with solder in order to tap it and remove the cases. ...Didn't work. ;)
 
I haven't stuck a case in ages, but I found if you HEAT the die, use a can of that compressed air stuff up side down and freeze the case they usually come out fairly easily.

I can second Kano Kroil for getting into tight spaces! I use it in the shop and it's almost supernatural the way it creeps into tight places.
Not the cheapest penetrating oil on the market, but I've always got it handy since it works like nothing else I've found.
 
I've stuck LOTS of cases while sizing tens of thousands of bottleneck brass over the years. Get an RCBS stuck case remover and call it an investment. While you're waiting on the RCBS to be delivered, either soak the die/case in penetrating oil or spray same on the die/case to help ease the "stuck".
 
it's drill out the primer pocket, put in a screw and pull. The RCBS Stuck case tool is the same thing.
Click to expand...

The best ones are the home made ones. The best/home mead ones require a 3/8" 11/32" or 5/16" drill and tap. I know, for years it has been 1/4" or nothing.

F. Guffey
 
Get the tool. You will need it again some day - don't ask me how I know.

FC brass is the softest and easier to do that with.

I drilled a case out once, lot of years of machine work dong that, some lucky, tool more better.
 
Well, I've pretty much tried everything except getting a stuck case pulling kit - without success. I guess I'm ordering one, as this is probably not the last time this is going to happen. (It's a Redding die, by the way) I have to admit I feel pretty stupid about not lubing the case....I've been reloading for years and never had this problem. Thanks for all the input.
 
I have to admit I feel pretty stupid

You should not feel stupid at all the only people that NEVER make a mistake NEVER do anything .
 
You should not feel stupid at all the only people that NEVER make a mistake NEVER do anything .
Click to expand...

Yep, any method suggested that works was invented by someone who did these me thing before you did.
 
You've probably learned one of the most important lessons about a sizing die, by now; but it doesn't hurt to reiterate:

If something doesn't feel right, STOP!
 
You've probably learned one of the most important lessons about a sizing die, by now; but it doesn't hurt to reiterate:

If something doesn't feel right, STOP!
Click to expand...

True, but by the time the reloader knows something is wrong, it is too late because reversing the direction of the ram does not guarantee the stuck case is going to follow the ram; meaning by the time the reloaders recognizes there is a problem it is too late.

And then there is lube; most of what I do can be done with any-ol-lube; and then there are dies that are not what they seem, I have two sets of RCBS 30/06 dies that will keep every case that is stuck into them. I have no infatuation with small base dies but the two sets of RCBS 30/06 dies are 'SMALL BASE DIES!'. In my little short life I have found 4 sets of 30/06 dies that are this small. I know, reloaders believe small base dies are cute but careful about what you wish for.

I know, I am hearing it more often, ballooned case bodies etc. I prefer the case forming die. The case forming die is designed to whip those machine gun fired cases into shape.

And then there is the shell holder, the deck height of the shell holder prevents the die from forming the base of the case.

F. Guffey
 
You could also send your Redding die with the stuck to case to Redding. They have a stuck case removal and inspection service. Their kit cost around $25.

If all else fails and you have a stuck case without a means to properly remove it, Redding offers one free stuck case removal with the direct purchase of the Stuck Case Removal Kit (Redding P/N 22000). Send the die, along with a check or money order for

$ 30.00 to:
Redding Reloading / Stuck Case Service
1089 Starr Road
Cortland , NY 13045

Be sure to include your return address and telephone number. Your die will have the stuck case removed, be dimensionally inspected be re-polished and ultrasonically cleaned as new. It will be returned to you with your Stuck Case Removal Kit and a free sample of Imperial Sizing Die Wax, postage paid.
 
And then there is: "Do I want to remove the case without twisting/turning it or do I want to turn/twist it when I remove it". I prefer to pull the case without twisting/turning it.

F. Guffey
 
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