I have been wanting to buy a Mauser complete action with bolt for a while now to convert to a modern sporting rifle. I want one that hasn't been modified at all but is in good shape (No pitting etc.). Is there anyone who has experience with this and can give me some things to look for and maybe some things to stay away from? Also if I do not buy a new action, what would be the best country of origin for manufacture. Is one better than another, say German over Yugoslavian, Austrian etc.. Is one more desirable than another?
Mauser 98 Conversion
- Thread starter SAGW
- Start date
mapsjanhere
New member
First, modern sporting rifle implies scoped rifle, and that's a pain with an unmodified 98 action. The Mauser action requires a 90 degree opening, and even with a bent bolt action from a 98k that interferes with most scope mounts. Ditto for the safety, you need a rather high mount to clear. And whatever "originality" was left gets destroyed by drilling for the mount.
I would look for a sporterized Mauser to start with, they are typically cheaper than "clean" actions, and often have the features you're looking for.
Then there's the whole slew of 98-based civilian actions that typically are set up for scope mount, FN/Browning made a lot of nice ones after the war, there's also some more affordable ones made in Spain.
I would look for a sporterized Mauser to start with, they are typically cheaper than "clean" actions, and often have the features you're looking for.
Then there's the whole slew of 98-based civilian actions that typically are set up for scope mount, FN/Browning made a lot of nice ones after the war, there's also some more affordable ones made in Spain.
Yugo rifles are 98 pattern, but with a slightly shorter action length. If you are wanting to shop for an off the shelf semi-inletted stock, you will probably have more options with a German, Turkish, Czech or commercial FN.
Military actions also have a hump on the rear of the bridge that can make scope mounting difficult.
Hoosier Gun works has a pretty good overview of the different variations here:
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/mauser_reference.html
Actually, looking at what they list for sale, the "Mauser 1917 Amberg Complete action" may be exactly what you are looking for.
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/actions.html
Military actions also have a hump on the rear of the bridge that can make scope mounting difficult.
Hoosier Gun works has a pretty good overview of the different variations here:
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/mauser_reference.html
Actually, looking at what they list for sale, the "Mauser 1917 Amberg Complete action" may be exactly what you are looking for.
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/actions.html
End result plans and choice of calibers matter, for example, building an "old school" tradional or classic style sporter with open sights and chambered for 257 Roberts is a piece of cake.
I like the BRNO and DWM actionss; FN is also sought out for customs, but really just about all the 98 actions built in the years leading right up to WWII were good.
Some light pitting under the wood doesn't hurt integrity, and can't be seen. Mismatched bolts that are to be modified and headspaced later don't matter either. Perfect actions, all numbers matching will command the highest price.
PM me, I may be able to hook you up with something depending on your goal.
I like the BRNO and DWM actionss; FN is also sought out for customs, but really just about all the 98 actions built in the years leading right up to WWII were good.
Some light pitting under the wood doesn't hurt integrity, and can't be seen. Mismatched bolts that are to be modified and headspaced later don't matter either. Perfect actions, all numbers matching will command the highest price.
PM me, I may be able to hook you up with something depending on your goal.
The easy button for the bolt is to stick with the same size case head as the original, that gives you a bunch of options without modifying the bolt face.
Using the cheat sheet, the RCBS shellholder, these are the choices.
.22-250 Remington
.240 Weatherby Magnum
.243 Winchester
.243 Winchester
6mm Remington (.244 Remington)
.25/06
.250 Savage (.250-3000)
.257 Roberts
.257 Roberts Improved
.260 Remington
6.5mm-06
6.5 x 57mm Mauser
.270 Winchester
.280 Remington (7mm Express Remington)
.284 Winchester
.7mm Benchrest Remington
. 7mm-08 Remington
7x57mm Mauser
7 x 64mm Brenneke
.30-06 Springfield
.300 Savage
308 Winchester
7.65mm x 53 Belgian Mauser
8mm-06
8x57mm Mauser
.35 Whelen
.358 Winchester
9.3mm x 62 Mauser
.38 Casull
.400 CorBon
.45 Automatic (ACP)
450 Bushmaster
All those will fit a standard K98 8mm Mauser bolt face without modification. When you chamber the barrel, you headspace it against the existing bolt.
Using the cheat sheet, the RCBS shellholder, these are the choices.
.22-250 Remington
.240 Weatherby Magnum
.243 Winchester
.243 Winchester
6mm Remington (.244 Remington)
.25/06
.250 Savage (.250-3000)
.257 Roberts
.257 Roberts Improved
.260 Remington
6.5mm-06
6.5 x 57mm Mauser
.270 Winchester
.280 Remington (7mm Express Remington)
.284 Winchester
.7mm Benchrest Remington
. 7mm-08 Remington
7x57mm Mauser
7 x 64mm Brenneke
.30-06 Springfield
.300 Savage
308 Winchester
7.65mm x 53 Belgian Mauser
8mm-06
8x57mm Mauser
.35 Whelen
.358 Winchester
9.3mm x 62 Mauser
.38 Casull
.400 CorBon
.45 Automatic (ACP)
450 Bushmaster
All those will fit a standard K98 8mm Mauser bolt face without modification. When you chamber the barrel, you headspace it against the existing bolt.
With regard to the bolt...
You can leave it alone, and use open sights or a forward mount scout scope, or...
You can replace it.
If you don't replace it, or use it as is,
you can have the handle reforged to clear a scope, or
you can have the handle cut off, and a new one welded on that will clear a scope.
If you reforge the handle, it will most likely seem ridiculously short. Turning down the knob, threading and installing a tactical style knob with add some length.
Buying a sporter bolt with a handle already turned down is the easy button, but you're likely to spend some time shopping.
You can leave it alone, and use open sights or a forward mount scout scope, or...
You can replace it.
If you don't replace it, or use it as is,
you can have the handle reforged to clear a scope, or
you can have the handle cut off, and a new one welded on that will clear a scope.
If you reforge the handle, it will most likely seem ridiculously short. Turning down the knob, threading and installing a tactical style knob with add some length.
Buying a sporter bolt with a handle already turned down is the easy button, but you're likely to spend some time shopping.
Of course, as mentioned, starting with a commercial action is the easiest, but may eliminate some things you want to learn.
Of the list above, I don't reccommend a beginner try the 284 win. It does indeed have a rim size that will work, but it's a rebated rim style case that needs extra attention to make it feed properly from the magazine.
Of the list above, I don't reccommend a beginner try the 284 win. It does indeed have a rim size that will work, but it's a rebated rim style case that needs extra attention to make it feed properly from the magazine.
"... I want to do all the modifications myself."
I don't want to seem negative, but do you have the equipment, tools, and experience to do the modifications you want done properly? If you just want a gun to practice on, why not buy a junker and not tear up a nice rifle? After you gain experience, you can start with a better rifle and build a nice sporter.
Jim
I don't want to seem negative, but do you have the equipment, tools, and experience to do the modifications you want done properly? If you just want a gun to practice on, why not buy a junker and not tear up a nice rifle? After you gain experience, you can start with a better rifle and build a nice sporter.
Jim
Jim Watson
New member
There are untold thousands of sweat shop "sporterized" Mausers in closets.
The military handguards were discarded and the foreends cut short. Barrels were occasionally shortened but even then the barleycorn sights were reinstalled and the open rear sights left alone. The actions were not altered. You ought to be able to get one of these cheaply to learn on.
The military handguards were discarded and the foreends cut short. Barrels were occasionally shortened but even then the barleycorn sights were reinstalled and the open rear sights left alone. The actions were not altered. You ought to be able to get one of these cheaply to learn on.
Back in the 1960s and 1970s 98s were dirt cheap and many of us cut them down, cut them up, modified them in all manner to end up with a rifle not as good as a factory Remington or Winchester.
Now unmodified 98s are worth too much to butcher.
Yes, start with one already modified. Value is gone. But you wtill wind up with a rifle that's not as good as a decent factory offering unless you go full bore custom by good smith. Do it yourself as a novice rifle maker and you wind up with nothing to brag about.
If the objective is doing the work then buy a cut up 98 and go to town. If the goal is nice rifle then buy one made the way you want it.
Another option might be a commercial 98. Since the 1950s many companies made or imported commercial grade 98s that are much more refined than the old military Mauser. Make much better sporting rifles.
This started at a commercial CZ action with dual triggers. I stocked it in walnut in classic European style including steel butt plate, barrel mounted front swivel, and hooded front sight. It came drilled and tapped but I opted for a receiver sight rather than a scope. Added a 30-06 barrel from McMillan and the finished product is a quality sporting Mauser that was faster, easier and cheaper than starting with a military model and collectors aren't screaming for my head.
Compare the above rifle to this one I did a few years ago. It started as a Colombian Model 98 that was in terrible shape so no collector would howl. Stocked, updated, refinished, it just doesn't look as refined as the CZ pictured above.
Now this 1924 Mexican Mauser was also in horrible shape when I got it. In fact, it was just an action. No wood or barrel. Gave it to a good smith and he made this. But it wasn't cheap and it still isn't as sophisticated looking as the commercial model.
So again, if what you want is nice rifle when you're done, I suggest starting with a commercial gun. If what you want is the experience of reworking the rifle, then find a beater and have at it.
By the way, this is what a European smith did with a military 98 back in the late 1940s and 1950s.
.
Now unmodified 98s are worth too much to butcher.
Yes, start with one already modified. Value is gone. But you wtill wind up with a rifle that's not as good as a decent factory offering unless you go full bore custom by good smith. Do it yourself as a novice rifle maker and you wind up with nothing to brag about.
If the objective is doing the work then buy a cut up 98 and go to town. If the goal is nice rifle then buy one made the way you want it.
Another option might be a commercial 98. Since the 1950s many companies made or imported commercial grade 98s that are much more refined than the old military Mauser. Make much better sporting rifles.
This started at a commercial CZ action with dual triggers. I stocked it in walnut in classic European style including steel butt plate, barrel mounted front swivel, and hooded front sight. It came drilled and tapped but I opted for a receiver sight rather than a scope. Added a 30-06 barrel from McMillan and the finished product is a quality sporting Mauser that was faster, easier and cheaper than starting with a military model and collectors aren't screaming for my head.
Compare the above rifle to this one I did a few years ago. It started as a Colombian Model 98 that was in terrible shape so no collector would howl. Stocked, updated, refinished, it just doesn't look as refined as the CZ pictured above.
Now this 1924 Mexican Mauser was also in horrible shape when I got it. In fact, it was just an action. No wood or barrel. Gave it to a good smith and he made this. But it wasn't cheap and it still isn't as sophisticated looking as the commercial model.
So again, if what you want is nice rifle when you're done, I suggest starting with a commercial gun. If what you want is the experience of reworking the rifle, then find a beater and have at it.
By the way, this is what a European smith did with a military 98 back in the late 1940s and 1950s.
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FrankenMauser
New member
Best option right now, if you don't know what to look for in old, tired, beaten, battered, abused, and recycled surplus actions:
Virgin Dumoulin-made commercial Mauser actions from Sarco.
It looks like they raised the price by $50, but I'd still pay the $349 asking price. I think it's worth it.
I'm building a new .270 Win on one of those actions (and want three more). Several other members are currently, or have previously worked with them as well:
Dumoulin thread on TFL.
If you just want "cheap" ... cruise the local pawn shops and gun shops. There are bound to be a few nasty "sporters" in the racks.
Virgin Dumoulin-made commercial Mauser actions from Sarco.
It looks like they raised the price by $50, but I'd still pay the $349 asking price. I think it's worth it.
I'm building a new .270 Win on one of those actions (and want three more). Several other members are currently, or have previously worked with them as well:
Dumoulin thread on TFL.
If you just want "cheap" ... cruise the local pawn shops and gun shops. There are bound to be a few nasty "sporters" in the racks.
Any reason you want a Mauser?
If it was me, I would hit the local gun and pawn shops, plus armslist and see if I could find a used/tired Winchester M70 or Remington 700 long action, or even hit Wal Mart and see how much a 700 ADL is going for.
The only thing you get with a Mauser is extra work milling down the hump and drilling some holes. You are going to scrap the rest anyway, right?
If it was me, I would hit the local gun and pawn shops, plus armslist and see if I could find a used/tired Winchester M70 or Remington 700 long action, or even hit Wal Mart and see how much a 700 ADL is going for.
The only thing you get with a Mauser is extra work milling down the hump and drilling some holes. You are going to scrap the rest anyway, right?
The reason I have wanted a Mauser is that I am told they are one of the best actions ever made. That being said, I know the Remington 700 actions are also very good. I am still toying with the idea with building one of those as well. The new Remington actions I have found are a little more to a lot more pricey than the Mauser ones.
I would go with a Mauser WAY before I would build on a Remington.
I have been gunsmithing now for 48 years. If I look at the one rifle I have had to make more repairs on than any other, (in fact more then all others combined) it's the Remington M700.
Mausers on the other hand never need to be repaired unless someone tries to work on one and doesn't do it right.
Even today, if price in no object and you can go to the top makers in the world (mostly in Great Britain, Belgium and Germany) and order their highest quality bolt action hunting rifle, the best you can get at any cost, you will get one from them with a Mauser action about 19 times out of 20.
In all sincerity a controlled feed Winchester M-70 is as good, but such an action will cost you far more then a good 98 Mauser in most cases.
I have made a LOT of rifles on the 98. I love them.
I have been gunsmithing now for 48 years. If I look at the one rifle I have had to make more repairs on than any other, (in fact more then all others combined) it's the Remington M700.
Mausers on the other hand never need to be repaired unless someone tries to work on one and doesn't do it right.
Even today, if price in no object and you can go to the top makers in the world (mostly in Great Britain, Belgium and Germany) and order their highest quality bolt action hunting rifle, the best you can get at any cost, you will get one from them with a Mauser action about 19 times out of 20.
In all sincerity a controlled feed Winchester M-70 is as good, but such an action will cost you far more then a good 98 Mauser in most cases.
I have made a LOT of rifles on the 98. I love them.
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